The menu here at Good Hombres is pretty much completely different from Campechano and the inexpensive $3.75 tacos are a little smaller, and masa and tortillas are available wholesale here unlike at Campechano.
However, tortillas are still made from scratch at both operations.
Most of the space in this former Starbucks is taken up by a massive tortilla-making machine imported from Mexico, the squeaks and squeals of which are apparently a common sound in a Mexican taqueria.
To make the tortillas, heirloom corn imported from Mexico is boiled overnight, and cooked with an alkaline product traditionally known as cal.
The corn is then stone-ground each morning with a special mill, and finally kneaded aggressively to get the final masa dough.
The tortilla machine cookie-cutters the dough into circles, which are then baked on conveyor belts using hot air.
Pescado tacos are some of the most popular in the city over at Campechano, and these uphold that reputation. A crunchy beer-battered haddock fillet is barely contained by the contrasting soft tortilla, set off by crisp shredded lettuce, chipotle mayo and creamy avocado puree.
Carne Asada tacos are stuffed with thin-cut strip loin topped with an arbol and jalapeno salsa verde. Except for the fried fish pretty much every protein here is grilled, and the different salsas and accompaniments on each taco deliver a swift one-two punch to the palate.
Bistec tacos are marinated, seasoned top sirloin topped with a salsa macha of garlic, oil and guajillo peppers, a little cooling avocado puree on top.
The Pollo Asado tacos are stuffed with mild but smoky grilled chicken, topped with a little of the same salsa macha as the Bistec.
Chiles Toreados tacos are inspired by a traditional dish by the same name. Actually a vegetarian option, mashed black bean is topped with spicy and bright grilled shishitos and a salsa raja.
The Costillitas des Res, a braised short rib taco, gets a heap of the salsa raja, made with tomato, chipotle and arbol.
Try a house agua Jamaica ($2) hibiscus iced tea to wash everything down, or opt for a Mexican soda in a cool retro bottle ($3).
Tortillas are $5 to take home in a 12-piece package, and blue, white or yellow corn masa is $10 per kilogram.
This place only has a capacity of nine and no liquor license so don’t expect to hang here with a huge group of friends, though like Campechano there is a patio. Watch out for sopes and the like occasionally gracing the menu here too.