ORO Luxury Dining in Toronto is a new restaurant from a celebrity chef, centred around a concept that's never been seen before.

Chef Hemant Bhagwani needs nearly no introduction.

He's been the driving force behind over 60 restaurants worldwide over the course of his storied career, and, for Toronto's part, he's the force behind King East's Bar Goa, a staple on the city's Michelin Guide.

For his latest trick, Bhagwani has taken on Little Italy with ORO Luxury Dining, an ambitious concept that defies categorization — and that's all by design.

Bhagwani tells me that ORO is the ultimate culmination of his creative abilities. While concepts like Bar Goa and now-closed Leaside favourite Amaya have been more fixed in their cuisines, ORO is flexible.

The restaurant was literally designed to be in a constant state of metamorphosis, with menus set to rotate roughly by season, following an episodic format like it's a television show.

The inaugural menu, for example, is entitled "Episode One," and revolves around a blend of Mediterranean and Indian cuisines, apt for Bhagwani to flex his bread-and-butter before departing to different influences.

Every year or so (a "season," in ORO time), the restaurant's entire concept will change over, too, but I'm getting ahead of myself.

Right now, the restaurant is on "Season One, Episode One."

The main dining room is an opulent yet intimate space, with gold-accented fixtures and textured walls reminiscent of a palace interior, while the menu, made up of shareable small plates, consists of dishes that pay homage to Bhagwani's Indian heritage with Mediterranean twists abounding.

One of the more unique offerings at an already one-of-a-kind restaurant is ORO's tableside martini service, where your bartender brings the bar to you.

An ornate cart, piled high with vodka, gin, bitters and garnishes of all flavours and intensities, is parked next to your table, while your bartender guides you through a veritable Myers-Briggs test of martini preferences.

In the end, you're bestowed with your own distinct martini creation. Quite the way to kick off an evening.

Sufficiently buzzed, it's time to get into the food. ORO offers both four- and seven-course tasting menus at palatable prices of $65 and $95, respectively, with the option of wine pairings for an additional $10 per course.

Alternatively, you can opt to order a la carte.

The Yellowtail Crudo ($24) is an homage to Bhagwani's childhood spent drinking shikanji, a type of spicy lemonade that's popular in India. 

In this dish, the lemonade, decidedly less sweet and tangier than that which you may be expecting, acts as a dressing for lush slices of Yellowtail, topped with a generous dusting of cumin and puffed quinoa for crunch.

Bhagwani describes the smoked Avocado Tartare ($21) as his masterpiece, and I'm inclined to agree with him.

Served under a dome filled with a cedary smoke, the so-called "tartare" doesn't feature any meat at all, but still, somehow, manages to be just as satisfying as its carnivorous cousins.

The smoky flavour seeps into supple chunks of avocado, only to be abruptly cut by refreshing chunks of apple, tomato and pomegranate seeds. It's served with a side of sago crisps, reminiscent of Indian papadams, which aren't particularly flavourful on their own, but, with the punch that this dish packs, they really don't need to be.

A personal favourite is found in the unexpected Mazara Hummus ($26), which combines a smooth, rich hummus with a heaping pile of shrimp, calamari and fried okra.

This dish, Bhagwani explains, is inspired by one he tried on a trip to Dubai. The combination of seafood and hummus, he tells me, was a revelation he knew he had to replicate once back on home soil. I wholly see the vision.

It certainly helps that the dish is served with naan, which, if I'm being honest, is good enough on its own that you could serve me a bowl of dirt with naan on the side and I'd ask for seconds.

But this isn't dirt. It's a beautiful bowl of seafood glistening under a liberal drizzle of chili oil that'll have you double and triple-dipping.

The Black Cod ($37) is Bhagwani's take on a classic, and it's one that is executed with elegance and delicacy.

Where the flavours across much of ORO's menu are loud and punchy, this dish sings a softer song. A mild coastal curry base awakens the flavours in a crispy-skinned cod fillet and mussel garnish without overpowering the protein's natural flavour.

The Burrata ($26) is a similarly guaranteed crowd pleaser. 

Everyone (save for the lactose intolerant) can get behind a good burrata, and ORO's is made all the more special when served atop a bed of saag-inspired creamy spinach with a garlic naan, drenched in ghee, on the side for dipping.

It's the perfect dish to share over cocktails with your crew.

Speaking of cocktails, those at ORO are served with the same level of theatricality and attention to detail as the dishes.

Here, hidden behind a cloud of smoke, is the Cucumber and Mezcal, a riff on the classic spicy margarita with punchy cucumber flavour and a chili rim.

Unlike your favourite streaming service, this isn't an episode that can be replayed. Once Episode Two begins, roughly around January, Bhagwani estimates, the first menu will be gone for good, so you're going to want to book your reservation before it's too late.

Take it from me, this is one show you won't be able to resist binge-watching.

Oro Luxury Dining is located at 501 College St.