Liliana is a thoroughly Toronto restaurant. A place that reveres Italian cuisine through innovation, not mimicry, it's unpretentious, mellow and unquestionably unique.

For executive chef and owner, Marvin Palomo, Liliana is both a first step and the outcome of years spent climbing the culinary ranks.

"Liliana is named after a chef I worked for in Italy," he explains. "We are an Italian restaurant also focusing on Asian influence. It's a reflection of everywhere I've worked in Italy and Asia and all the chefs I've worked for, as well."

Opened in late September, the restaurant marks Palomo's first time venturing out on his own. Its deep roots, though, stretch across the globe, strengthened by knowledge handed down and lessons learned.

"Liliana was the first chef I worked for in Italy," adds Palomo. "She was a huge inspiration into how I work as a chef and how I treat others, and my view on hospitality. …This is all paying homage to where it all started for me."

Deeply personal, the restaurant is "a reflection of everywhere I've worked and the people who've inspired me, not just through their food but their hospitality." Most recently, Palomo served as executive chef at Vela for three years.

The type of spot that feels familiar the moment you step inside, Liliana relies on the cozy bones of its heritage home for its undeniable charms. Under the glow from a clutch of paper lanterns, the severity of concrete and brick walls melts into something warm and welcoming.

Named for flowers, house cocktails are made with a range of botanicals. In the Carnation ($22), a base of coconut, lime and grapefruit is spiked with rum, cacao hojicha Aperol and red vermouth.

Smacked with citrus, the Marigold ($23), features a blend of olive oil-washed mezcal, kefir-infused Fino sherry and white port.

Abstainers currently have three non-alcoholic options to choose from, including a vat of grapefruit-flavoured, effervescent refreshment dubbed the Willow ($15).

Divided between antipasti, primi, secondi and contorni, Liliana's menu immediately feels classically Italian. Take a closer look, and mentions of Szechuan demi and umeboshi, dashi vinaigrette and xoxo sauce make it clear that this is something else.

Beyond its nods to Filipino, Chinese and Japanese cuisine, the restaurant's cuisine is also halal. "It was an intentional choice to only serve 100 per cent halal certified meat," says Palomo. "We don't want to limit Muslim guests from this type of experience. … We wanted to be able to welcome everybody."

Layered atop miso chili emulsion, Beef Carpaccio ($24) is topped with furikake and pearl onion petals for a luxurious starter with bright pops of flavour.

From a list of house-made pastas, brown butter-dressed, honeynut squash-stuffed Ricotta Agnolotti ($28) huddle close to a fluffy pouf of fontina fondue in what may be the restaurant's richest dish.

A fan favourite, Aglio e Olio ($28) is a punchier, snappier option, its al dente noodles generously coated in chili crisp, then capped off with a pillowy pile of burrata Pugliese.

Inspired by a popular dim sum dish, Chef's Octopus ($45) is made by gently steaming the cephalopod, then quickly frying it in scalding oil. Finished with tamari and togarashi, it's deeply savoury with a texture that falls at the intersection of bouncy, chewy, tender and crisp.

In its appearance, Millefoglie ($18) calls to mind similar local creations. With its black sesame Chantilly and miso caramel, however, the parallels end there.

Supernally buttery, with the classic's requisite crackle, it has a nutty, umami undercurrent. Once again, the chef's bold use of Asian ingredients and knowledge of Italian traditions together produce something singular and surprising.

Liliana is located at 1198 Queen Street West.