The St. Lawrence Market area between Church and Jarvis around Front Street is quickly becoming a definite go-to destination for those looking for good eats.

Between the Jamie Kennedy restos , the various pubs like the Jersey Giant and Jason George, the middle of the road fare of the Hot House Cafe , the newest trend in the area appears to be what I like to call the Asian- ish . It started with Spring Rolls , where you can get a good variety of Vietnamese- ish , Thai- ish and Chinese- ish dishes. Then Izakaya opened; a styly Japanese- ish noodle joint.

Ish because while many of these restos still have enjoayble food, the dishes they offer are watered down versions of the real thing. And Ninth Gate is the newest member of the St. Lawrence Ish club.

The Ninth Gate recently opened its doors in the space formerly occupied by the Golden Griddle, on the corner of Jarvis and Front.

First Impression: The space has been beautifully renovated and there is absolutely NO hint that the Golden Griddle ever existed within it. My friend and I (both Japanese) feel as though we are in a cafe in Tokyo. Airy, bright and minimal. The big picture windows give a great view of the busy intersection outside.

The menu features standard Korean fare, some with slight modern-ish twists. The Bibimbop (assortment of seasoned vegetables, diced beef and egg over a bowl of rice - $10.95) comes with your choice of three sauces: traditional, sweet & sour chili and maple soy. The Ninth Gate's version of Ramen ($7.95 - $9.95), which is actually a Japanese noodle soup (inspired by the Chinese), has Korean egg noodles served with mild or spicy broth.

My friend orders the Soon Dubu (mixed seafood & tofu stew - $3.50) and the appetizer Kalbi (marinated beef short ribs - $4.95). While I am tempted by the Ramen, I pass in favour of the Bibimbop. There is nothing worse than a bad noodle soup. (There are so many ways it can go wrong: bad soup or bad noodles or bad BOTH.) But it's hard to completely screw up Bibimbop. I also opt for the $1 extra substitution of brown rice instead.

Namul, the plentiful sample appetizers which are usually included with Korean meals, is listed as a starter on the menu. And the few that do come with the full entrees we order are paltry in size and variety.

As for our meals, my friend is very happy with her Kalbi and OK with her soup. While I think my Bibimbop looks great, but my brown rice has been forgotten and the dish is decent, at best. The service is friendly, but not exactly attentive and knowledgeable.

Go for the decor, atmosphere and people-watching. It's a pale Korean- ish imitation of what you can really have. And if it's really good Korean food you're after (for even better prices), check out some of the places listed in the Best of Indie TO poll .

The Ninth Gate

11 Jarvis St.

416-981-1919