Boru
Boru is bringing the heat to King West as a new Japanese-inspired hamburger steak —or hambagu — restaurant in Toronto.
The concept itself is deceptively simple: a juicy ground beef patty served over a bowl of fluffy, perfectly steamed rice — don't expect to find any buns here.
A comfort-food staple across Japan, hambagu has become something of a social media craze, and I'm happy to report it has finally made its way to Toronto.
A modern grill house, Boru specializes in live-fire cooking, premium beef blends, house-made sauces and traditional sides. Its name translates to "ball" in Japanese, a fitting nod to the hand-rolled hambagu patties at the centre of the menu.
The signature offering is the Fresh Ground Hamburger Steak set, priced at $30 for two servings or $35 for three. Each comes with a silky onsen egg, plus unlimited beef miso soup and rice, making for a well-portioned meal at a reasonable price.
Ground in-house every morning, the hamburger steaks combine Australian Wagyu with Canadian AAA beef.
Each portion is rolled, seasoned, and placed over the charcoal grill, which, one could argue, is just as important as the beef itself.
"Binchotan is a special charcoal imported from Japan," says manager Kenny Cheung. "We blend it with bamboo charcoal, and together they can reach a higher and more consistent cooking temperature than with conventional charcoal."
It's also prized for burning clean and virtually odourless, allowing the flavour of the meat to shine through. Tender, rich and deeply savoury, each patty develops a crisp, deeply browned crust over the charcoal.
Beyond the cook of the hamburger steak, the rest of the meal is left to guests to mix and match, though pairing it with the onsen egg is best practice.
Slow-cooked at a low temperature, the egg has a creamy, custardy consistency that makes even the jammiest yolk seem firm by comparison.
For sauces and seasonings, there's everything from ponzu and chili oil to furikake and freshly grated turnip.
"There's no standard way to eat the set. For me, I like the ponzu mixed in with the rice the most, but it's all really personal," says Cheung.
Side dishes include punchy fresh kimchi ($8), miso cucumber ($6) and sansho pepper cabbage ($6). Of the three, the house-made kimchi was my favourite.
Then there's the space itself. The roughly 40-seat room is arranged around the open kitchen, with communal counter seating promising every guest a front-row view of the grill.
Moody black walls and industrial steel appliances set a modern, minimalist tone, softened by warm wood finishes.
The room and menu feel designed in tandem, with each hambagu arriving hot from the grill just as diners finish the last.
Boru is located at 495 Adelaide St W.
Fareen Karim