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What Roncesvalles Avenue used to look like

Posted by Derek Flack / July 26, 2012

Roncesvalles Avenue HistoryApproaching Toronto from the southwest about a century ago, Roncesvalles Avenue would have been the first well developed north/south strip that one encountered. Despite the expansion and intensification that's taken place in the years that have intervened, the street has somehow managed to retain the feeling of a main drag, like the kind that you find in small towns all across North America.

Bearing in mind that the city of Toronto came to be through a series of annexations of surrounding villages — in this particular case, Brockton and Parkdale — drag-like qualities of this type make perfect sense. Some of our streets really were the primary strips of smaller towns that were eventually subsumed by the big city.

Roncesvalles probably also owes some of this remaining vibe to the fact that it was once a major transportation hub and the entrance point to the city's most popular summer destination, Sunnyside Amusement Park. This was, at a certain point in time, the beginning and end of this side of the city, where people departed for suburbs like New Toronto and Port Credit on the old commuter streetcars or came to get away from the hustle and bustle of downtown.

Moving northward, photos from the 1910s show that the area around the Revue Cinema near Howard Park was much the same as it is today: lined with small businesses and eateries that serviced the residential community that surrounds the street. Many of these buildings still exist, though the Revue is one of the few businesses that has managed survive the long haul (temporary closure aside).

Other landmarks worth noting from the photos below are the long lost Sunnyside GTR station, the old bus terminal (now a McDonald's) at the foot of the street, the Edgewater Hotel (now a plastered-over Day's Inn), the High Park Library (which has aged very well) and the gates to High Park Avenue, which offer a formal introduction to a street that once had a decidedly suburban feel, as Rick McGinnis eloquently points out in a previous post about the area. And don't forget the streetcars. Thanks partially to the presence of the Roncesvalles car house at the bottom of the street, these vehicles are a fixture in the images below.

Although the Polish presence on the street isn't as obvious as it used to be, there's still plenty evidence of the community today, be it through the annual festival or the handful of businesses that still line the street. Alas, this particular aspect of Roncesvalles' history is not as well documented photographically (at least in terms of publicly available images), and so exists as a bit of hole in the collection below.

PHOTOS

Roncesvalles Avenue HistoryLooking south towards Queen in 1909 (Ocean House Hotel in the distance)

Roncesvalles Avenue HistoryGoad's Atlas, featuring Roncesvalles and Parkdale, 1910

Roncesvalles Avenue HistoryRoncesvalles and Dundas, 1910

Roncesvalles Avenue History276-280 Roncesvalles, 1910

Roncesvalles Avenue HistoryRoncesvalles and High Park, 1914

Roncesvalles Avenue HistoryThe lay of the land in 1914 (note that Queen ends just beyond Roncesvalles)

Roncesvalles Avenue HistorySunnyside GTR station, 1915

Roncesvalles Avenue HistoryThe old Sunnyside bridge, 1915

Roncesvalles Avenue History92 Roncesvalles, 1916

Roncesvalles Avenue History228 Roncesvalles, 1917

Roncesvalles Avenue HistoryTrack work in 1919

Roncesvalles Avenue HistorySouth of Howard Park, 1919

Roncesvalles Avenue HistoryQueen, King and Roncesvalles in 1920

Roncesvalles Avenue HistoryTrack work at the foot of Roncesvalles, 1920s

Roncesvalles Avenue HistoryQueen, King and Roncesvalles in 1923

Roncesvalles Avenue HistoryRoncesvalles car house, April 1923 (pre-demolition)

Roncesvalles Avenue HistoryNow that's track work (1923)!

