Eloise is an elegant newcomer to a stretch of bars and restaurants along Toronto's The Esplanade. A sophisticated alternative to the rowdy catchalls the strip is known for, the new restaurant combines fine dining with a touch of its own brand of sauciness.

Polished and refined, it's hard to believe that Eloise was created from the same DNA as the Old Spaghetti Factory, Scotland Yard Pub, Bar Cathedral, and more. Still, say brothers Graham and Dan Hnatiw, CEO and COO of Esplanade Restaurants respectively, it's precisely this family tree that led them to where they are now.

"I was born into the restaurant industry," says Graham, explaining that it was he and Dan's father who first opened the Old Spaghetti Factory in 1971.

"I spent most of my formative years on the Esplanade," he adds. "My first jobs were here. From dish pit, to busser, to server, to bartender, to management, to all the roles we do now. We've lived and breathed restaurants for decades."

In Eloise, which opened in late August, the duo's goal was to take their years of combined experience to create something entirely new. "My brother and I, this is our first venture together," says Dan. "This is very different to what we've done in the past, but we have confidence in each other. This is right up our alley."

Despite the stark differences between the team's businesses, it's their dedication to customer experience that unites them. "Hospitality is what runs through all of our locations," he adds. 

Designed in partnership with Westgrove and Made by Emblem, Eloise exudes quiet luxury. Done up in a rich monochromatic colour scheme, it's calm and nonchalant, accessorized judiciously with bold artwork and graceful fixtures. "We wanted to set ourselves apart from the competition on the street," explains Graham. "The design was integral to that."

Also essential, he adds, was creating a space where cocktails are as important as the food. "Cocktails are one of the inspirations for the entire project," he explains. "There is beer up and down the street, but no great cocktails or cocktail bars. We put lots of energy into developing the cocktail program itself."

The team had so many ideas, in fact, that the overflow begat Eloise's speakeasy sister, Bar Cart. Accessed directly from The Esplanade or through the restaurant, Bar Cart offers a moody, sultry complement to Eloise's more placid vibe. There, visitors find signature sippers, such as the strikingly crystal clear Espresso Ghost ($22).

At Eloise, cocktails may be less creative but are every bit as excellent. "We didn't try to reinvent the wheel but wanted to focus on offering really great cocktails," says Dan.

The list is a who's who of menu must-haves, from a frothy Whisky Sour ($20) and zesty French 75 ($19) to a well-chilled Negroni ($18).

Wines, he adds, are sourced from across the globe, with a "focus on vineyards and wineries that are female-run."

Led by chef Akhil Hajare, the kitchen team took a "less-is-more" approach in designing Eloise's menu. "We recognized that we wanted to maintain a smaller menu with higher-quality ingredients," explains Graham. "We liked the idea of being able to showcase the best of the city. The city is very international."

Instead of targeting one cuisine, then, the menu jumps from continent to continent, with nods to the seasons and current trends interlaced throughout. Says Dan, "knowing the different establishments that are close by, we tried to find offerings that aren't exactly the same. We wanted to offer things that are unique to the area."

Here, lightly cured Hamachi Crudo ($28) with shiso dressing sits next to a minimalist plate of fat Ravioli ($30) plumped with silken honeynut squash.

A dish Graham calls a "sleeper hit," Grilled Cabbage ($16) is the edible equivalent of turning a sow's ear into a silk purse. Tenderized and crisped, then flavoured with koji butter, mushroom XO and chives, the upgraded veg feels wholly disconnected from its humble origins.

Sitting atop a tidy pile of spinach and a buttery pool of vermouth-laced velouté, Dover Sole ($78) is light, sweet and fresh.

Puckery and bright, Lemon Parfait ($18) is an ideal finale. Dig beneath its lofty cordillera of toasted Italian meringue, and discover a varied landscape of golden graham crumbs, zingy lemon curd, Earl Grey jelly and fresh citrus supremes.

An alternative to the kitsch and commotion of the Old Spaghetti Factory, Eloise invites diners to rediscover the Esplanade, the Hnatiw brothers' favourite part of the city.

"It's in the downtown core but on a side street. It's the best patio street in the city. It's close to Union Station, close to St. Lawrence Market, Berczy Park and some of the best entertainment venues in the city." In short, gushes Graham, "it's Toronto's best-kept secret."

Eloise is located at 42 The Esplanade.