Ten Restaurant serves spontaneous, seasonal 10-course tasting menus to just 10 guests at a time.
Food is artistic, experimental, waste-conscious, and emphasizes produce and seafood, each course paired with a typically organic or biodynamic wine.
The 1,200-square-foot former apartment and Brandon Olsen store architecturally designed by Lloyd London is now divided into a front lounge and the back 10-seat Chef’s Counter area.
An entire professional kitchen has been transplanted into the fully accessible space.
There's no menu per se, seeing as it changes almost nightly, though there is a drinks list.
Simply choose between a five-course tasting menu ($65) or a ten-course tasting menu ($115) and let the experience begin. An alcohol pairing with the meal is $55, or you can opt for wine by the glass or bottle, beer, cocktails or mocktails.
Sri Lankan strawberry grouper is long line caught, marinated in a Thai vinaigrette of fish sauce, cold pressed canola oil, lime and scallion.
Torched at the counter, it's plated with pickled cucumber, mustard flower and a nuanced cucumber skin broth.
This might be paired with a glass of local Tawse bottle fermented cider, or opt to start with a cocktail like the Celery Collins ($14), celery-forward with Ford's Gin, lemon and soda.
Pumpkin is roasted, and has the skin removed before basting in brown butter. Plated with a cashew puree, pickled butternut squash and snappy, crunchy pumpkin seeds, the warm, rich, buttery flavours of the starchy veg play nicely against a fragrant rosemary oil.
This is paired with a glass of Kellerei, a Pinot Bianco from a region of north Italy between Austria and Germany.
A bread course is simply a slice of sweet, crispy, naturally leavened house sourdough brioche, made using a three-year-old starter and lots of butter, eggs and sugar, accompanied by a subtle carrot butter and a few tiny tatters of carrot greens.
A mushroom white bean dish is arguably the climax of this five-course meal, white beans cooked with lemon peels and combined with sauteed yellowfoot chanterelles, chives and garlic deglazed with sherry.
Additional butter and water create a kind of earthy sherry sauce soaked up by the beans and spongy mushrooms, the plate finished off with toasted raw buckwheat, nasturtium leaves and a load of fresh truffle that ups the indulgence factor.
A date and thyme ice cream (pun intended) closes the show, flavoured with herby, slightly spicy date, thyme and ginger and topped with toasted pecan, fresh lemon and fresh thyme.