Roncesvalles Avenue HistoryQueen, King and Roncesvalles, 1920s

Roncesvalles Avenue HistoryNew car house under construction, June 1923

Roncesvalles Avenue HistoryThe Revue Cinema in 1935

Roncesvalles Avenue HistoryAerial view, 1937

Roncesvalles Avenue HistoryQueen, King and Roncesvalles, 1939

Roncesvalles Avenue HistorySunnyside, 1949

Roncesvalles Avenue HistoryEdgewater Hotel, 1950s

Roncesvalles Avenue HistoryLooking east along Fermanagh from Roncesvalles, 1959

Roncesvalles Avenue HistoryLooking west along Constance, 1959

Roncesvalles Avenue HistoryLooking west along Galley, 1959

Roncesvalles Avenue HistoryLooking east along Garden, 1959

Roncesvalles Avenue HistoryLooking west, 1959

Roncesvalles Avenue HistoryLooking west along High Park Boulevard, 1959

Roncesvalles Avenue HistoryLooking east along Geoffrey, 1959

Roncesvalles HistoryLooking east on Westminster, 1959 (check out the comments section for a cool tidbit on the garage to the left)

Roncesvalles Avenue HistoryEdgewater Hotel, 1960s

Roncesvalles Avenue HistoryEdgewater Hotel, 1970s

Roncesvalles Avenue HistoryRoncesvalles at Howard Park, 1970s via Chuckman's blog.

Roncesvalles Avenue HistoryQueen, King and Roncesvalles, 1971 via lindsaybridge.

Roncesvalles Avenue HistoryPCC streetcars at Queen, King and Roncesvalles in 1976 via Lou Gerard

Roncesvalles Avenue HistorySunnyside loop, 1980 via Lou Gerard

Roncesvalles Avenue History429 Roncesvalles, 1983 (a Joy Oil Station) via Patrick Cummins

Roncesvalles Avenue HistoryLooking south towards the foot of Roncesvalles in 1992 via David Wilson

Roncesvalles Avenue HistoryThe corner of Queen, King and Roncesvalles in 1992 via David Wilson

Roncesvalles Avenue HistoryThe Ace in 1998 via Patrick Cummins

Photos from the Toronto Archives unless otherwise noted

Discussion

49 Comments

Phil / July 26, 2012 at 03:54 pm
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Another fantastic post with priceless photos.
McRib / July 26, 2012 at 04:11 pm
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my dad stayed at the Edgewater Hotel for a night when he first came to Canada and was looking for a job.

"There's my old hotel."

he never failed to mention this to me whenever we drove past.

i miss living near Roncy
matts / July 26, 2012 at 04:14 pm
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Thanks - this is great
Rob / July 26, 2012 at 04:24 pm
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Do I see a dedicated streetcar lane in the 1971 photo? Can't be....
Cliff S / July 26, 2012 at 04:30 pm
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"Drive as well as you say you do." Great billboard.
pz / July 26, 2012 at 04:34 pm
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Zajebiste!!

Thx for posting, these are great.
W. K. Lis / July 26, 2012 at 04:38 pm
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The 1937 aerial view shows the minor Queen Street West connecting with Indian Road before ending at Parkside Drive.
K / July 26, 2012 at 05:01 pm
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I think I'm in love with Derek Flack.
Ratpick / July 26, 2012 at 05:19 pm
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I'm not really sure what the first two paragraphs are trying to get at, but to be clear -- Roncesvalles is very much a planned subdivision, NOT an old town like Parkdale. There are a few older 19th-century farmhouses here and there, but most streets are early 20th-century, tract houses.

There's a photo of Westminster Ave in the archives, one of the '59 set, where you can see a garage with No Parking in Driveway in deco letters on the door. The current owner still goes out there regularly and re-letters the door every time a "graffiti artist" defaces it. Great stuff.

Greg replying to a comment from Ratpick / July 26, 2012 at 05:37 pm
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The fact that intensification has taken place around certain streets actually does have to do with the old layout of Toronto and surrounding areas. And the area around Roncesvalles Avenue was annexed in the late 1890s, but as part of Brockton and Parkdale. The strip/drag qualities, if they exist, would be a product of the early 20th century not the barns that Ratpick refers to.
iSkyscraper / July 26, 2012 at 06:09 pm
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Goddamn Toronto for removing those cobblestones between the tracks. Would add so much character if they remained (even if in fake stamped-concrete form).

