Proper is a Toronto restaurant bringing Italian-American fare to the heart of Roncesvalles.

Think generous portions of cheesy, homemade mozza sticks, spicy rigatoni alla vodka, meatballs smothered in red sauce, and grated parm on everything.

With a stacked kitchen team, tight cocktail program, and space that is undeniably cool, it may come as a surprise to diners that the owner is new to the restaurant industry.

From left to right: Michael Edwards (Owner), Julien Cawagas (Chef), Jen Neabel (Mixologist)

​A business consultant for more than 30 years, starting a restaurant wasn't exactly on Edwards' bingo card.

"At some point in 2025, I was like, 'You know what? I'm ready for something new,'" Edwards tells blogTO. "I wanted something a little more tangible, as opposed to selling ideas and opinions."

​When a local neighbourhood spot became available just a short ten-minute walk from his home, it felt like the right opportunity.

"I didn't realize how much work it would be to create a restaurant," laughs Edwards.
The 45-seat space blends elements of the previous La Cubana, including turquoise tile walls and Mexican ceramic talavera floors, with mid-century Italian design. '70s-style sconces positioned throughout the restaurant were sourced straight from Italy.

​There are also velvet banquets, marble tables, warm mahogany panelling, and old-timey black-and-white photos of Toronto, giving the room a layered feel that goes beyond just being retro.

​Behind the menu is chef Cawagas, who's no stranger to Italian cuisine thanks to stints at Toronto's Eataly and Guiletta, and King City's Locale. He also credits his love for the cuisine to growing up in his Nonno's garden.

​Dishes lean into comfort and indulgence, with many of the entrees offering a twist on familiar favourites.

The Mozzarella Sticks ($15) are coated in crispy panko breadcrumbs and a four-herb blend of basil, fennel, oregano, and parsley. They're served with classic marinara and creamy truffle aioli for dipping.​

I mean, just look at the cheese pull.

​The Baby Gem Caesar Salad ($19) is a classic done right. Thoroughly dressed, it's crunchy, creamy, and tangy with crispy pancetta, capers, and white anchovies tossed into the mix, then finished with a golden crouton crumb and freshly grated parmigiano.

From New York to Toronto, no Italian-American menu would be complete without vodka sauce pasta. At Proper, the Rigatoni alla Vodka ($25) sees fresh rigatoni generously coated in a glossy tomato-cream sauce that clings to every ridge. It's finished with stracciatella and a fine verde breadcrumb of parsley and basil.
The Ravioli al Ragù ($27) begins with a slow-cooked bolognese of veal, pork, and beef, made with the usual soffritto, plus red wine, rosemary, and thyme. Simmered for five to six hours, the sauce is paired with fresh spinach ravioli filled with whipped ricotta and parmigiano, tossed in brown butter.

Though there's no béchamel, it eats like a deconstructed lasagna.

​The name Jersey Mike's might bring to mind loaded subs and the sandy Jersey Shore, but for Cawagas, it inspired the whole grilled Branzino ($43).

​"When I went to New Jersey, I had the hot pepper relish at Jersey Mike's," says Cawagas. "I was like, this is so good — it works on everything. So I thought maybe I could do it on something other than a sub, like a fish."

​Dry-aged for seven days, the branzino is grilled to achieve its crispy skin, then finished in the oven. It's topped with a simple slaw of fennel, carrot, and apple tossed in olive oil and balsamic, along with signature tangy hot pepper relish. On the side is a smooth-as-butter carrot purée.

​The Bistecca ($86) is a 16-ounce ribeye from Calgary, finished with bright salsa verde and confit garlic.
Cocktails follow suit with riffs on Italian classics, like the Tiramisu Martini ($18). It's made with vodka, coffee liqueur, espresso, and a vanilla mascarpone crème, then finished with a dusting of cocoa powder and a mini almond biscotti.

For a bright, warming sip, the Paper Spirit ($18) blends mulled spice-infused whiskey with Amaro Nonino, Aperol, and fresh lemon juice.
More citrus-forward, the Chef's Coat ($18) mixes gin, Lillet, Green Chartreuse, and citrus bitters

Proper is located at 392 Roncesvalles Ave.