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Eat & Drink

The great Toronto Caesar challenge: extra horseradish

Posted by Luke Champion / February 18, 2011

Drake CaesarDay two in my quest for Caesar perfection brings me to The Drake Hotel - well, the Drake Café - to be more specific, the little diner connected to the west side of the building on Beaconsfield. Unlike the Drake proper, this place is meant to be a bit more of a low-key relaxed affair with a good menu and, hopefully, some pretty great drinks too. It's been on my watch list for awhile just because anytime there's discussion of the best in the city, the Drake will often come up in conversation, even if it doesn't end up making the final list.

Of course, it has its long list of haters too. More than any other establishment in the area, the Drake is controversial. The hotel/bar is often cited as the catalyst for the high level of gentrification in the area. Of course, I'm not here because of any of that. I'm here for a Caesar.

TASTE
At the Drake, they take full advantage of one of the Bloody Caesar's most popular secondary ingredients: horseradish. But this isn't some puny little shaving of fresh horseradish for novelty - this Caesar is loaded with the stuff and is by far the most prominent flavour. I mean, check out that picture, you can see the stuff floating in it.

To me, that's not such a bad thing, I love the stuff. It gives the drink a real pungent freshness. It's a flavour to taste with your whole tongue, right up into your nasal cavity, and the addition of Tabasco and Mados Hot Sauce boosts it up an extra notch. Essentially, it's a glass of cocktail sauce thinned out a little with vodka, which by the way, sounds dynamite! That being said, a little more Worcestershire would have balanced it out a bit, as it gives the drink a real savoury sweetness that just adds heaps of complexity to the flavour.

SCORE: 9/10

PRESENTATION
A little disappointing: three green olives on a skewer and a lime wedge served in a celery salt rimmed pint glass. I expected more from The Drake, the place both lauded and blamed for dragging West Queen West out of its desolate, skid row wasted days and lacquered up for the nightclub crowd. A place so focused on design and appearance should offer the same in their cocktails, no? I mean, fair enough, I was at The Drake Café, but still. Not even a celery stalk? Come on Drake, really, come on.

SCORE: 2/5

ORIGINALITY
I've got to give a few points for the horseradish, I realize it's a pretty common ingredient, but to punch it up this much is nice. Like I said, it's cocktail sauce with vodka. As a matter of fact, if they had thrown a couple of shrimp on that skewer they'd have had a bangorang cocktail and we could probably stop the search right here and now.

SCORE: 3/5

VALUE
Bad news. The Drake wants $11 for this Caesar and unless that's some fair trade, organic, Kobe horseradish they're adding to the drinks, or a couple of ounces of Grey Goose, I'm calling shenanigans. Those olives floating on top are the grocery store variety, the horseradish is also from a jar; there's just nothing to warrant it and really, if you're going to gouge me at least make the thing pretty.

SCORE: 1/5

TOTAL SCORE: 15/25 (60%)
Ok, so once again it's the price that totally skews the final score, well that and the lack of presentation in this case. The thing is, if this cocktail was fancied up a little bit it might even warrant the price tag. It's good, really good, but when it gets plopped down on the table it looks like something you might pick up at a Firkin and I doubt the Firkin would be asking $11.

Previously:

Day 1: The challenge begins

Discussion

23 Comments

rexdale / February 18, 2011 at 09:35 am
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Great caesers but pricey!
Kimberlee / February 18, 2011 at 09:37 am
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You should pay attention as to which bar uses the traditional (and best) BOTTLED Clamato juice and who uses the GUN juice for their Caesars. There is a HUGE difference between the two and some would say that the gun actually ruins the drink....something to think about!
Kevin / February 18, 2011 at 09:43 am
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Does the drake not have 4 different types of caesars you can choose from?
Also if anyone orders a caesar with grey goose they have to be a complete idiot, well any mixed drink with grey goose is just a complete waste of money with the exception of soda water.
It would be really nice to see a review on oyster boy's caesar as well as the bellevues caesar, both are top notch in my books and kudos goes to oyster boy on the copious fresh horse radish!
Alch / February 18, 2011 at 09:43 am
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Yep, the gun ruins the drink. Clamato from the bottle is less cloying and a bit more natural shade of red.
Kevin replying to a comment from Kevin / February 18, 2011 at 09:44 am
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Does the drake not have 4 different types of caesars you can choose from?
Also if anyone orders a caesar with grey goose they have to be a complete idiot, well any mixed drink with grey goose is just a complete waste of money with the exception of soda water.
It would be really nice to see a review on oyster boy's caesar as well as the bellevues caesar, both are top notch in my books and kudos goes to oyster boy on the copious amounts of fresh horse radish!
k / February 18, 2011 at 09:55 am
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oyster boy has a bomb caesar and so does the bellevue.. it's
like we're soulmates kevin.

