The Dirty Laundry is bringing the fun of Tex-Mex-inspired fare to Queen West.

Think roasted chicken sammies on Texas toast, 'girl dinner'-inspired nachos, and punchy drinks that keep things relatively affordable.

With a room that feels like it was lifted from the set of Friends, it's the kind of spot made for splitting plates, ordering another round, and staying longer than planned.

Previously home to popular speakeasy Cold Tea and, before that, The Brooklynn, the roomy space has been taken over by Robin Goodfellow (Bar Raval, PrettyUgly, Vela, Harry's Charbroiled) and Aldo Pescatore (PrettyUgly, La Carnita) as a feel-good neighbourhood bar. 

Still very much a speakeasy of sorts, the entrance is located inside Cafe Gigi, the duo's other new establishment, which serves coffeehouse staples, gluten-free pastries, and even cocktail-based brews throughout the day until dinner service.

A dimly lit welcome area sets the tone, complete with Persian rugs and a photo wall.

The warmth carries through to the main dining room. With a mix of high-tops, green wooden booths, and a cozy living room setup, there isn't a bad seat in the house, though the bar, framed by a collection of Tiffany lamps, is definitely a focal point. 

Altogether, the restaurant seats 160, including its outdoor patio.

For Goodfellow and Pescatore, the goal was to make a restaurant their friends would want to come dine at. 

"We like doing things that are awesome, but doing things that are awesome doesn't necessarily need to be expensive," says Goodfellow. "And right now we're just trying to get people back to this street, back to this corner, trying to give them a neighbourhood spot that they can afford."

He describes the concept as a dive-bar riff on Thomas Keller's The French Laundry, taking the same sense of whimsy, fun, and intention and making it more casual and approachable.

When it came to building the menu, few things felt more approachable than Tex-Mex.

The Naccchos Number Three ($19) start with crisp, well-seasoned corn tortillas, sturdy enough to avoid the dreaded soggy chip. Layered on top: white queso, sour cream, white cheddar, and chorizo, plus shredded iceberg lettuce, diced tomatoes, and pickled jalapenos for freshness.

The wings ($14) are dry-rubbed for optimal crispiness and served with two house sauces. The first is a creamy, garlicky ranch packed with fresh herbs, while the second is a sweet-spicy pineapple serrano hot sauce.

The club ($16) keeps things simple with juicy roasted chicken, smoky bacon, crisp iceberg lettuce, thinly sliced tomato, and a creamy tarragon aioli on Texas toast. Bonus points for the crispy chicken skin.

Diners can make any sandwich gluten-free or add a combo ($5). Here, the well-seasoned crinkle-cut fries seem like the only way to go.

The crispy catfish sando ($15) was a no-brainer for the team's chef, Renelle Joubert (Sounds Good, Bar Raval), who grew up eating plenty of fried fish.

Deeply comforting, the flaky white fish is brined, tempura-battered, and fried, then served with crunchy purple slaw and chipotle tartar sauce on a squishy Martin's potato roll. Mildly spicy and extra tangy, it eats like a fish taco. On the side is seasoned tomato rice.

A staple of Tex-Mex cuisine, these ooey-gooey enchiladas ($14) feature three corn tortillas filled with melty white cheddar, cannellini beans, salsa roja, and salsa verde. On top is crumbled queso fresco and a creamy queso sauce. Beef, chicken, shrimp, and mushroom enchiladas are also available.

Warm Churros ($12) make for an easy finish. Golden brown and dusted with plenty of cinnamon sugar, they come with a side of sticky caramel sauce for dipping.

While there are plenty of good bites to go around, The Dirty Laundry is first and foremost a high-volume cocktail bar.

In keeping with the spirit of a traditional dive, there are beers and glasses of wine under $10. But instead of stopping at simple mixed drinks, Goodfellow and Pescatore have also built a curated list of craft cocktails, punches, and non-alcoholic mixes.

The sloe gin fizz ($14) combines sloe gin, lemon, sugar, soda, and cucumber for a refreshing, easy-drinking sip.

The Garden ($19) is an earthy mix of gin, homegrown blend distillate, soil distillate, and white vermouth. Finished with grapefruit zest, it tastes like the name suggests, only more complex than it looks.

"How cool is it that one person is holding a Miller High Life and the next person is holding a Garden?" says Pescatore. 

The Dirty Laundry is located at 1186 Queen St. W.