The Burger Shop
The Burger Shop serves exactly what you'd expect—saucy, messy burgers and crunchy fried sides—made with a level of care and attention that might surprise.
A first solo project for business partners David Deif and Klajdi Hoxha, The Burger Shop has been perfuming West Queen West with the scent of onion-laced smash patties since mid-February.
"We're both so passionate about burgers," gushes Deif, a restaurant-industry veteran who first met Hoxha working at (what else?) a local burger chain. "We always wanted to do something on our own," he says, adding that when smash burgers "became a thing," the pair seized their chance.
Despite the rise in popularity of the distinct burger style, "a lot of what people call smash burgers aren't really smash burgers the way they should be," according to Deif.
"An Oklahoma smash burger, basically, is that you smash it with onions. Nobody does this. They take the easy way out," he adds. "It's not easy in the kitchen when you're trying to smash onions on every burger, and keep the consistency right."
Inspired by other staunch smash-burger champions, such as California's Heavy Handed, Deif and Hoxha set out to bring Toronto the real thing.
In a simple room decorated with posters of anthropomorphized condiments and Mr. Borgir, the team's jovial mascot, they do just that.
Throughout the day (and until 3 a.m., on weekends), the team smashes 4-ounce chuck and brisket patties atop tidy piles of thinly-sliced onions until each is rimmed with a caramelized, crispy edge, its juices warmed and free-flowing.
Building sizeable burgers—including the Double Onion Smash ($13.50) and Double Mushroom Smash ($10)—they layer them with cheese onto pillowy potato buns.
"For me, American cheese is a good thing if you're trying to keep your costs down," argues Deif. "If you're trying to eat a good burger, it should be cheddar cheese. We use organic, medium cheddar cheese. It's a good piece of cheese," he assures.
When ordering, customers can opt for "original" or "classic" toppings. The former, refers to pickles and TBS sauce: a zingy, mayo-based condiment with the noticeable twang of mustard and relish. The latter, meanwhile, is a nostalgic mix of shredded lettuce, tomato, pickles, ketchup and mustard.
From the bottom up, each and every burger is built for maximum flavour.
"I don't like cutting corners," affirms Deif, adding that ingredients are never frozen and that the team is "always trying to find a way to make it fresh."
A departure from smashed offerings, the Spicy Chicken sandwich ($10) is a fast-food doppelgänger that's zippy and fresh, with top-tier crunch and the zesty kick of house jalapeño aioli. Considerably more appealing than the mass-produced letdown it was inspired by, it's likely to steal some of the spotlight from the team's beef-centric options.
In addition to The Burger Shop's abundance of animal proteins, the Veggie Classic ($9.50) assures that vegetarians and vegans (order yours sans cheese and sauce) can get their fix.
Smashed with onions and seasoned with a slew of veggies, herbs and spices, the soy-based patty is a robust, hearty substitute for beef, even if it never quite crisps up in the same way.
Alongside standard-issue tots ($8), fries ($6) are made from local Russet potatoes that are cut in-house and double-fried for an über-golden take on the quintessential side.
Heaped with elements of a smash burger—patty crumbles, onions, sauces, et al.—Smash Fries ($13) are a hefty, if not particularly healthy, meal.
Marginally more restrained, Spicy Loaded Fries ($10) are a saucy jumble of sustenance shot through with a sassy hit of heat.
"I want people to be satisfied. I want to give them bang for their buck," enthuses Deif. Beyond that? He and business partner Hoxha simply want to serve Toronto diners the best smash burgers they've ever tasted.
The Burger Shop is located at 960 Queen Street West
Fareen Karim