GTA Tripping: Turning Japanese in High Park

Filed in Travel
May 9, 2009

High Park HanamiIt was at a bar last week that I first became interested in learning about the cherry blossom, or sakura. I was with a new Japanese friend who was wrestling with her limited English, attempting to explain a certain emotion. It was brought on, she said, when she saw the sakura at night. Eventually she described the feeling as "awful."

And then, "Fear. But beautiful."

She was trying so hard to get her meaning across. I was humbled and flattered at her effort. This sweet feeling, in combination with that beguiling description, compelled me to dig deeper.

Hanami, I learned, was the Japanese pastime of "flower watching," an important part of spring and something she'd done and loved every year of her life. This year is her first year abroad, and though she feigned nonchalance, it looked as though she was a little homesick talking about it.

Which is when I accidentally summoned my inner hero and remembered hearing that Tokyo had given a gift of sakura trees to Toronto in the 1950s; a gesture of goodwill, apparently.

When I mentioned it the clouds on her face parted and she beamed brightly. It would be perfect: she wouldn't be denied a special tradition, and I'd have the chance to do something quintessentially Japanese with the perfect guide. High Park hanami, here we come...

En route, she asked where we'd grab the requisite bento boxes and the bottle of sake. It was like if I was joining my buddies for road hockey and someone asked about a stick. Right! I pretended I knew what I was doing.

High Park HanamiArriving at the park, the first thing I noticed was that the place was swarming with people. Photography seemed to be the main event here with picnicking a close second. I looked over at my hanami guide expecting her to be turned off by the hoards, but she just smiled.

Hanami, she explained, directly translates to "flower watching," but in Japan nobody really notices the blooms. The food and drink were paramount, she said, and the gorging around us was most definitely culturally accurate in the context.

She seemed completely at home. After a few dozen photos we grabbed a plot of grass and set to the eating and drinking.

High Park HanamiLooking around us, I tried to see the scene through my friend's eyes. Japan being as ethnically and culturally homogeneous as it is, I thought our multi-hued version of hanami must be weird for her. Like replacing the background of the Mona Lisa with that of another painting, or playing Anarchy in the UK on the mbira.

But she was entrenched in the experience, enjoying the atmosphere and the sake. With her swigging the bottle impressively, I decided it was time to repay her generous cultural introduction by sharing a time-honoured Canadian tradition: drinking in public.

She turned a bit pale when I told her that what we'd been doing was technically illegal, but she relaxed when I relayed the secret, which of course, is to be discreet. Or rather, she remained pale for some time while I went through an elaborate pantomimed explanation of what the word "discreet" meant, and then she became relaxed.

The blossoms were beautiful (and as of this publication should still be enjoying a final day or so), but the most shocking cultural experience came from people, not flower, watching. I'd been to Japan, could handle the sake and raw fish, but here, in High Park on a Sunday afternoon, I found myself immersed in a culture much more alien to me: children.

I realized sitting there that in my day-to-day comings and goings, I rarely see parents and their offspring. They just don't tend to roll strollers into the shitty bars I seem to hang out in, I guess, and I've yet to see anything made by Evenflo or Graco in the market where I buy my instant noodles.

While having children had always seemed to me to be something other people did, the distinct discomfort they raise in my soul was amplified here by the fact that I am getting older and many of the parents looked like me. Could I have one of these myself one day? They were adorable, and any excuse to run around on the grass like an idiot would certainly be A-OK with me.

High Park HanamiAnd then I noticed that whenever the children wandered a few steps away from their parents, Mommy and Daddy didn't concern themselves so much with their children's safety and whereabouts, but instead furiously seized that brief instant for a bracing breath of solitude. Staring at a point in space, Daddy'd take a concentrated swig of his juice box in peace.

I shuddered and raised my gaze back to my friend and then to the flowers. Even in the daylight: fear, but beautiful.

High Park Hanami.jpg

HJ on May 9, 2009 at 11:03 AM

Oh,my...I LOVE sakura.I was tied up all this week.I really wanted to go high park to see cherry blossoms, but I'm glad to read this article.

