Monday, November 30, 2015Mostly Cloudy 0°C

Rush Hour

Posted by Jerrold Litwinenko / Reviewed on February 16, 2009 / review policy

rush hour cauliflower soupRush Hour is a relatively new addition on an unassuming corner in Davenport. A notch and a half up from homestyle cooking, they serve hearty and nutritious food in a casual atmosphere with a casual approach. It's not exactly fine dining, and prices reflect this. Dinner for four, with apps, entrees and wine comes in at around $40 per person taxes and tip in. Having had a great first meal there back in December, we figure it's worth another visit, and we bring friends.

One thing diners should know is that portions at Rush Hour are generous (I'm reminded of the many times I've eaten with old world family and at European friend's homes). This being our second visit, and knowing this in advance, we still can't help but order an appetizer - all of us deciding to go with a body-warming soup to fight the bone-chilling cold we just came in from.

Points are scored for the funky bowls that draw us into our winter-beater soups ($4). The Carrot Ginger is smooth, lush orange, and the punchy ginger bite is just what I'm looking for. The Cauliflower Cream soup is equally good - it's rich, and its flavour robust. Opting for something a little more adventurous, two in our party go for the Shrimp Curry soup, and quickly agree - it's a little less curry-rich than anticipated and is a little shy on flavour. We also nibble on the Chorizo Sausage appetizer ($9). It's sliced up and served in a colourful medley of grilled peppers, and we're pleased to find that it's a mildly spiced, delicious and well-prepared sausage.

rush hour chorizo sausage

Service is very attentive and staff friendly, and food and wine-pairing advice is shared comfortably upon request. We elect for one of the Portuguese reds from a wine list that doesn't go super deep on selection, but also doesn't go deep on the wallet ($22). We move on to mains.

rush hour pork tenderloin

The Pork Tenderloin ($18) is a tender, succulent cut - completely smothered in sauteed mushrooms. The grilled peaches are a nice compliment, but being canned, are not up to snuff according to the peach-loving ex-pats from the state of Georgia, who are dining with us at Rush Hour for the first time.

rush hour lamb shank

The Braised Lamb Shank ($17) is a rich, melt-in-the-mouth experience. Doused in a light tomato-based sauce and resting on a (far too) enormous bed of mushroom risotto, it's delightfully prepared and satiating.

rush hour red snapper

Seafood mains are very well received and come highly recommended. The Baked Red Snapper ($18) is served completely covered in a saucy mix of delicious mussels, artichokes and olives. The Grilled Grouper ($21) is also a big hit, and comes prepared in a delicious citrusy, clear, white wine reduction with capers.

rush hour grouper

The atmosphere at Rush Hour is much like the food. It feels warm and comforting and the staff are so great that the (Ikea?) chairs (mine fell over as I pulled my coat off it) and the butter at the table (in those little single use plastic tear off lid jobs) are easily forgiven. Quality for price, Rush Hour is a really fantastic dinner experience.


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