Vogue Supperclub. When I see the words supper club, what comes to my mind instantly is overly fussy food, expensive drinks, and poor service. Not so is the case with Vogue, sitting prominently on the corner of Liberty Street and Mowat Avenue in Liberty Village, and catering to an upscale clientele with its relaxing decor, Saturday night dance floors, and a simple but effective menu.
After its grand opening last November Vogue hopes to succeed where No Regrets Restaurant and Lounge failed before it.
As I step downstairs into the small, intimate dining room dimly lit by red chandeliers, the exposed brick walls, high ceilings, wood-clad pillars and deep cushioned benches exude style and comfort.
Plates of freshly-sliced foccacia with herb butter arrive to suppress my hunger pains, while drink and food orders are taken by iPad-toting servers.
From the Preview menu we started with:
Seared Calamari ($11) | Well-seasoned slices of grilled squid served on a bed of dressed greens and a tomato, olive and caper salsa that accentuated the dish nicely.
Sliders ($15) | A trio of delicious, miniature beef burgers with melted St. Agur blue cheese, truffle and red wine demi-glace that was quite unique.
Mac & Cheese ($15) | The savoury carb-filled heavyweight from the Preview section, cooked with double-smoked bacon, aged cheddar and gruyere cheeses, and served in a mini cast iron skillet.
Lobster Risotto Fritters ($12) | Crispy fried spheres with saffron aioli; perhaps the least impressive of our orders, though giving off a pleasant aroma.
Next came the Features:
Steak Frites ($26) | An aged eight-ounce Angus strip loin served with Vogue's wonderfully different Vegas Frites: rough-cut fries tossed with parsley, garlic, parmesan cheese and truffle oil.
Half Chicken ($22) | Herb-Roasted and served on top of garlic mashed potatoes with spring vegetable garnish.
Seared Salmon ($23) | Pan-seared Atlantic salmon with citrus butter and champ (traditional Irish mashed potatoes with green onions).
Vogue also offers a $40 Prix Fixe five-course menu for parties of eight or more if you call ahead.
Although some dishes were quite imaginative and most courses were flavourful, the mains were a bit disappointing due to the lack of sufficient sauce to keep them moist and interesting.
Salads tended to be slightly over-dressed, and some of our party found the Salmon and the accompanying champ mashed potatoes to be far too oily.
Service was quite attentive and friendly, though could have been faster with drink refills.
Free parking is a plus, and I'd recommend going on Saturday when the dance floors are open, and having dinner waives the $15 cover.
Overall the meal was enjoyable but not incredible. I would order the Calamari and Steak Frites again, but will not be rushing back to Vogue.
Writing and photos by Alex Kovach