The Alpine situates a European-style beer cabin in a location with a long and storied history as a string of dive bars and diners.
The name is a homage to The Alps, the original diner in this spot that opened in 1934.
Most recently home to Celts, the space has been completely remodelled, scuzzy carpeting torn out and replaced with hardwood, angled lines bringing in the Alpine theme, gold line artwork by a local tattoo artist decorating the back wall.
The only thing that remains are original refurbished brass taps. Seating is bulky but comfortable, with lots of private nooks, booths, and larger tables that could easily seat six or so.
Steamed mussels ($14) are cooked with thyme, garlic, lemon, chorizo, and a custom Alpine Hefeweizen by local brewer People’s Pint. Though they’re served with bread, there’s not a ton of broth to soak up, the chorizo doing a nice job of that, but the flavours are comforting and true to bistro fare.
The vegetarian burger ($16) could possibly be renamed “The Slap Leather Special,” as it’s essentially a Big Mac falafel with a side of fries.
The chickpea patty is so tasty with traditional-leaning accompaniments of dill tahini sauce plus pickled zucchini and onion that it almost feels like it could just be served as a falafel wrap, though if you’re looking for a gluten-free bun, this sandwich comes on one.
Steak frites ($23) pairs the same house fries with a 10-ounce striploin, served with peppercorn gravy and a beefsteak onion ring, as well as sauteed mushrooms for a $2 upcharge.
It comes with two kinds of house sausage, two kinds of potato salad, pork schnitzel, rum and cola braised brisket, slaw, roasted brussel sprouts, a pretzel, fiery house hot sauce, mustard, and cheddar dip.
There’s both a rosemary garlic and spicy fennel house sausage. A Welsh Rarebit cheddar dip made with People’s Pint’s custom Alpine Dunkelweizen goes incredibly with everything, bringing lots of cheesy beer flavour with a nice melty consistency.
Grainy mustard is a suitable accompaniment for everything as well, going nicely with the same pretzel that accompanies the Welsh Rarebit when ordered on its own.
There’s both a creamy and a vinegary redskin potato salad on the board.
Roasted brussel sprouts have a nicely caramelized, sweet flavour.
Along with the custom Weizen beers, there are also options from breweries like Whitby’s Little Beasts.
Find live music and brunch at the Alpine as well. Beloved local comfort food whiz Marta Kusel (Cardinal Rule) is responsible for the menu.