Goldie is a lush, secluded bar inspired by the golden age of the seventies and eighties from Reza Abedi of Trademark Hospitality.
Cocktails with flirty names and an American backbone are accompanied by a menu of light bar snacks with a global feel by chef Romain Avril (Lavelle).
The space used to play host to burlesque dinner theatre Candyland.
It’s now outfitted with wood panelling that extends all the way up to the high ceilings, velvet booths, and a fringe chandelier.
Lamb meatballs ($12) are a hot canape with Moroccan and Persian influences, served with a cucumber and mint raita, crunchy little slivers of pickled turnips, mint, onion and a harissa emulsion.
The flavours are far different from that of your average Italian meatball.
Chicken drumettes ($13) have frenched bones, creating a lollipop effect, and are cooked confit-style for upscale wings to match this upscale bar.
They’re dipped in honey and crispy garlic, and come with a blue cheese dip that’s uncannily spot on.
Duck confit wontons ($9) are a star steal, playing off Chef Avril’s talent for French Asian fusion. Flavours of green onion, ginger, lemongrass and chili come through strongly with the rich meat, and they’re served with a miso mayo.
Chickpea falafel ($11) topped preciously with sumac, yogurt, pickled turnips and mint provides a vegetarian bar snack.
Crunchy fried green tomatoes ($11) are another, topped with a pea shoot salad and grated asiago.
Ceviche ($14) is made with wild sustainable BC rockfish dressed with coriander, lots of citrus, jalapeno, red onion, and smoky seasoned popcorn that you wouldn’t expect to work but does. A base of creamy, refreshing avocado is underneath.
The Classy AF ($16) is a floral, tart, sweet, sticky mix of Tanqueray, jasmine, apricot, Louis Roederer Brut and Lem-Marrakech bitters garnished with a lemon peel.
I would have expected class to be a tad light, but I suppose that’s where the “AF” part comes in and there’s nothing wrong with that.
Milk & Honey ($16) is a little more masculine and smoky with Johnnie Walker Black, Drambuie, Amontillado sherry, milk liqueur and cherry bitters.
There’s also a private Louis XIII room that can be used upon appointment only, and it’s armed with half a million dollars worth of cognac.
A sequestered club area is up a mirrored staircase lit in hot pink. The lower-ceilinged space is suitable for more intimate bottle service type hangs.
Moment to moment, you might hear Bowie, Heart, disco and alternative all in the same seamless playlist. Kind of like King West and this labyrinthine bar itself, eventually everything blends together in a cognac-blurred, softly lit way.