Cops is a stripped-down project from the people behind Baddies that deals solely in drip coffee and donuts.
That’s right: you won’t find any flat whites or cappuccinos with rippling latte art here, though Aussie brunch spot Baddies is known for epic avocado toasts and hot cakes.
That’s not to say an intense level of care isn’t put into every detail of the simplistic concept, right down to the particular shade of pink the entire place is awash in.
Owner Alex White wanted more of a blush pink, not exactly a “millennial pink,” not something too clean. He worked with Sarah Lavigne of The Custom Table Company for minimalist custom bleacher benches, shelves, and metal grate “skins” for brewing equipment.
White chose to partner with Monogram from Calgary, wishing to showcase a North American roaster having really enjoyed their coffee and wanting to focus on specializing in tasty drip.
Yes, the bags are custom to match Cops’ pink theme, and are $19 to take home.
Notes on them inform me the roast is a washed heirloom variety of bean from Ethiopia, supposedly with jasmine, peach and bergamot flavours.
All I taste is full-bodied, roasty coffee ($2.60), maybe a touch of the jasmine and bergamot in the aroma. Thankfully for me drip is perfect for those with simpler tastes, though it’s nice that those with a finer palette and those simply seeking a caffeine boost will be equally satisfied.
Donuts ($3.75 for a half dozen, $6.75 for a dozen) are Tiny Tom’s style, made in house.
There are always two varieties, cinnamon sugar and a glaze that will rotate.
I try a horchata-inspired glaze made with almond and beet, very subtly flavoured but slightly sweet and with, of course, a beautiful ruby pink colour.
All donuts are finished off with a hit of Himalayan pink sea salt, which adds just a touch of lip-smacking savoury flavour to the puffy, sweet fried donuts.
They also offer “Stakeout Packs” of 60 mini donuts and 10 coffees (3 litres), appropriate for 10 people.
Obviously, the idea for Cops goes hand-in-hand with Baddies, and when trying to think of something to pair with coffee and how to conceptualize that, the whole thing just makes sense.
Just remember, like Baddies, there’s no WiFi in here (talk to your friends) and they’re closed Sundays.