Amber Kitchen and Coffee recently opened its doors in Toronto's Riverside area, serving up a colourful variety of brunch and lunch options, including potato frittata sandwiches, a hearty chopped salad, and creamy corn polenta with mushrooms and perfectly poached eggs.

Located in the historic heritage building formerly home to Boxcar Social, local coffee enthusiasts will be happy to know they have a new neighbourhood destination for their morning cup.

The 30-seat space is full of character, with beautifully arched windows, 18-foot ceilings, and exposed brick and beams. Bathed in natural light, it's an ideal place to catch up with friends or power through a few emails.

"This was a very iconic place for many years," says Chef-Owner George Grabsky. "So we tried not to do a complete change and keep it as authentic as possible."

Mindful of maintaining the original charm, the team introduced subtle amber accents throughout, including amber-hued plexiglass in the windows to add a sense of warmth and coziness to the otherwise airy space.

Industrial touches like metal fixtures and a sleek concrete bar round out the interior. The bar, home to a top-of-the-line espresso machine, also serves as a showcase for daily baked goods and offers a clear view into the open kitchen.

The tight coffee menu features classics like Flat Whites ($5.70) and Cappuccinos ($5.90), made with beans from Ethica Coffee Roasters, alongside creamy Matcha Lattes ($6.10).

Heading the kitchen is George Grabsky, formerly Executive Chef at Parallel Brothers, where he spent the past six years.

Ready to move beyond strictly Middle Eastern fare (though warm hummus has earned a spot on the menu), Amber Kitchen and Coffee is a reflection of Grabsky's evolving culinary journey and his Ukrainian roots. 

Collaborating with Grabsky on the menu is his business partner and wizard of dough, Abraham Tesfazghi, whose Ethiopian background has also subtly found its way into several dishes, including the eight-hour slow-roasted pulled beef sandwich.

The menu is simple and familiar, divided into savoury mezes, delectable handhelds, large salads, breakfast bowls, and a range of egg dishes.

One of my favourite morning creations was the Breakfast Sandwich ($9). It starts with a squishy house-made whole wheat sourdough bun layered with a roasted potato and fluffy egg frittata, a slice of melted cheddar, and fresh spinach. A kick of spicy aioli ties it all together. 

Not your everyday bagel and lox, the Smoked Salmon Sandwich ($16) swaps cream cheese for whipped labneh, made with dairy from local supplier Sheldon Creek. Tucked inside a Jerusalem-style bagel are thin slices of crunchy cucumber, peppery arugula, tangy capers, pickled red onions, and slices of buttery smoked salmon.

An artisanal baker at heart, Grabsky has incorporated potato into his house-baked sourdough baguette, a nod to the staple ingredient in Ukrainian cuisine. Featured in the Artichoke Sandwich ($15), the baguette is tender, slightly chewy, and has a subtle sweetness. 

With bold textures and flavours, this vegetarian sandwich boasts pickled artichokes, confit sundried tomatoes, a creamy walnut pesto, olive tapenade, fresh arugula, crispy fried kale, and grated parmesan. It's bright and savoury, with layers of umami, and what I suspect will quickly become a customer favourite.

The Corn Polenta and Mushrooms ($21) is the definition of warm, savoury comfort food. Two delicately poached eggs and seasonal sautéed mushrooms are served on a bed of creamy polenta, finished with a drizzle of truffle oil, clarified butter, za'atar and freshly grated parmesan. 

Amber Kitchen and Coffee's signature dish is, of course, the Amber Eggs ($19), a fitting name given the vibrant amber-coloured yolks. A play on shakshuka, poached eggs sit atop crusty potato sourdough in a rich, garlicky, basil-infused tomato sauce. The eggs are dressed with a briny salsa verde made with olive oil, parsley, capers, and lemon. 

With an assortment of baked goods, freshly brewed sips, and thoughtfully crafted dishes, Amber Kitchen and Coffee is set to become a must-visit spot in Riverside, especially with talk of an evening menu and wine list in the works. 

Amber Kitchen and Coffee is located at 4 Boulton Avenue.