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Eat & Drink

The "Other" Underground Supper Club in Toronto

Posted by Lauren / April 6, 2009

I'm on a street all Torontonians know (I've been asked not to divulge the exact location). And I'm pretty far West. Almost Mississauga West.

I walk up to a non-descript but deliberately chic storefront, windows tinted so that you cannot see inside. No signage. The only indication I have that I am in the right place is the numerical address.

No, this is not the latest Charlie's Burgers event that everyone has been peeing their pants over. And yes, had I been there I probably would have peed my pants too (but responding a mere 5 minutes after the invite's gone out is not quick enough so I did not get in). The off-putting elitist air aside, Charlie's latest event did boast Chef Martin Picard, from the celebrated Montreal resto Au Pied de Cochon and Jamie Kennedy's sommelier Jamie Drummond [EDIT: Martin Picard was not actually at the event. His signature dish "Canard en Conserve" was flown in from Montreal]. Nevermind the who's who of the Toronto food scene who attended the four-hour "eating and drinking orgy."

This is the other underground supper club I reported on last month, The Hidden Lounge. I attended their monthly dinner party the same night as Charlie's event was happening.

But the Hidden Lounge takes a totally different approach. The events are open to anyone in the hopes of attracting a more diverse group, as opposed to the somewhat more elite group that must charm or network their way onto the invite list for Charlie's events. All you need to do is RSVP that you would like to attend (they host monthly dinner parties and dinner service from Sunday-Tuesday) via phone or e-mail.

The Hidden Lounge's owner/Chef, Durant Ellis, did his apprenticeship at North 44 (back in the days when McEwan was still actually cooking) and then spent 7 years at Il Fornello. The Hidden Lounge has been running since May of last year, and has had enough success to move out of Durant's loft on Dupont to a bigger space that once housed a restaurant and is now used exclusively for the Hidden Lounge.

The supper club is a registered business, but since the dinners are technically private functions they have managed to stay in the grey area of the law.

On the night I was there, I dined with 8 strangers. Six of them were somehow affiliated with law enforcement, while the other two were the owners/operators of a Toronto murder mystery dinner theatre company. They had all heard about Hidden Lounge through word of mouth, despite media coverage in publications like the Globe & Mail and the Toronto Star.

The meal was a four course prix-fixe meal for $45 (BYOB), and they were very accommodating for vegetarians. The first course was an espresso brown sugar crusted quail, served atop a cantaloupe and roasted red pepper salad. The veg option was an arugula salad with candied walnut and goat cheese.

20090402---Hidden-Lounge-Gn.jpgThe second course was sweet potato gnocchi with sage almond butter sauce. While the butter sauce was well done, the almonds were MIA. The gnocchi itself was a little tougher than I would have liked it, perhaps because it was made with whole-wheat flour.

20090402---Hidden-Lounge-Ro.jpgNext was a prosciutto roll with arugula, goat cheese and figs. The veg option was a variation of the same, wrapped in rice wrappers instead of prosciutto.

04022009---Hidden-Lounge-Cr.jpgAnd the last course (dessert!) is always my favourite: truffle and banana creme brulee. Ellis offered up an almost pudding like centre with a flaky phyllo-esque shell. The bananas were quite nice, but I couldn't detect any truffle.

As my first underground experience, it was an interesting evening. Dining in an intimate setting with a group of strangers does not appeal to everyone. But our hosts Durant and Jessica were very gracious and once the diners were all sufficiently lubricated the conversation became livelier and people were able to let loose and enjoy the food.

Underground supper clubs have become the food lovers topic du jour, and I will continue try and get into a Charlie's event. In the meantime, I am going to keep on diggin'.

Photos by Lauren Wilson

Discussion

21 Comments

Sheryl / April 6, 2009 at 1:14 PM
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Martin Picard was not involved with the most recent Charlie's Burgers dinner. We were served the signature dish from his Montreal restaurant but he was not present. The wording in your post makes it appear as if he was at the event.

dee / April 6, 2009 at 1:16 PM
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This one sounds like it has a vibe I can get down with. non-elitest. Charlie's just doesn't rub me the right way, but then again, I probably wouldn't be 'accepted' anyway.

Eric / April 6, 2009 at 1:19 PM
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Remind me if this is legal?

Jonathan / April 6, 2009 at 2:10 PM
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I wouldn't want to eat at any rogue restaurant that would have me as a member, except for the delightful "Rogue Restaurant".

Inferno / April 6, 2009 at 2:13 PM
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Wait where is the main course?

dee / April 6, 2009 at 2:15 PM
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sounds like the gnocchi.

Inferno In replying to a comment from dee / April 6, 2009 at 2:20 PM
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I should try it sometime. In terms of food decor, the gnocchi is the only one that looks out of place, or maybe im not a big enough foodie to appreciate it. I still like this entry =)

WhatFood / April 6, 2009 at 3:19 PM
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Durant Ellis worked at North 44? Having worked with him, I highly doubt that. If he did, he didn't learn much. Was it a cooking apprenticeship or a dish washing position?

Knowing Durant, this seems like a bit of a joke. Sounds like someone who can't get the backing to open a restaurant is trying to play "Restaurant". Or this could be a last ditch effort of someone who can not run a kitchen making a last attempt at being a "Chef".
Either way it is a bit sad. How do you make money working these hours (sounds like someone's days off) and charging $45 for a four course meal? Sounds like someone is putting the horse before the buggy.

