Baked Goods
Nu Bugel
Nu Bugel opened its doors this week after months of delays, finally bringing one of my favourite breakfast foods to Kensington Market.
Admittedly, I am a bit of a bagel aficionado. Growing up, my family only had one Sunday morning tradition and it involved a walk to Kiva's, or a drive to grandma's hitting Gryfe's on the way. Later, a brief stint living in Montreal's Mile End won my allegiance to the chewy, boiled variety, but ultimately it's not so much the bagel that I crave, but rather the lazy ritual of a morning walk rewarded by carbs, cream cheese, and coffee. Until recently this was not an experience available in Toronto's downtown core.
As it turns out, it was no easy feat. Co-owners Roberto Iglicki, Juan Hernandez and Shahzad Khuram had to reinforce the foundation when building the 20,000 lb wood burning oven onsite, which is essential for giving these Montreal-style bagels their signature earthy flavour and hard crust.
The bakery cafe takes over the space formerly home to the Kensington Clothing Company and the transformed interior nods to its past life with adornments like the original signage (or at least a piece of it), and an antique Singer sewing machine serving as a milk and sugar station. The atmosphere is only missing one thing: the smell of the wood burning oven.
Integral to my ritual (and the entire reason I've been looking forward to Nu Bugel's opening) is ordering a bag of bagels first thing and eating one while the doughy middle is still steaming, preferably before you even make it out of the store.
Sadly, on entering Nu Bugel I knew this wasn't going to happen; a large batch baked earlier was skewered on display, but the wood burning oven wasn't even on. My fears were quickly confirmed when my half dozen ($5) bagels were handed over cold - though I'll forgive it this once, with the hope that once they gain a little momentum, those ovens will be firing all day long.
The large blackboard menu is extensive and a little chaotic. In addition to soups and salads, there are a dozen sandwiches on offer like the Exotic Avocado ($6.50), which features spicy black bean hummus, avocado, and pea shoots between your bagel of choice. Its not the most attractive sandwich, but it's tasty, and a nice vegetarian option.
The Lox and Cream Cheese Sandwich ($8) is of course the traditionalists' choice and comes served with customary red onion slices and an added twist of lemon caper aioli. For me, the additional creamy component of aioli isn't necessary and it doesn't deliver the intended zing that lemon and capers promise. Though I'm not convinced its an improvement on the classic, it does hit the spot.
The Smoked Trout Sandwich ($8) features flaky fish from Oakville-based The Smoke Master, and comes gussied up with horseradish jelly and mustard. The strong flavours are inventive but don't really do each other justice. I've never felt so strongly conservative and I find myself wishing I had stuck to tried and true classics like the smoked meats supplied by what's arguably one of Toronto's best delis, Moe Pancer's.
Though I'm glad to have tried Nu Bugel's cafe offerings, I'll likely stick to take-away on future visits. The bakery is open (every day but Monday) 11am to 6pm, and if their first weekend was any indication, line-ups are to be expected.
Photos by Jesse Milns
Discussion
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I guess St. Lawrence Market must be in Scarborough then, because last I checked, there's a St. Urbain, making fresh, Montreal style bagels all day long (and yes, you can even get them with steam in the bag) at the market, for several years now. But then, that does entail going east of Yonge St (even if it is only 2 blocks) - probably too far east for a typical BlogTO writer to venture, so I guess I can forgive your ignorance on this. That said, if you're going to make such sweeping pronouncements about the downtown core, it probably helps to actually know your way around it.
Haven't tried Nu Bagel as yet, but it's always nice to see additional options popping up around the downtown area.
torontonians just don't appreciate bagels...
We're they flavourful, dense, chewy, sweet? Was the hole too big or just right? To "review" a place that sells bagels, I expect to know something after reading the article other than they were not served warm.
Have to echo above comment about forgetting St Urbain - they're almost always still warm and too easy to eat while walking around the market.
All in all Nu Bugel was delicious moderately priced, was able to create my own sandwich, had delicious hot chocolate, and staff/owners was very friendly and accomodating.
Side note, they had run out of bananas and they simply went across the street to buy new ones while we sat drinking our hot chocolate, eating a pretzel and enjoying the lovely atmosphere.
That's what she said!!
These bagels are tasty, much better than the bagels the surrounding cafes can offer. I would not call it an attraction on it's own, certainly not Montreal doppelgangers.
They are great bagels, dense, sweet, slightly chewy (long after being out of the oven), enough sesame seeds (not fantastically rolled in them like true St. Viateurs, still). They aren't the skinny little guys you get in MTL either. If you want the real deal, go to St. Urbain.
The real winner was the pretzels! Maybe even worth the $2.50 they charge for 'em.
As you were.
Happy it's open!
How courteous of you to reply too and "... if you read a little more carefully", you'll note I was addressing your "... over-priced downtown bagels" remark in your first Comment (that's bagels plural, right?) by bringing to your attention that these "downtown bagels" in fact sell for a very reasonable $0.75 each by the dozen, and are not "over-priced", as you'd stated.
Re. the price of your bagel sandwich, your opinion is of course as valid as the next person's.
As you were Sadie.
Thanks Nu Bugel!!! That's how customers for life are made.
St.Urbain's ones from St.Lawrence are frankly disappointing and insipid. What a bagel is also uninspiring. And yes, the name is unfortunate, but everything else about this place is great: very welcoming atmosphere, great sides (even if a bit expensive in-store), lovely prices for take-away bagels and jars of homemade lox cream cheese (not cloying Philadelphia style at all).
p.s. btw if the bagel hasn't been boiled before baking it's just NOT a bagel at all, period.