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A trip to Chef Michael Stadtlander's Eigensinn Farm

Posted by Lauren / May 9, 2010

Eigensinn FarmLast Sunday I went out to Chef Michael Stadtländer's Eigensinn Farm in Singhampton. I had never been to Singhampton before - but you may have driven through it on your way to Collingwood, Blue Mountain or Wasaga Beach.

Stadtländer is an internationally renowned chef, whose farm-to-table eatery at Eigensinn was 15 years ahead of the locavore movement now taking hold of the city and has been ranked as one of the top ten best restaurants in the world.

He belongs to a small cult of conscious chefs, Dan Barber and David Kinch among them, that have a strong conviction for expressing in their food the land on which they work.

Eigensinn FarmA third generation farmer himself, Stadtländer grew up in northern Germany. His interest in Canada started there, where he watched NFB documentaries and a CBC series on Manitoulin Island.

After hooking up with Toronto's locavore sweetheart/underdog Jamie Kennedy in Switzerland during the 1980s, the two returned to Canada to run the newly opened Scaramouche. After two of his own restaurant attempts in Toronto failed, and the opportunity to buy his own patch of land presented itself, Stadtländer's struck a deal with a loan shark and Eigensinn Farm was born in 1993.

I was at Eigensinn working for the annual Wild Leek and Maple Syrup Festival, a gathering of (mostly Torontonian) chefs and eaters whose appreciation for wild leeks bring them to the farm for a truly unique eating experience.

Perched up at the back of Stadtländer's 100 acres of land, chefs and cooks from restaurants like Hiro Sushi, Kaseiki Sakura, The Drake, Frank, George Brown's Chef School, Bohmer, Oyster Boy, Earth, Gilead Café & Bistro, and others set up shop under the forest cover. Some set up grill stations over fire pits, while others used huge split tree trunks to create stations from which to serve the 120 or so guests that came in.

The forest floor was covered with wild leeks; you could see the sprouts everywhere. Excited cooks roved the grounds for them, but I kept my nose clean. Stadtländer takes special care in harvesting his ramps sustainably. Their explosive popularity over the last few years means that wild leek populations are over-harvested and are in danger in many areas in Ontario and Quebec.

20090509---George-Brown.jpgWith the star ingredients being wild leeks and maple syrup, there was some amazing food. Many chefs used local fish - mackerel, perch, pickerel, and lake trout to name a few. But there was also beef tongue, pork, goat, and rabbit - all jazzed up with the unique and versatile flavour of ramps.

20090509---Earth.jpgGuests wandered through the woods from station to station and everyone (cooks and guests alike) had a great time. It was the perfect setting. The rustic quality of our surroundings only helped to exemplify the honest approach each chef took in creating their dish for the event.Eigensinn FarmHiro SushiKaiseki SakuraStadtlanderEigensinn Farm

We also got a chance to poke around the farm, checking out the pigs, chickens and roosters that Eigensinn keeps. We hiked around his land and saw the fruits of one of Stadtländer's other passions: art and sculpting.Eigensinn Farm

With the help of his apprentices, Stadtländer closed the restaurant and devoted a whole summer to creating functional works of art - a pig who doubles as a grill, while Mother Earth gives birth to bread and a giant Bacchus made from cement and wine bottles pours wine from a large glass erection.

20100509 - Outdoor Pig Grill.jpg

Eigensinn Farm

Eigensinn Farm


We rounded out the trip (and my stomach) with a pit-stop at Haisai. Stadtländer opened the 28-seat solar-powered bakery and restaurant in Singhampton's main village last year. It is a little less exclusive than the 12-seater farm dinners at Eigensinn, but every bit as authentic with most ingredients coming straight from the farm.

HaisaiThe space is amazing: walls encrusted with plates, ceramics, and shells while Stadtländer's own hand-made pottery and dishware holds the most decadent and delicious baked goods. The Crème D'Amande was so rich with butter it practically poured out of the thing.Creme D'Amande

Meals at Eignesinn are often called "foodie pilgrimages" or "once in a lifetime experiences," and with a $275 price tag you might guess that's why. But Stadtländer has never much fussed about running his farm economically. The cost of doing things in an environmentally and socially conscious way hasn't been cheap, and about 60% of the food he cooks at his restaurants comes directly from the farm.

Canada has been criticized for lacking an identifiable food culture. There have even been debates on whether we should adopt poutine as our national dish. But when you look at guys like Stadtländer, Kennedy, and Chrystian (to name but a few), I think some people just aren't looking hard enough.

Photos by the author.

Discussion

123 Comments

bittles / May 9, 2010 at 02:21 pm
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working at the festival in what capacity?
Lauren / May 9, 2010 at 02:28 pm
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I was working with the crew from George Brown, I'm an alumn of the Chef Training Program.
saltspring / May 9, 2010 at 09:35 pm
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First, it's "Michael".

Second, assuming you are female, that would be "alumna".

Stadtlander is an outstanding chef and a personal friend.

