The Good Son
The Good Son restaurant, from chef Vittorio Colacitti (of Top Chef Canada fame), is now open at Queen and Dovercourt at the address formerly inhabited by the clubby Nyood .
Enter through the pantry, which serves as a hostess station and doubles as a pizza takeaway counter and retail outlet for the Colacitti family's olive oils. Further inside, you'll find a cozy and eclectic room that echoes the comforts of home.
Leather wingback chairs and tufted booths furnish the lounge, while the kitchen at the back of the room overlooks a 18-seat harvest table. Faux heirlooms like ornamental dishes and a collection of chiming clocks adorn the walls.
The menu features dishes like the steak tartare ($19), which pay tribute to Colacitti's mentors and the melting pot of cuisines found in Toronto. Done in the style of Didier , hand chopped beef tenderloin is tossed with cornichons, shallots, capers and herbs before being finished with a soft-boiled quail egg and lightly grilled sourdough.
Hamachi crudo ($13) crowned by lotus root chips is complemented with vibrant flavours of tomatillo puree, pickled radish and jalapeno slaw.
Crispy potato-wrapped jerk shrimp ($13) are served three per order, with a tart Thai green mango slaw and a garnish of fresh peanuts.
Pizza, overseen by sous chef Andrew Leblanc (formerly of Pizzeria Via Mercanti ), is a cross between Roma and Neapolitan styles. Cooked in a wood-burning M.A.M pizza oven imported from Bologna, it yields a crust that is thin but sturdy. The spicy sopressata ($15) begins with a base of sweet tomato sauce, a combination of buffalo mozzarella and fior di latte, and olives sun-dried to mellow their briny flavour.
From the bar, try cocktails like the Run, Tommy, Run ($14), a blend of Tromba Tequila, agave, lime, basil and chilis.
The Good Son is open Wednesday to Friday for dinner from 5pm, while lunch will be offered on weekends from 11:30am. To compliment the restaurant, a New Orleans speakeasy-style cocktail lounge named Wayward is slated to open on the floors above.
Photos by Jesse Milns