Restaurants
Pizzeria Via Mercanti
Pizzeria Via Mercanti is the latest addition to Toronto's Neapolitan-style pizza scene, and in many ways holds its own with some of the other major players in this city like Pizza Libretto, Terroni and Queen Margherita Pizza. The menu is pared down compared to these other options and the decor a little less sophisticated, but the servers are friendly and the ingredients are fresh. Their fior di latte is from Woodbridge and the waitress tells my friend and I that other ingredients are sourced via neighbouring shops in Kensington Market.
They've also got a pair of seasoned pizza makers to ensure a fine product. Romolo Salvati and Massimo Di Lascio both left the Queen Margherita only two months ago to open up this new spot. And before that, they made pizzas in Italy. They opened up Via Mercanti in the recently shuttered Back Alley Woodfire BBQ and Grill, and put together a clean, basic and bright space. The space is what first really separates Via Mercanti from its pizzeria peers.
The other big name pizza shops in this town have carefully designed, rustic-chic interiors, which are more polished than a pizzeria needs to be. Oh, and don't forget that you're probably gong to be waiting a while for a table (ahem, Libretto). Via Mercanti's no frills vibe is a welcome alternative, if perhaps a little surprising given how competitive this segment of the local restaurant scene has become.
We begin with the appetizer Bocconcini Di Pizza ($1/each) — think bite-sized mini calzones — stuffed with ricotta, fior di latte and prosciutto. They're served with homemade spicy chili oil that's perfect for dipping. They arrive at our table, piping hot and stuffed with gooey cheese. We're a bit surprised at how filling they are so we refrain from devouring more than a couple despite how good they are. We need to save room for our mains.
I order the Margheritona pizza (pictured at top), topped with fior di latte, prosciutto crudo, basil and fresh parmesan ($13). It's simple, hot and has all the qualities of a good Neapolitan pizza, but I must say it's not the best I've had in this city. The crust is not quite as light and airy, and the sauce doesn't strike that same great balance between salty, sweet and acidic, but it's still really good. Also, the chef tells me they've ordered a new oven from Naples, the secret weapon of any Neopolitan pizzeria, which should arrive shortly and could be significantly better than their current, non-Italian wood-burning oven.
Though they serve a good pizza, Via Mercanti's pasta dishes should not be overlooked, each featuring fresh, housemade pasta with a few classic Italian pairings. The waitress assures us that in the couple weeks they've been open, no one's ever left so much as a stray noodle on their plate at the end of the meal. After trying my friend's Fagottino Di Parma ($15), I believe it. The rosebud-shaped noodles are cooked al dente and tossed in a parmesan cream sauce, wrapped with slices of prosciutto and garnished with parmesan shavings and fresh herbs. Simple but just right.
The elegant presentation of this dish is at odds with the unpretentious and even sterile décor of the restaurant. Perhaps they reserve their aesthetic flare for the food rather than the ambience, but they certainly won't hear any complaints on that front from our table.
And yes, we did order three dishes of essentially just prosciutto with cheese. And no, we did not regret it.
Discussion
25 Comments
Sort By Oldest First / Newest First
Subscribe
Yeah, its true, but most: young people begining to work, recent grads, freelancers etc don't earn the kind of money to eat there. For us, its Neu+ral, Sneaky's and Planet Pizza after!
Where service/retail/food industry wage earners should eat without spending a few days worth of "going out" money on one meal. Welcome to Kensington Mercanti!
xoxo
There is also a good selection of beers (with a few on tap). Pizza and a beer can be had for 20 bucks and I was totally stuffed.
Look...for all you Libretto lovers - get over it. It sucks. It was a good start to the Neapolitan scene in Toronto but for the real thing, you have to eat at Via Mercanti. Everything about this place is authentic.
If you want to have properly made Neapolitan pizza in Toronto, do go to Libretto. There's a reason for the hype.
Via Mercanti - friendly servers, comfortable space, but, honestly, mediocre pizza.
Coming soon with my girlfriend, she loves Italian food and I know she is going to love this place! Thank you, Pizzeria Via Mercanti for opening up. It is very popular busy place with repeat customers who know great Italian food. "When the Moon Hits the Sky like a big Pizza Pie, its AMORE"!
For me it goes:
TERRONI
VIA MERCANTI/QUEEN MARGERITA (same quality)
BUDDHA PIE
LIBRETTO
For slices it's EASILY North of Brooklyn