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What University Avenue used to look like in Toronto

Posted by Derek Flack / July 17, 2012

University Avenue History TorontoAlthough much wistful nostalgia is directed toward the formerly majestic and tree-lined Jarvis Street, the transformation of University Avenue over the years is probably worth a tear or two as well. It's not that the current iteration of University is particularly ugly — it isn't — but when you see what it used to look like, it's easy to wish that Hospital Row had a bit more character.

Formerly named College Avenue after its proximity to King's College (now U of T), at the turn of the century University Avenue was an almost rural-like road that ran from Queen Street to the newly completed provincial legislature (built in 1899). Originally lined with chestnut trees to provide a dramatic entrance to the university, the street was eventually widened and extended south of Queen in 1929, the same year that work on the iconic Canada Life Building got underway.

University Avenue was further widened in 1948 — as were many others in Toronto — but the street's initial character was at least partially maintained via its layout as a boulevard, with trees and various memorials used to divide north and southbound traffic. As was the case a century ago, Queen's Park still serves as the northern terminus of the street, though its visual prominence could be in danger.

Of the changes that have occurred on the street, none sting more than the loss of the stunning Toronto Armouries, which used to be located on the east side of University just north of Queen. Torn down in 1963 — during a period in which our municipal politicians struggled to comprehend the worth of heritage structures — the castle-like building was later replaced by the Provincial courthouse, a structure that no doubt adds to the general concrete feel of the street heading north to Dundas and Beyond.

Unlike Jarvis, University isn't a street crying out for re-beautification. Even if some bemoan the many bland facades that dot its passage between Front and College, the street undeniably retains a stature unmatched by any other in the city.

PHOTOS

College Avenue Toronto 1876College Avenue in 1876

20110103-1896-Tree-lined_University_Avenue.jpegAn almost rural-looking street in 1896

20110103-1897-View_south_from_new_legislative_building.jpegView looking south from the provincial legislature late 1890s

2012717-armouries-1900s-f1568_it0220.jpgThe Armouries, ca. 1900s

2012717-ne-dundas-uni-1908-f1244_it0532.jpgNortheast corner of University & Dundas, 1908

2012717-sa-war-memorial-1908-f1568_it0526.jpgUnveiling of the South African War Memorial, 1908

2012717-university-north-1908-f1244_it0516.jpgUniversity looking north, 1908

2012717-uni-queen-1913-f1231_it0769.jpgUniversity & Queen, 1913 (Osgoode Hall in background)

2012717-university-south-agnes-1913-s0372_ss0058_it0190.jpgFreshly paved south of College, 1913

2012717-v-bond-parade-1915-f1244_it0720d.jpgVictory Bond parade, 1915

2012717-can-life-1929-f1244_it3172.jpgBrand new Canada Life Building, 1929

2012717-uni-from-clb-1929-f1244_it10090.jpgLooking north up University from the Canada Life Building, 1929

2012717-uni-qp-to-bloor-1930-f1244_it1005.jpgLooking north to Bloor from Queen's Park, 1930

20111026-night-canada-life-1934.jpegLooking southeast from the Canada Life Building at night, 1934

2012717-429-university-ave-1935-s0372_ss0041_it0373.jpg429 University Avenue, 1935

2012717-uni-queen-1939-f1231_it1983.jpgUniversity & Queen, 1939

2012717-dundas-university-1940-f1231_it0132.jpgSoutheast corner of University & Dundas, 1940

2012717-uni-widening-1948-s0372_ss0058_it1763.jpgStreet widening, 1948

2012717-elm-university-1958-s0372_ss0100_it0300.jpgLooking west at Elm Street, 1958

20111026-uni-queen-night-1969-f1257_s1057_it6562.jpegUniversity looking south to Queen in 1969 (New TD Centre visible in the background)

Photos from the Toronto Archives

Discussion

23 Comments

the lemur / July 17, 2012 at 01:40 pm
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'University isn't a street crying out for re-beautification'

I think it is. Maybe not as much as Jarvis, but the median on University needs a lot of attention. Right now it's there if you want to cross the street in two stages and there's some landscaping, but it's otherwise pretty uninviting and underused.
Syn / July 17, 2012 at 01:46 pm
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That 1934 photo is really something to look at. Is there a higher resolution available anywhere?
Syn replying to a comment from Derek / July 17, 2012 at 02:03 pm
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Much appreciated.
Bird Collisions / July 17, 2012 at 02:07 pm
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University could sure use some beautification in my opinion. The transformation over the years was done with practicality in mind and little attention to aesthetics. I think we need to strike a balance between the two.
Franco / July 17, 2012 at 02:09 pm
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The 1934 shot is my favourite.
Syn / July 17, 2012 at 02:24 pm
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I am pretty much fine with how University is. There is a place for one of those ceremonial type avenues in every major city, and University plays that role fairly well. It doesn't represent Toronto as well as Spadina does, but it is intended to be more of an Ontario-wide street with all the monuments and Queen's Park at the end.

