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Eat & Drink

The Windsor Arms and JP Challet's Next Act

Posted by Barbora Simek / February 18, 2010

Windsor ArmsFresh off his battle against Deputy Mayor Joe Pantalone, Chef Jean Pierre Challet is full of inspiration and is ready to teach Torontonians a thing or two about dining.

After designing and opening the kitchen in the Windsor Arms over ten years ago, chef JP Challet is returning to the boutique hotel to open his restaurant, Ici. Along with partners Jennifer Decorte and Peter Tsang, Challet plans to open his restaurant with a concept that could very well spell the death of fine dining in Toronto.

"In a way, I don't really believe in fine dining," said Challet, who plans to price his menu at an affordable $60 per meal. While Challet plans to do away with higher price points, he maintains that service and quality of food and wine will remain of utmost importance. "For me the biggest challenge is to make the people in Yorkville, and in Toronto, to say, 'We don't want to be too expensive,'" he said.

Ici at the Windsor Arms will feature a short menu of seven appetizers, seven mains and five desserts. Focusing on food and wine pairings, featuring Canadian products and wine, the menu will rotate every month and a half. While Challet believes strongly in Canadian, local and seasonal produce, he will not be shy to source outside of a 200 mile radius.

"Some people put on their menu,"200 mile menu" and then serve you a tomato in January. Where are you going to get a tomato around here this time of year?" said Challet. "I believe in staying Canadian, but we must go from East to West." While staying devoutly local will not be top priority at Ici, promoting Canadian wine will be.

"People do not realize that Ontario has great wine," said Challet. "Look at Le Clos Jordanne," he said, citing the Claystone 2005, a Chardonnay beat out the world's best winemakers in a blind taste-test at the Judgement of Paris last May. "That is a pretty serious achievement," said Challet.

"Most countries that produce their own wine, consume most of their wine, but not here," he said. This is something Challet is actively hoping to change by both promoting Canadian wines and hosting affordable bi-monthly tapas style winemaker dinners.

As he moves forward with his plans at the Windsor Arms, Challet has not given up on his Harbord Street bistro. "Ici [on Harbord] will become Ici Aussi," said Challet. Having attained a hard-to-come-by liquor licence from the city, he nurses two ideas for the space, which he hopes to open in March.

One is to turn Ici Aussi into a French tapas and wine bar. The other is to use the space as a training restaurant for his sous chefs, where his chefs will have the opportunity to run the space with their own menus for three months at a time. With plans like these, it's clear that inspiration is abundant for Challet.

Says Challet, "I always cook the way I like to eat. I always want to make a restaurant the way I like to be a customer."

Discussion

10 Comments

Govt Cheez / February 18, 2010 at 10:09 am
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Ugh. Another poorly written, college-newspaperesque BlogTO foodpost. It's Ici Aussi not freakin' Aussie! I think you might be thinking of Outback Steakhouse. And, while Challet may be a great chef, I doubt he's singlehandedly able to cause the death of find dining anywhere! So glad print's finally dead and evolved into this dreck.
Eeen / February 18, 2010 at 10:31 am
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I didn't do the interviewing here, but I have to agree with Govt Cheez. Are you sure it's not Ici Aussi, rather than Ici Aussie? Aussi in french meaning "also" or "as well". This name would make sense if the new restaurant at the Windsor Arms will be Ici, and the one at Harbord it's sister restaurant. Unless JP Challet has decided to delve into the world of french-inspired Australian cuisine..... Kangaroo bourguignon? Kukaburrah au vin?
DS / February 18, 2010 at 11:11 am
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"Some people put on their menu,'200 mile menu' and then serve you a tomato in January. Where are you going to get a tomato around here this time of year?"

Um, the same place my cucumbers grown in Ontario come from... Greenhouses!

Several of Challet's comments in this article are arrogant and prey upon the less-informed consumer of a decade ago.
agentsmith / February 18, 2010 at 12:06 pm
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So he's going to have a permanent fixed-price menu set at $60. In other words, it's like a full-time Winter/Summerlicious, but priced at $60 instead of $45.

Or to put it another way, $60 = $10-$15 appetizer + $35-$40 main + $10 dessert.

Explain again how this is any cheaper than the norm for higher-end restaurants?
CA replying to a comment from DS / February 18, 2010 at 03:29 pm
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Anybody that tries to sell you an Ontario greenhouse tomato in January is lying. Nobody in Ontario grows tomatoes in January. It's too cold and ther isn't enough sunlight.
Moi / February 18, 2010 at 04:02 pm
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Um...that Chef is crazy...you should hear how he speaks to his staff. Unbelievable.
MJ replying to a comment from Govt Cheez / February 18, 2010 at 08:11 pm
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Coming here and complaining about the quality of writing is like going to McDonalds and expecting something better than a Big Mac. You want quality, pay for it.
yyiiii replying to a comment from Moi / February 19, 2010 at 03:46 am
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anyone whose worked in restaurants can vouch, most chefs talk crazy to their staff from time to time... it's how they stand that infamous 'kitchen heat', i'm guessing. also, anyone working in a kitchen worth their salt, can handle a little pressurized hot air, and live to work another shift. you know what they say, if you can't stand the heat...
Chris / February 20, 2010 at 11:35 am
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Let me make one thing clear about the Windsor Arms. It will never return to its golden years. Reason? George Friedman. Look at how many chefs have come in and out of this establishment over the years. His horrific taste is littered throughout this hotel, in what might possibly be the worst renovation Toronto has ever seen. As a businessman nothing can be taken away from him, but stick to investing and having others make the important decisions for you.
TOreader replying to a comment from Govt Cheez / March 10, 2010 at 11:09 am
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You know why it's a college-newspaperesque piece of writing? Because most of blogTO's contributors are students. Who else is going to do it for $5/ article. You?!

And while we're on the subject, allow a student journalist to copyedit for you:

So glad print's finally dead and -HAS- evolved into this dreck.

When you're prepared to write like a professional you can piss on the students that contribute (for virtually no pay) to city blogs for your enjoyment. God the sense of entitlement!

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