"Fear. But beautiful"(恐れ,しかし美しい - osore,sikai utsukusii)

Absolutely.
Right, almost exact expression. I used to have a feeling of awe when I saw cherry blossom in Korea. It's sometimes TOO beautiful, so I had to hold my breath and I was overwhelmed by crystals of snow-white, cherry blossoms! There were my cherry blossoms in my neighborhood. I see cherry blossoms alone at midnight sometimes, but it's short time(u know,about 1 week)to enjoy cherry blossom..They are gone too fast, but I think that's an attraction of cherry blossom. That's one of reasons why I love cherry blossom. I collect a leaf of cherry blossom every spring and keep it in a tiny glass bottle, but I couldn't get it this year..anyway.

It's true "Hanami" means something big to Japanese. Most Japanese are enthusiastic about Hanami.They stay the night in a park to keep their seat, usually under a cherry blossom tree.

In my opinion, it seems that a short period of blooming cherry blossem is like human's blooming time in their life.

Both are momentary, but b-e-a-utiful.(瞬間の時間でも美しい - shunkanno jikan demo utsukusii)

Good work, good impression-!

Smeg on May 9, 2009 at 11:31 AM

Are the blossoms still out? The article seems to have been written last Sunday (May 3) as opposed to today (May 9).

Christopher on May 9, 2009 at 11:36 AM

@ HJ: Thanks for the comments!

@ Smeg: In all likelihood they're just wrapping up the show for the season, but it is possible that they're still out. Can anyone confirm either way?

s10 on May 9, 2009 at 11:43 AM

You should have brought me. I love flowering trees.
I expect the blossoms are presently being obliterated, unfortunately.

Sniderscion on May 9, 2009 at 1:31 PM

The Photography link you provided was for last year's shots in the blogTO Flickr pool; there were some great shots taken this year as well:
http://www.flickr.com/search/groups/?q=cherry%20blossoms%20high%20park%202009&w=26909951%40N00&m=pool

I was there last Thursday and the main show is done but if you go to the south end of the park there were still a few trees in full bloom.

jimbo on May 9, 2009 at 1:31 PM

nice article...can't believe the sakura blossom so late in canada, but it looks like it's worth it.

christine on May 9, 2009 at 4:27 PM

would you guys say that it's worth going down there even though only a few trees are in full bloom now?

Ting on May 9, 2009 at 5:36 PM , replying to a comment from christine

I went on Friday and all the trees along the path were already out of bloom :( However, there were one or two trees with some flowers left.


I took some pictures, you can see them on my Flickr...but you will notice that they are mostly macro shots since the tree as a whole is a tad underwhelming.

Alex on May 9, 2009 at 5:39 PM , replying to a comment from christine

Maybe, but you're paying for the gas.

Sniderscion on May 9, 2009 at 9:16 PM

Christine;

There are a few trees with blooms but nothing like the images that you see. There are a few other things in bloom so it's still a nice walk in the park.

There are blooms out in other parts of the city (the trees at York university for example) but they're not as intense as the ones here.

Sar on May 9, 2009 at 10:41 PM

I bet the hail did a number on the blossoms this afternoon :(

CTV reported penny-sized hail in Toronto today but I had golf-ball sized ones at Avenue and Lawrence - they hung around on the ground until well after lunch, slowly melting. They did some major damage to the beautiful red blossoms of the japonica across the street from me.

Woong on May 9, 2009 at 11:02 PM

Oh looks great. I wish I've been there.. actually when I went to Highpark to see blossoms at Friday but I saw only a few.. It was too late. and I will try to drink outside like you.

jack on May 10, 2009 at 9:19 AM

恐れ,しかし美しい .. would this phrase be translated to..."it is so beautiful to the extent that they look scary?"

too bad I didn't know we can do Ohanami in toronto..maybe next year..

MissWolverine on May 11, 2009 at 3:18 AM

sigh... I'm moving back to Toronto soon, and I cant believe I'm missing this. So beautiful, wish I was there now...

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