Could use some more trees though.
steve / July 17, 2012 at 03:23 pm
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There are several improvements needed. The first is to include the people who walk it. Will the fountain at University and Dundas ever be rebuilt ( there is nothing left of it to restore)Years of promises never kept, and this year looks like it won't happen gain.
The two stage crossing is dangerous, very few obey it. Access to the 'islands' are limited, with at least one you cannot get too with out dodging speeding traffic.
There is no way to access Queens park by foot.
University looks pretty until you try and use it.
Realist (mostly) / July 17, 2012 at 03:43 pm
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The two-stage crossing was a bad idea to begin with.
Alex / July 17, 2012 at 03:47 pm
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I used to walk down University all the time to get from UofT to Union and it is one of the best streets in Toronto. A beautiful median, and best of all super wide sidewalks. Thanks for the cool retrospective of it. The Armoury was so cool! Now it is just that large cylindrical building next to the courthouse I believe, nowhere near as beautiful as it used to be.
Jack / July 17, 2012 at 04:13 pm
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That 1934 pic is fantastic. Royal York dominating the lakefront and is that the Bank of Nova Scotia building towering over downtown? I think it was built in 1929.
W. K. Lis / July 17, 2012 at 04:21 pm
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Slowly, the car took more of University Avenue for itself, through the addition of more traffic lanes and less of the tree boulevard and sidewalks. The high speeds of the cars on it have made it a more dangerous place, changing it into an near-expressway.
Ace McNugget / July 17, 2012 at 05:12 pm
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great pictures- shows how the city kept giving more to the motorists who would just keep on taking until the centre pathway park (which could have been a beautiful channel in the middle of the boulevard) became a laughable footpath between two busy multilane mini motorways.
Ace McNugget / July 17, 2012 at 05:20 pm
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PS university is one of the ugliest streets in toronto now, maybe only beaten by the undisputed champion dufferin. 10 ugliest streets in toronto- new feature for blogTO?
Alex replying to a comment from Ace McNugget / July 17, 2012 at 05:35 pm
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University is one of the ugliest streets in Toronto? I think you need to see more of Toronto, University is one of the most beautiful streets in Toronto. Try driving around Eglinton and Warden and you'll see some pretty ugly industrial streets. Or just Dundas between Spadina and Yonge, it's all crappy restaurants and dollar/import stores. In general I think Toronto has beautiful streets and some really interesting architecture...I did grow up in the suburbs though.
phil / July 17, 2012 at 07:50 pm
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University. What a waste of what could be a beautiful street. Imagine they could have made this into something like the Magnificent Mile in Chicago. Instead its hospitals and office buildings.
Even the median in the middle is a waste. Drive by there during morning rush hour and you'll find a bunch of bums sleeping on the benches. This is no world class city.
Mr. Lazy Susan / July 17, 2012 at 08:38 pm
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One thing I wish the City would get off it's ass and improve is the South African War Memorial. Hard to believe that it was "restored" only 11 years ago when you consider the dried up, crumbling disgrace that it's become.

Here, this is what we COULD have at the intersection of Queen and University:

http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1062/833833796_d7735ce958.jpg

And this is what we DO have:

http://farm5.staticflickr.com/4101/4762074541_073589dfdb_z.jpg

I'm sure these guys would be happy:

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/2/24/1908_Toronto_SouthAfrican_War_Memorial_QueenSt.jpg

seanm replying to a comment from Jack / July 17, 2012 at 11:29 pm
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That's the original head office of the Canadian Bank of Commerce, now known as Commerce Court North. It was the tallest building in the British Empire from 1930 to 1962.
Adam / July 18, 2012 at 09:03 am
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I still get depressed whenever I see pictures of the planned Vimy Circle, that was supposed to be University Ave's southern terminus but was cancelled because of the great depression.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/yonderbean/4585879440/
Peter / July 18, 2012 at 09:41 am
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University is the closest thing Toronto has to a Grand Avenue,I'm fine with it how it is. True, north of Dundas, it's boxed in by a wall of hospital concrete but it makes an interesting corridor: starting fairly wide-open at Queen, narrowing through the hostpitals and then ending with the historicity and green of Queen's Park. By design or accident, I think it actually works.
the lemur replying to a comment from Adam / July 18, 2012 at 10:11 am
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When I look at the awkward mess that is the University/Front/York intersection, it's tempting to imagine a similar traffic circle, but smaller.
alex / July 18, 2012 at 10:34 am
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In photo #13 - http://www.blogto.com/upload/2012/07/2012717-uni-from-clb-1929-f1244_it10090.jpg with the caption "Looking north up University from the Canada Life Building, 1929", does anyone know the building on the lower right corner? Looks like some kind of a church or synagogue.

Lewis / July 20, 2012 at 05:40 am
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Something changed, nothing gained....

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