Beauty Eats is Oliver & Bonacini restaurant group’s decidedly Canadian approach to a takeout BBQ joint.
Serving scratch-made, high-end takes on the classics in humongous portions, no particular American state’s style is aspired to but everything is smoked on the premises using a combination gas and wood smoker.
Seating is limited but as industrial as it should be, about as many seats inside as out on a patio with three picnic tables and lawn games.
BBQ beef brisket starts at $14 for a half pound, rubbed and then smoked for eight hours.
It’s $12 on a squishy Martin’s potato roll with a mild barbecue sauce, all proteins (even cauliflower burnt ends) available as sandwiches.
“Primo” sides ($7) include hearty beef chuck burnt ends chili or smoked pork baked beans.
“Torontreal” smoked meat is priced the same, smoked for six hours, kept in a steamer so it stays traditionally molten, and reheated in its own juices in a sous vide process.
BBQ smoked chicken is sold as a half ($12) or whole order ($24), dipped in Osprey Bluffs honey so the skin lacquers and smoked for two hours.
House Alabama white sauce is the ideal accompaniment for the chicken, thin but tangy and ranch-y, breaking up the sweetness and richness of the honey-coated chicken.
Iconic yellow mustard is provided to go with the smoked meat.
A primo “proper” mac n’ cheese is topped with a crumble made using house breadcrumbs and house bacon. Flat tube-shaped house noodles cradle a thick velvety cheese sauce made from nacho cheese, curds and aged cheddar.
Cheapo creamy slaw is made by brining thinly sliced cabbage in sugar and salt, which draws out excess moisture. It’s very creamy without being soggy and the perfect amount of peppery.
Cornbread with chilis, scallions, cheddar and Jack cheese is another awesome cheapo side, very buttery, sweet and salty, baked in a cast iron pan.
$5 desserts include a chocolate PB&J hand pie, basically a peanut butter cup and strawberry jam baked into delicate puff pastry.
I’m partial to frozen s’mores cheesecake on a stick, a chocolate coating, graham crust and mini marshmallows on top creating a summery effect.
Frozen key lime pie on a stick is a little simpler, also coated in chocolate that harmonizes strangely well with the sour citrus flavour of the pie filling.
Fully licensed, Beauty has options for tallboys of craft beer and cans of wine in addition to bottles of soda.
Smoking throughout the day, they try to make sure nothing ever runs out, but notify customers of what’s available with a cutesy light-up sign.
You can even order “Big Beautiful Boxes” starting at $215 here that necessitate 24 hours advance notice.