Lauren / May 9, 2010 at 10:36 pm
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Right you are, @saltspring. Thanks for pointing out the errors. They have been fixed.
jr / May 10, 2010 at 12:26 am
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"Stadtländer's struck a deal with a loan shark and Eigensenn Farm was born in 1993."

How exactly do you know there was a loan shark involved? Did you meet him/her?

And, it's Eigensinn.

I know this is a blog but does anyone even TRY to copy edit this stuff?
William / May 10, 2010 at 12:40 am
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What amazingly terrible artwork. Mike should stick to cooking.
pk / May 10, 2010 at 12:46 am
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wow, this is an amazing concept and wonderful treasure! Any idea if they cater small events?
snobs rule / May 10, 2010 at 08:43 am
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I know this is a blog but....

...I guess you don't really appreciate that it's a blog.

melmobarrie / May 10, 2010 at 10:10 pm
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I was there. It was delicious, as always. nuff said
marty replying to a comment from saltspring / May 11, 2010 at 01:11 pm
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OMG!!!!!!! You him PERSONALLY????????? Tell us more. I am on the edge of my seat. OMFG!!!!!

Please, go on SaltSpring...riveting addition to the dialogue indeed.
mark replying to a comment from jr / May 11, 2010 at 01:13 pm
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Right, because so many blogs have copy editors. BlogTO readers really are morons.
t / May 11, 2010 at 05:05 pm
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i guess these days it's ok to get a ton of facts wrong and butcher the english language - if you don't have a copy editor.
Janie / May 11, 2010 at 10:04 pm
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Stop it people. I mean it. What children you are.
Get back to the point........

He is a brilliant Chef! His farm it super cool. And I have been a follower of his since the mid 80's!
Lauren replying to a comment from jr / May 11, 2010 at 11:01 pm
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This article has some of the information referenced in this post. Interesting read on Stadtlander's journey:
http://www.theglobeandmail.com/report-on-business/off-the-map/article785268/
Carolyn Winter / May 20, 2010 at 05:26 pm
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Lovely article! I had no idea such a place existed and the venue pictured above is postive inspiration. It reminds me of that SavorStratford event I attended last September with at least 60 food nibbling stations. I guess there is a lot more of that sort of thing happening now. Still - I have just recently tuned in!

Lauren thank you for the link to the longer article which helped to make more sense of all of the other comments.

Now what's for dinner today?
melissa / September 28, 2010 at 12:55 pm
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I am going for dinner at the Eigensinn Farm this Sunday October 10th and I better not be disappointed considering its 300 pp now!

Anything I should know before I go?
melissa / September 28, 2010 at 12:55 pm
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Apologies, I mean Oct 3, 2010!
Greg ASpa / October 28, 2010 at 11:25 am
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as many of you know, Michael Stadtlander's is the creator of the canadian chef's congress....an event bringing chefs from across the country together to discuss ways to sustain our food supply among many other things .... this year the event was held on providence farm in duncan british columbia ..... i photographed the 3 day event... the photo essay of the event is here: http://doiop.com/1b4zfi
Karl / February 2, 2011 at 02:56 pm
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Michael Stadtlaener one of the top 10 Chefs in the World?
OMG.. can I ask you where have you been to make such a false Statement. NO doubt HE is a TOP CHEF, b u t there are many others way before him - just check out NEW YORK, CHICAGO and L.A. first, before you make such ill conceived statement !! YOU need to do your homework on such false comments!
Lucas / May 4, 2011 at 11:39 pm
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The comment was probably a reference to the FARM getting number 9 in the world in 2002. YOU also need to do YOUR homework.
Heather replying to a comment from saltspring / July 2, 2011 at 01:33 pm
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Easy tiger. They had a fire at the robot factory and had to hire human beings.
X / October 12, 2011 at 11:44 am
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Just wondering why he doesn't pay any of his staff a stipend when he earns so much money from these events? Is all the money earned from FoodStock going to the fight against the quarry or is it going to line the pockets of Michael?
Excited for foodstock / October 16, 2011 at 08:34 am
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That last comment is pathetic! There are times to make money and Foodstock is not one of those times for Michael! If you don't have anything intelligent to say then say nothing! I am soooooo excited for Foodstock!
Greg Aspa / October 16, 2011 at 10:29 am
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On a positive note, I photographed the 2010 Chef's Congress on Vancouver Island, which was a very positive experience. This is an event that Michael Stadtlander started bringing chefs together from across the country to discuss ways in improving our relationship with the nature in order to sustain our food sources for future generations. There are two photo essays on my site of this event, plus a host of other local British Columbia food events including Feast of Fields. Here is the link: http://aspaphoto.com/Events.html Enjoy and remember, the intention of most is good .....
ani akgulian / December 21, 2011 at 02:01 pm
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Lovely, I have to visit the farm as I had heard about it more than 12 years ago & wanted always to have a look?
Is there going to be another Maple Festival as I missed the one of 2011? Thanks.
Ani.
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Don't care how good the food is. $300 for a meal?

That is socially irresponsible.
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