If the intersection still had cobblestones, it would remind me very much of the similarly shaped intersection of 9th Ave, 14th St and Hudson St in Manhattan. Both cases are on the edge of residential, old industry and new nightlife - a great spot to hang out at any time.
DV / July 26, 2012 at 06:43 pm
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I think Roncy does have that small town strip feel, but mostly because it's the only major commercial street that runs north/south before like Royal York, and even that's not really the same type of street.
m, / July 26, 2012 at 07:13 pm
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wow
Dude from the Place / July 26, 2012 at 07:18 pm
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Great series of pics. Two comments:

Love the '276-280 Roncesvalles, 1910' one, could have almost been done this year. Those houses look so beautiful.

Same pic from the 70s as "drive as well as you say you do": gas at 21c a litre.
McKingford / July 26, 2012 at 07:48 pm
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So the junction of Queen, King and Roncy was torn up for track work in 1920, and either again - or continuously until, 1923. The St. Clair "disaster" has nothing on that!
belvedere / July 26, 2012 at 09:46 pm
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where's w.k. lis on this excellent post? well done derek.
belvedere replying to a comment from belvedere / July 26, 2012 at 09:46 pm
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oops...missed it...
Adam Sobolak / July 26, 2012 at 09:53 pm
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God bless the commenter who raised the Westminster "No Parking On Driveway" garage. That's truly one of Toronto's unsung landmarks (and my grandparents lived on Westminster, so it's part of my life, too).

Oh, and if you squint at the 60s photo looking north on Roncy to the Edgewater, you'll notice a BMW billboard in the background (foretelling future yuppie demographics?)
Derek Flack replying to a comment from Ratpick / July 26, 2012 at 10:40 pm
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Delighted to hear about that garage. I've added the photo to the '59 ones above, and here's a Street View image of what it looks like today. Thanks for sharing that!

http://bit.ly/NLKQYD
B. Ross Ashley / July 26, 2012 at 11:07 pm
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No pictures of the Windsor House at 320 Roncesvalles? We lived there for 5 years in the '90s.
Brent / July 26, 2012 at 11:57 pm
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What a delightfully yawn-inducing post.

This sedative is more effective than if you had slipped it into my drink.
ChefAldea / July 27, 2012 at 01:52 am
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I moved to Roncy about 5 months ago from Little Portugal. I absolutely love this part of T.O. Having grown up in The Annex, I can really appreciate this community. I hope to stay here for years to come. Thanks for the photos and article.

Cheers!
gryffe / July 27, 2012 at 07:07 am
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shows that the stupid track work is nothing new, and that the streetcars belong firmly in the last century!
Rena / July 27, 2012 at 07:41 am
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Wow, I lived in Roncy from 1988-2007 and I have never seen anything like this! So awesome
W. K. Lis / July 27, 2012 at 10:14 am
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The Western Waterfront Master Plan, see http://www.toronto.ca/waterfront/wwmp.htm for downloads, was to include an new wider pedestrian & bicycle bridge to replace the current narrow pedestrian bridge. The key word is "was".
Fig / July 27, 2012 at 10:38 am
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Another great post Derek!
The Duke of Earl / July 27, 2012 at 10:38 am
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I'll bet the streetcar track reconstruction in the 1920s was more efficient and competent than in 2008-2010. Special thanks to Gord Perks and Adam Giambrone for destroying our street for 3 years.
loveit / July 27, 2012 at 10:45 am
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kickass post derek, keep them coming!
RG / July 27, 2012 at 11:03 am
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Where oh where is Ruth Frocks?
Ratpick replying to a comment from The Duke of Earl / July 27, 2012 at 11:48 am
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More like 2 years, really, which is still too slow.