let's hope the rest of the caesars you review have horseradish in them!
James / February 18, 2011 at 10:01 am
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My new catchphrase: if you're going to gouge me at least make the thing pretty

Amazing.
Bloody Hell / February 18, 2011 at 10:44 am
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The Foggy Dew makes a delicious one.
Plus you still get the mini pepperoni stick!!

Boom...goes the dynamite!
stanthemanchan / February 18, 2011 at 11:03 am
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I hope you're planning on checking out Fynn's of Temple on King and their Smokehouse Baconator Caesar.
best caesar / February 18, 2011 at 12:11 pm
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best Caesar is at the lakeview diner
Luke replying to a comment from Kimberlee / February 18, 2011 at 01:39 pm
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This was brought up in the comments yesterday, the majority - if not all - of the places on the list use Clamato from the jug, so unless otherwise mentioned assume that's the case. I may check out a place that uses the gun, just for the sake of comparison, but yeah, if it isn't mentioned it's from the jug.
Luke replying to a comment from James / February 18, 2011 at 01:46 pm
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It works in a variety of situations =)
L / February 18, 2011 at 02:17 pm
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Plum assignment-I want your job. Agree on the drake caesar. Meh, for the price. Shenanigans, indeed. Lucky you got olives - when I went for it last summer, it was a busy time and they didn't even bother with that. Looking forward to more reviews, and I hope you include swan (best value-huge glass), czehoski (novel addition of red wine), gladstone (on some brunches, you get a whole bouquet of garnish)... Will you recap with a list?
Rita / February 18, 2011 at 03:28 pm
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Swan has my favourite Ceasar in the city. So far...
Mel / February 18, 2011 at 03:37 pm
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I have to humbly suggest Three Speed at Bloor between Dufferin and Lansdowne! Big chunky rimmed glass, smooth clamato with lemon juice, not too much ice, made to order with loads of horseradish and worchestershire sauce, and topped with a citrus, hot pepper, olives and- if you're lucky - a pepperette. Just delicious.
Kirsten / February 18, 2011 at 03:45 pm
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Jon at the Swan makes the BEST DAMN CEASER IN TOWN...

Close second is Three Speed!
Carlos / February 18, 2011 at 03:46 pm
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Amazing Caesar at Easy!
keven / February 18, 2011 at 04:10 pm
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Hair of the Dog in the village has amazing Ceasars
Luke replying to a comment from L / February 18, 2011 at 04:17 pm
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For sure, once the series is done I'll do a recap of the best and worst of the bunch.
Jamie / February 18, 2011 at 07:32 pm
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The Crooked star has a similar Caesar to this. Very horseradishy. Intense flavour. similar to the drakes but less expensive.

Personally speaking, things I like to see on caesar's that set them apart:

-celery is a bullshit vegetable, try a pickle, pepproccini's or another pickled hot pepper as a garnish.

- I usually hate the rimmer, way to salty/tacky tasting. Try a premium or high end salt and spice blend (would have to be a house blend) for the rimmer.

-I've seen an old fat quarterback have an annual Caesar fest, where he marinates the vodka in various vegetables, so the flavour of the vegetables would infuse into the vodka. For a redneck, that is pretty classy.
Emcee / February 19, 2011 at 01:04 pm
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I think a nice jumbo shrimp as a garnish would be perfect!
basementdweller replying to a comment from Kimberlee / February 21, 2011 at 01:45 pm
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Kimberlee is right! Gun juice is for the amateurs.
Johanna / February 24, 2011 at 03:14 pm
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It's been a while since I had drinks in this neighbourhood but Lot 16 used to have a list of different caesars - one made with fresh dill, etc. They were all fantastic!

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