Raani

Raani

Raani is a Toronto restaurant that oozes opulence and femininity, its unique menu paired with a romantic narrative that anchors the team's every move. 

Though Bay Street is peppered with luxe gastronomic shrines built to elicit emotions from (and empty the pockets of) jaded captains of industry, rarely is the mise-en-scène as meticulously designed as it is at Raani.

The newest project from restaurateur Ambica Jain, who co-founded MJAJ Hospitality and Michelin-recommended Adrak Yorkville, the restaurant transports India's royal heritage to a former Financial District bank building, its menu divided into chapters designed to reflect the journey through a queen's royal quarters. 

RaaniWhether you're familiar with the history or not, Raani's look, by LW Design Group, is striking. Taking cues from richly appointed palaces of yore, it's colourful and textured, blending tapestry-like wallpaper with plush, jewel-toned fabrics, hand-crafted millwork, marble and brass. 

RaaniSpanning two levels, it counts 162 seats across its dining room, bar area, chef's counter and private event space. Throughout, gorgeous, glam women regally peer down from portraits, a fact that helps to drive home the theme and ensure that guests behave. 

RaaniOrder a drink from the Lotus Bar and settle in for a good read. Detailing dozens of dishes, each part of a specific chapter (such as The Royal Hunt or The Royal Bread Room), Raani's menu demands to be studied. 

Its cocktails, each described in decidedly poetic ways, reference Indian traditions and flavour combinations, from the Saffron Letters ($28), made with fragrant saffron murabba, to the smoky Rebel Princess ($28) and the gin-based Forbidden Garden ($25), freshened up with a tomato and strawberry shrub. 

RaaniAs at Adrak, Jain's goal at Raani is to highlight modern Indian cuisine. "It's about bringing Indian food to the next level," says CEO of MJAJ Hospitality, Dilawar Nindrasingh. "This restaurant is not about butter chicken and black dal. This is taking food beyond it, to show off Indian food in a more luxurious manner."

RaaniThe menu, developed with executive chef Shrikant Tadke, took months to develop, its recipes a reflection of various regions of India and moments in time. "People have a concept where Indian food is not that expensive," he explains. "We are trying to get the lost old recipes to make people look at our food not like the regular restaurants. It's how the royalty comes to the downtown of Toronto."

Local ingredients form the base of most recipes, bolstered by a roster of essential imported goods. Sourcing, explains Tadke, comes down to quality. "We are trying to get the best of the best ingredients."

RaaniA dazzling first impression, or Darbaar, raja kachori ($30) is a head-turning azure shade, its semolina shell filled with masala prawns, chutneys and legumes; a single, erect crustacean at its peak meant to mimic the crown of a king. 

RaaniFor the next chapter, the team honours the queen's garden, or Bagh, with dishes like chili-marinated recheado paneer ($30) and a trio of mini kulcha ($30) stuffed with mushroom, spinach, corn and paneer bhurji.

Though the garden is an obvious stop for vegetarians, they're encouraged to continue exploring, as Raani's menu is divided equally between meat- and plant-based dishes. 

RaaniTake part in The Royal Hunt, then visit The Royal Kitchen to find venison pathar ke kebab ($58) and Andhra samudra biryani ($65). 

RaaniPasanda-cut and stone-seared with a blend of roasted spices, the first is an homage to the history of live-fire cooking. It's paired with the type of rustic, earthy, hand-ground silbatta chutney royal cooks would have made mid-hunt. 

RaaniIts star ingredient futilely clawing at freedom, seafood biryani is aromatic and rich, built on a base of elegant aged basmati rice. Dum-cooked under a pastry lid, it's one of four biryani options.

RaaniFor dishes that other spots "don't dare to put on their menu," according to Nindrasingh, savour your exclusive invitation into the queen's private court. It's here that the team regales diners with signature recipes and regional classics, like chicken changezi ($38) and safed maas chops ($58). 

RaaniWinningly spicy and plush, tandoor-roasted chicken meets purani dilli changezi gravy and smoked ghee in a dish that could seduce on its own. With pools of sauce to imbibe, an order of butter ($8) or garlic naan ($10) is a necessary add-on. 

RaaniBraised lamb chops, meanwhile, rest atop a creamy, savoury sauce made of yogurt, cashews, cardamom and saffron oil. Royal Indian women may not have made a habit of picking up their meat, but you'll be compelled to. 

RaaniFinal bites from the sweet palace, mirchi ka halwa ($19) and raani-e-mithai ($25) offer two takes on dessert—one homey and warming, made of green chilies, milk, ghee and nuts, the other, elaborately layered and fit for a queen.

Raani

For Ambica Jain and her team, the story that began with Adrak has taken an ambitious turn with Raani. "Downtown was pending. We wanted to come with a big swing, a big bang," affirms Nindrasingh. "A raani is bold. We have to be congruent to what a raani is, so we bring all those concepts to Toronto."

RaaniRaani is located at 360 Bay Street. 
 

Photos by

Fareen Karim 


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