Ryan L. In replying to a comment from dee / April 6, 2009 at 3:19 PM
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If you can't pretend you're better than everyone else though, why bother going? :P

soren In replying to a comment from Ryan L. / April 6, 2009 at 3:58 PM
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You have a chocolate chip on your shoulder.

Mikey J / April 6, 2009 at 4:15 PM
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I sent a request off to this Charlie's Burger site thinking it would be a fun thing to try. Purposefully not trying hard to impress with my restaurant and food picks and not including restaurants based on their price points, just being honest about what and where I eat. The response I received was so rude and dismissive (mostly over my having Milestones breakfast on my list, I'm hooked on Eggs Milestone people) I sat gasping at my computer in disbelief. I deleted the email and decided not to waste anymore time on these people, until reading this brought whatever it had stirred all back.

Now I have to say something: I think whoever runs this thing should keep their snooty little assumptions in check and not turn such a fun idea into another elitist excuse to put down people for no reason. Not that I would ever go, now that I know the company I’d be keeping.

Matt In replying to a comment from WhatFood / April 6, 2009 at 4:43 PM
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Woah. Easy. Maybe he worked at North after he worked with you. Maybe isn't make a last ditch effort at playing chef, it's simply a need for a shift lifestyle or desire to challenge conventions. Maybe he wants to be his own boss and not answer to an asshole chef or short-sighted owner. What about giving the guy a little benefit of the doubt?

Got Mice? / April 6, 2009 at 4:57 PM
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Looks like they are trying to avoid doing business the legal way. We have a Health Department for a reason, we also pay taxes for a reason. If they are willing to break these rules to make a buck, will they actually care about food safety among other major concerns. Will they serve food that has been federally inspected? Only people that will find out are the customers, hope they don't learn the hard way.

I read the other articles, they bring up a good point regarding liability insurance. So what happens if this couple makes someone sick? Who is going to cover expenses and pay for any losses?

You can't even prep food for a hot dog cart in a reidental Kitchen. They only mention that the current building USED to house a restaurant. No mention of it's current state. When was the last time the building was inspected by the Health Department? We are having a lot of rodent infestations lately. How nice of a place can they rent while paying off a swanky condo and selling $360 in food a night? Got mice?

As WhatFood said earlier; someone PLAYING "Restaurant". Too anxious to go through the proper procedures to run a secessful restaurant. Looks to me like an accident waiting to happen.

Seanrwcrawford / April 6, 2009 at 6:33 PM
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Seriously?

For that small a number of people I highly doubt safety is an issue. Last I checked I've been able to make food quite competently and safely in my own kitchen, which has never been scrutinized by the health department.

Gloria In replying to a comment from Seanrwcrawford / April 6, 2009 at 7:09 PM
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No, but I think the point is that they're selling meals, which probably defines them as a business, which then opens them up to a whole host of regulations and standards that your private kitchen isn't subject to.

Shmarlie In replying to a comment from Gloria / April 6, 2009 at 7:50 PM
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It's not a business, it's a concept. Chefs and sommeliers provide a wondrous gastro experience at cost. If you think they're merely selling meals or that it's elitist then this isn't the sort of thing for you.

Eric In replying to a comment from Shmarlie / April 7, 2009 at 1:17 AM
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"It's not a business, it's a concept." That's adorable. I'm sure their hearts are in the right place but that doesn't mean they can disregard the law. They have the choice of creating a dinner party or a restaurant, not anything in between. Whenever someone's creativity is allegedly involved they seem to think that the law no longer applies to them. If that's not elitist I don't know what is.

JoeF / April 7, 2009 at 1:39 AM
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Those gnocchi look like they were made by an amateur and like something my cat puked up but that's just me and I didn't taste them so I can't have more of an opinion than that.

A private dinner party is one thing but as soon as you pay to be there everything changes. I get the whole idea behind this it just leaves me wondering who they are accountable to if something goes wrong. I am a chef at a small restaurant/bar and I take great pride in getting nothing but green passes from Toronto Public Health. What they are saying is they are above all the rules and regulations put in place for the safety of the public. Who do they think they are?

A In replying to a comment from Got Mice? / April 7, 2009 at 2:44 AM
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Comments from Got Mice and What Food sound like disgruntled owners of an establishment that is nearing extinction.

I've been to a dinner party at Hidden Lounge and was amazed by the cleanliness. I can certainly say other restaurants in the city can learn a few things.

Owners of restaurants in so called "swanky" areas such as Bloor West and the Annex are on notice.

leah / April 9, 2009 at 2:36 AM
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45$ for that?! are you serious? Marc thuet has a tasting menu for that price! i could get a main and share an app. at marc mcewans place for that. that is insane. .. and where was the main? .. couldn't have been the prosciutto roll with arugula, goat cheese and figs. i love the idea of an underground supper club, i got invited to charlie's but that was out of my price range for a student. this one seems more affordable, i just hope the next one has a better menu selection

alberto menendez / April 24, 2009 at 1:20 AM
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I thought the same as Leah actually. That looks nice a nice couple of appetizers up there, but....after I pay 45 bucks and eat that 6 tablespoons of food.... what happens after that? When do we eat??

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