TONO by Akira Back is about far more than food; the new Toronto restaurant is a place where the cocktails smoulder, bold flavours jolt diners to attention, and an ever-changing panorama offers a series of glitzy, golden Yorkville moments.

TONO is a complete experience, discovered one detail at a time.

A second location of a brand first established in Qatar, TONO is also the sister to Michelin-recognized chef Akira Back's eponymous spot on Blue Jays Way.

The focus at TONO, explains executive chef Karen Kim, is on vibrant Nikkei cuisine. "Nikkei has a Japanese base but always with Peruvian touches," she says. Created by Japanese immigrants to Peru, it's a style of food Kim describes as "Japanese soul in Peruvian dishes."

Recipes here are "not 100 per cent Peruvian and not 100 per cent Japanese," she continues, adding that the team focuses on finding fresh and striking ways to combine the precision of Japanese cooking with Peru's wealth of homegrown ingredients.

Spread across W Toronto Hotel's 9^th floor, the restaurant is a sleek reimagining of the space formerly known as Skylight. What began as bohemian has swung toward minimalism, a neutral backdrop for TONO's multi-sensory offerings.

Open from morning until late, the restaurant caters to hotel guests as adeptly as it does to exacting Toronto diners.

Visit in the morning, the sun streaming in, and you'll bask in the warmth of the airy space and attentive service. Later on, as the lights dim, the music thumps and the hiss of robata and ishiyaki draws gazes from around the room, you'll feel the full force of TONO's name, a word which translates to "party," in Peruvian slang.

"The party in TONO is mingling, people connecting. We want you to make this restaurant somewhere where people are connecting and gathering," says Kim.

Huddled in corners, or elegantly propped up on lounge-style seating at the heart of the sexy space, diners cheer to good times over the team's considered cocktails and zero-proof options.

Divided into four categories — TONO's World Signature, Tea Travel, Oriental Botanicals and Arukoru-No — they were created specifically for the locale, infused with Japanese spirits, references to legends, travel and memory.

Served in a chilled tokkuri cradled in a handmade box, thanks to its sake base, Satori ($33) is a fruity, floral blend of pandan vodka, mango, passionfruit, cranberry and vanilla. Named for the legend of Satori, the drink for two combines a clear base with an explosion of flavour, and is meant to help clear the mind, says assistant general manager, Elnur Derbas.

From the Oriental Botanicals section, Kyoto Groove ($25) and Wakayama 1920 ($23) lean heavily on herby, vegetal notes for their precise impact.

Despite a lengthy list of ingredients that jumps from gin and yuzu sake, to ginger liqueur, matcha and lime, the first is a balanced drink inspired by Kyoto's bustle. In the second, mezcal brings the funk to a base of umeshu, with Campari and kaffir lime adding tongue-rousing depth.

A non-alcoholic option that bucks the category's notorious ho-hum rep, Smoke Over Toronto ($17) is served majestically under a tall cloche, shrouded by a thick layer of applewood smoke. The reveal—a graceful yet commanding gesture performed slowly so as not to be missed by the cameras—is dramatic enough to turn heads.

"Simple but very delicious," according to Derbas, the mix of Earl Grey-infused apple juice, kaffir lime and honey won't leave you speechless, but does reveal a laudable level of care.

Diners craving more spectacle will delight in a menu designed to awaken each of the senses. As far as ingredients go, fire is a fave, with more than a handful of dishes sizzling, smoking and flickering their way to the table.

"We want to ensure that dining here isn't just about the food but about the whole experience," emphasizes Kim.

Served in a glass-topped box, TONO Cigars ($28) start things off nicely. Stuffed with tiger prawns, with jalapeño yogurt and sesame ash, these stogies are curtained in a cloud of smoke that rapidly dissipates as the container lid is opened.

Less head-turning but more memorable, flavour-wise, TONO Tartare ($29) can be made with wagyu or bluefin tuna. Seasoned with kicky ahi amarillo, aka, Peru's most popular pepper, it's topped with yuzu pear gel and jalapeño avocado mousse, then surrounded by a moat of creamy poke sauce. Layered onto crispy rice paper dusted with nori powder, it's an eyes-closed type of starter.

A chef favourite, Mixed Ceviche ($28) swims in a pool of savoury, spicy, citrus-laced leche de tigre. Classic in most ways, its surprise is in the vehicle the team devised for getting each ceviche morsel to your lips. "Akira wanted to add a Canadian touch to the dish, so we serve it with ketchup tortilla chips," enthuses Kim.

Given the Japanese side of the team's culinary foundation, that they excel at prepping and plating assorted sushi, sashimi, and special rolls is no surprise. Still, made from the freshest ingredients and, at times, brightened with unique touches, they're worth sampling.

There's a by-the-book TONO Sushi and Sashimi Platter ($MP), loaded with the chef's selection of seafood.

Maki Picchu ($28), meanwhile, is a signature roll crafted from charred yellowtail and topped with yuzu kosho aioli. Torched tableside, natch, its spring onions and micro-chives curl and char, lending each bite a subtle whisper of smoke.

Diners keen to get in on the cooking can order the Hot Stone Ishiyaki ($42), then delicately sear their own A5 wagyu and marinated king oyster mushrooms between bracing sips of sake.

Are there a lot of Japanese restaurants in Toronto? Undoubtedly. Few, however, celebrate Japanese cuisine as seen through a Peruvian lens.

"Toronto is very familiar with Japanese cuisine. But there's something exotic and different here," notes Kim. "I'm very happy to bring that to Toronto."

TONO by Akira Back is located at 90 Bloor Street East, on the 9^th floor of W Toronto Hotel.