Botham's takes its title from the maiden name of the grandmother of the two brothers that own this place, Ben and Jack Wilkinson.
Apparently she's the one who instilled a love of food in the pair, who are also behind much smaller Hole in the Wall next door.
The brothers are also the ones who completely transformed this space from an antique store into a restaurant with an old world feel, complete with hammered tin ceilings, luxurious booths and a wood-burning pizza oven at the back.
Lobster & Potato Salad ($18) is by turns precious, unexpected and luxurious, paired with a lemon aioli and a light salad dressed with a lemon dijon vinaigrette. Potato is tender and earthy, the lobster perfectly succulent.
A Margherita ($15) is the simplest and most affordable of a range of sourdough pizzas that are topped with ingredients like house sausage, Yukon gold potato and smoked ham. There's also always a daily special market priced pizza.
The term sourdough pizza indicates that pizza dough here is made with a sourdough starter. This results in a tangy crust that's spongy and elastic with crispy, charred, lightly bubbled edges.
Short rib ($30) from the “Embers & Grill section of the menu is paired with kale, chili and mushrooms, everything sitting in a very creamy, oily sauce. A bite of the fatty meat smothered in sauce with mushroom, kale and zinging chili is wonderfully harmonious and indulgent.
Other items from this section include a burger, trout, pickerel, flank steak, portobello and even a massive porterhouse. Pair with a selection from a wide array of sides like squash, celery root, rapini or fries to create a steakhouse-style dinner.
A verbal menu of desserts changes daily, a square of flourless chocolate cake accompanied by a dense cloud of whipped cream, a viscous chocolate sauce and edible flowers.
A Corpse Reviver #2 is lemony and delicate, but still has a boozy, iconic feel.
A Penicillin is another classic from the cocktail list, scotch-forward with a gigantic ice cube and a garnish of citrus peel and crystallized ginger.
There's also a thoughtful wine list and a range of beers intended to pair well with the food.
For a unique dining experience, take a seat at one of five little stools grouped in two separate glassed-in, plant-filled nooks on either side of the entrance, or at a bar facing the oven.