Wild Chicory indicates with its name that diners here can expect a thoughtful menu centring around local ingredients.
Not only is everything served here as local as possible, items like pasta and burgers are made from scratch in house.
The space formerly home to a dive bar has been made over into three distinct sections.
There's a cozy front area with easy chairs and a fireplace for drinks and snacks, an antler-crowned bar for downing pints, and a back dining room area.
Seared scallops ($15) from the East Coast are sourced through Sheridan specialties. Perfectly cooked, they're preciously presented amongst a very delicately flavoured scattering of compressed apple, cauliflower purée, crushed hazelnuts and a barely there lemon foam.
Beef tartare ($16) tops a puck of rustically chopped raw Alberta beef with crunchy sunchoke chips, pickled pearl onions, and dollops of a strong horseradish aioli it's wise to incorporate fully into the mixture.
Seared Fogo Island cod ($22) on a bed of lemon herbed quinoa salad is paired with a brown butter foam and parsnips three ways. Roasted they're a tad firm, but puréed, they lend moisture to the fish, and as chips they shine.
Other Canadian ingredients highlighted on the menu here might include Quebec duck breast or East Coast haddock.
A Barrel Aged Negroni ($13) ages Collective Arts gin, Campari and Martini Rosso for four weeks in white oak barrels on the bar. The result is a clean-drinking, bittersweet take on a classic.
The Sour Empress ($12) is essentially a gin sour with a pretty look thanks to Empress gin infused with butterfly pea flower. Egg white creates a silky cap, and a sprig of thyme provides an herbal whiff as you take a sip.
Those missing now-shuttered Globe Bistro can take comfort in the fact that Shawn Limoges, a former chef there, heads up the kitchen here at Wild Chicory.