The Queen of Chicken replaces Sammy's BBQ across from Bathurst station. Same owners, same menu offerings, same cash-only policy, same Annex hodgepodge of strays and regulars. But its new signage gives the impression of a chain shop, even if the interior still feels as laid-back and homey as the plump chicken they have on rotation in the window.

The food's better than at George's Deli & BBQ but not quite the ample selection of sides as the Rooster farther west; their pricing is pretty on the money. A bevy of franchises occupy most of this Bloor intersection, so The Queen is kind of a no-brainer if you want a proper meal made from scratch that'll fill you up and won't break bank.

Don't be surprised if sometimes a wait is in order: at lunch during the week it's a popular student hotspot and practically overflows. And as the work day winds down, subway-goers flock here for an affordable dinner.

I'm told they're scrapping the breakfast menu since their chicken meals dominate sales. Burgers ($6.25 combo) and fish & chips ($7.95) remain, but the chicken is why you want to eat here, either their quarter-chicken meal ($6.25 with one side; $7.50 with two sides) or half-chicken ($8.25; $9.50).

You can also do the whole bird meal that's fairly priced: a whole chicken with two large sides goes for $21.95; two whole chickens and three large sides are $34.95. Think about all the leftovers you'll have.

The fire-roasted white meat quarter chicken meal hits the spot. Still tender and juicy, not too dry, with a splash of hot sauce, the meat has a lot of finger-lickin' appeal - its seasoning is aged six months and has been a secret family recipe running back many generations. The Queen of Chicken does several fresh roasts over the course of the day to meet demand.

Similarly, their Parisienne-style taters also use an aged seasoning. A starchy bite that's a tad crispy and garlicky, they're doled out in a healthy portion as a side, or you can get a container of them separately ($4.99 small; $6.99 large). I'd get the house salad again, which was a standard mix with shredded cheese and house dressing. Not too shabby - it was more appetizing than the Greek salad and bean salad they had on hand.

Perhaps the biggest criticism you'll likely have for The Queen of Chicken comes in this regard: apart from rice and a few salads, they could stand to offer more side selections, and those they do ought to meet the quality of chicken they serve.