Digging for Underground Supper Clubs in Toronto
They're shrouded in secrecy. They're barely legal. They're maybe even a little elitist. So-called "underground" supper clubs are gaining in popularity in Toronto.
What is this gastro-social phenomenon? Underground supper clubs, or "culinary speakeasies" as they are also known, were originally created with the purpose of providing a uniquely social, secretive and almost deviant way to enjoy dining - one that brings together like-minded strangers who share a love of food and a desire to get out of their comfort zone and mix things up a bit.
The premise for getting into one of these events is pretty simple. You get onto an invite list, you are emailed the details, you show up, pay and enjoy. Seems easy enough to me. Not necessarily so. The popularity of some of these clubs is built upon a definitive air of exclusivity. They require some display of gastronomic charm, cunning or grandeur in order to even get on a waiting list. That's right, only the culinary cognoscenti need apply.
And I thought it was about the food.
The locations (usually private homes), chefs, menus and attendees can vary from event to event, and clubs usually disseminate these details via e-mail a week or so (sometimes hours) before the next event.
When coming up with the initial idea for this post, I struggled with whether I should even write it. I mean, I didn't want to unearth the whole underground supper scene and risk the threat of being labeled a farc (a food narc)!
But as I researched it a bit more I realized it's not a very "underground" scene to begin with. With individual club websites, an exposé from a major culinary magazine and now even books on the topic available from Amazon there isn't really much unearthing to be done.
I know of two "underground" supper clubs in Toronto - The Hidden Lounge and the Anti-Restaurant in TO [insert disclaimer here: there are probably several deep down underground clubs that I don't know of].
The Hidden Lounge doesn't really seem too concerned with who knows about them, and anyone can attend at their fixed location in a downtown loft. While they still host monthly dinner parties, they are now "open" Sunday through Tuesdays and can accommodate private functions, making them more like a restaurant than a supper club. It's a restaurant in someone's private home, where the legality can (and has been) debated. But they circumvent trouble by declaring their events "private parties" (where you BYOB).
The Anti-Restaurant wants only hard-core food heads attending their events, so they make you fill out a short questionnaire that asks for your profession, three favourite restaurants in TO, and what your last meal on earth would be. If you're lucky enough to be deemed a true food lover, then you get on the e-vite list - otherwise tough luck - "it's not for everyone."
Are these exclusive andquirky dinner experiences all they're crackedup to be? Stay tuned. I have a reservation for an upcoming Hidden Lounge dinner party. As for Charlie's... after filling out their questionnaire, I am still waiting to hear back from the Anti-Restaurant.
Let the digging begin.
Photo by Kathryn Lymburner.
Comments (22)
If you're willing to drive up to Collingwood - you can always give Michael Statlander a call. They do dinners two or three nights a week at their 100-acre farm.
Michael & Nobuyo Stadtlander
Eigensinn Farm
RR#2 Singhampton Ontario
NOC 1M0
(519) 922-3128
I don't think there are other 'eateries' I'd want to visit less than ones that are invite only.
I can understand why these are the way they are. It's a controlled environment. The last 2 'nice' restaurants I've been to, where the bill was enough to cover my entire food budget for a week, I've had to put up with children under 5. Personally, I don't get why you'd bring your 3 y/o to a nice restaurant, which is clearly not designed as a 'family' experience. Which seems to be gaining more popularity these days.
At least this way, you can avoid that. It's hard to enjoy a nice meal if you aren't enjoying your experience/environment.
I am aquainted with two people who run one of these. It's private, but not secret, they have a publically viewable Facebook page. They offered to let me join once, but I deferred to Groucho Marx's wisdom.
I am with Kevin on the child thing. I plan to have one soon. I teach children. But it's only immature parents who expect their whelps to be welcome anywhere. Why the hell would you take a child somewhere that is going to bore and frustrate them and cost you for it? Crying child on an airplane, the parents have nothing but my sympathy; crying child in a theatre or fine restaurant, get a babysitter!
The last time I've experienced a loud/misbehaving child at a restaurant was about 6 months ago at Licks. I can't even remember the time before that. I wasn't aware this was an epidemic. Perhaps I've just been incredibly lucky?
I think these private supper clubs are a fantastic idea! Forget about avoiding children, %99.9 of Torontonians are morons, why not weed them out?
I think having a place where people that truly love food and are interested in sharing an experience is much needed in Toronto. Letting Joe Schmoe in is just like a restaurant. Needless to say half the people that go to restaurants would have made the city a better place if they had just stayed home and kept their misery in the comfort of their own livingroom.
@ salty cock and Frank Pierce
No wonder people hate Toronto, when it's filled with attitudes like yours.
re krystyn, thanks for proving my point!
and btw, they hate toronto because it's a toilet run by an NDP mayor where people delude themselves in thinking our resto scene compares to NY, London, LA and Paris.
krystyn. I have been eating out for some time and worked in the business in the past. And trust me when i say. There are plenty of miserable people that go out for dinner. When i good out for dinner i want to have a great time. Even if I've had a bad day a dinner at a restaurant is always a fun experience. Many people aren't like that and that's why i am interested in this sort of thing. I don't want to be annoyed with people complaining about how loud the restaurant is.
Miserable people, meet people commenting on your misery in a manner that can in no way be described as "miserable."
Ohhhh Toronto hip patrol, is there anyone cool enough to sit at the table next to you in a restaurant?
And these double secret supper clubs? Sounds like they'd be a bunch of look at me style pigs standing around trying to impress everybody with their deep knowledge of complicated cheeses. No thanks.
Which McDonald's combo is your favorite?
Like I mentioned before its not for everyone. I am simply defending the idea as there are plenty of people that enjoy talking about food and learning more about it.
Yeah, so with regards to talking about food and learning more about it...
Anyone know of any resources to find other unique dining options - such as the chef-on-a-farm option Jimmy suggested above?
Yes kd. I know of a veggie gorilla resto in kensington. Would that interest you? Some of these things are private because they don't want to be overwhelmed with people emailing trying to come. I can send you the info if you like.
Where's the moral outrage? You people aren't nearly as stodgy and Victorian as I'd like you to be. Seriously though, as was previously mentioned, these are basically speakeasies. I wouldn't be caught dead in one of these things.
The idea sounds cool. But the process ain't for me.
Having some self appointed Toronto food hag measure my level of "foodie" in order to dine at their establishment is a bit rich. Can you imagine James Chatto deciding your food fate? Christ. I'd rather peel my eyelids with a rasp.
oh awesome.
another way to stereotype, judge and discriminate against people.
a bunch of king st w'ers standing around in there overpriced gear, looking exactly like each other.
View More Events
Suggest an Event
Join the blogTO Flickr group
Join the blogTO YouTube Group
RSS