To say the street came roaring back to life would be an understatement. Maybe let that grudge go.
Michael / July 27, 2012 at 11:48 am
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Why does 1992 look so damn old? I was a teen in 1992!!!!
Teresa replying to a comment from Dude from the Place / July 27, 2012 at 11:52 am
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Wouldn't that be per gallon? We didn't switch to metric until much later.
The Duke of Earl replying to a comment from Ratpick / July 27, 2012 at 12:08 pm
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It was more than 2 years, but I'll settle at 2 1/2. There were at least five formerly thriving businesses (off the top of my head) that shut down during the Roncy recon debacle. I know one went to Gord Perks for help and was blown off. No way I'm going to let that grudge go if only to warn other communities not to let hippy city councillors turn your commercial street into a nightmare. The reconstructed Roncy is a dangerous tangle of sloping pavement, semi bike lanes and half-assed streetcar platforms. Somebody's going to get killed.

On a positive note, this was a great photo feature. Excellent work.
so and so / July 27, 2012 at 12:53 pm
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Yes ! I agree with Duke of Earl ... Roncesvalles looks now like a nightmare. Shame what they have done to a previously quite a nice and pretty street.
Lisa / July 27, 2012 at 02:06 pm
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I remember the Ace Grill. In the 60's when my girlfriend & I would be going to Parkdale Collegiate, we would stop off at the Ace grill & get an egg roll & chips with gravy & of course a coke. It was awesome. Lisa
We just lived around the corner!
Tommy replying to a comment from Michael / July 27, 2012 at 03:05 pm
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All of Toronto looks old if you take pictures in the fall.
Mike Hussey replying to a comment from Michael / July 30, 2012 at 09:37 am
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Why do the pix from the '60s look so damn old - I was a teen then!
glenn storey / July 30, 2012 at 06:12 pm
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dear sweet jeebus, i hate the term "roncy".
Stan / August 3, 2012 at 04:46 pm
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Anyone got pics of Sorauren Ave from back in the day?
Caroline / August 4, 2012 at 04:46 pm
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Thanks for the pics, this is where I grew up. Ruth Frocks was on the south east corner of Queen/King.
Ariel / August 7, 2012 at 10:29 am
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Imagine having to walk down the hill from the Sunnyside station to catch your train :P

Does anyone have photos of the Cinema at the corner of Galley/Roncesvalles? Besides the Revue, no one ever talks about this old cinema :( It even still has it's marquee lighting!
Elizabeth Kaminski / September 4, 2012 at 10:10 am
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Having a great time looking at the different times when Roncesvalles was old remembering all the good times I had when I lived there growing up. I lived at 195 Wright Ave.
Joel Eves / September 4, 2012 at 02:04 pm
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Great seeing these Roncesvalles pictures. I've lived in the neighbourhood since 1954, and remember some of the long-gone businesses in my immediate area: Peel's Drug Store, The Ace Grill (already mentioned), Sunset Smoke Shop, The Guest Hardware, Sheppard's Appliances (where I would pick up my weekly CHUM chart), Kresge's, Lean's Drugs... Only thing the same in that strip is the Bank of Commerce. Oh yes, and the Ace (same decor, new management and menu).
Simon / January 30, 2013 at 02:45 pm
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Just seeing this now, and it's fascinating. Easily one of my favourite neighbourhoods in this city.
Ezio replying to a comment from Ariel / February 12, 2013 at 12:33 pm
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I remember going to the Brighton when I was in my early teens to watch The Rocky Horror Picture Show.
Lina / February 15, 2013 at 12:11 pm
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I live on Roncy; been there for 8 years now. These are such lovely pics.
Judy / February 22, 2013 at 03:03 pm
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My ancestors the Hawthorne family used to have an ice cream parlour on Roncesvalle Avenue by Sunnyside. I have two old black and white photo's of the inside of the parlour.
Brandy / March 19, 2013 at 03:16 pm
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Thank you Derek for taking the time and energy to put together a wonderful historical tribute to Roncesvalles Village. We need more people like you.
debbie replying to a comment from Elizabeth Kaminski / March 22, 2013 at 12:55 pm
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i grew up on wright ave back in the 60's and 70's and went to argentina ps.
love the pics posted

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