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Restaurants

Mustachio

Posted by Gadjo Sevilla / Reviewed on April 21, 2010 / review policy

MustachioMustachio is an institution. Located at the center of the lower level of the St. Lawrence Market since 1995, this purveyor of hefty and tasty sandwiches is busiest during the noontime feeding frenzy, where long lines form as orders are speedily put together. This is one of the busiest kitchens I've ever seen, and also the most effective.

Mustachio TorontoMike, the manager, has been in the food business for a long time, with numerous successful restaurants under his belt. This wealth of experience certainly shows in the efficient service of the long line of customers waiting to pick up these near-famous sandwiches and pasta dishes.

MustachioMustachio is best-known for its generous sandwiches made of veal ($6.20), fried eggplant ($6.20), grilled chicken breast ($6.20), and veal Parmigiano ($7.08), all served in the Italian tradition. These are monsters served with layers of thick, cooked-from-scratch tomato sauce, ample sautéed mushrooms, fried onions and peppers on a warm Kaiser roll or -- if one prefers -- on freshly baked Foccacia.

We order a veal sandwich on a kaiser roll with an addition of fried eggplant ($ 7.20) only to realize that it's humongous.

The huge roll can barely hold together the mass of eggplant, veal, mushroom, pepper and tomato sauce. Even cut in half, the sandwich requires the full attention and calculated grip of two hands in order to keep everything together.

MustachioIt's not much to look at, but it tastes awesome. The fresh tomato sauce co-mingles with the sautéed mushrooms and the delicious fried eggplant and veal to provide that winning combination of weightiness and acid. This meal-in-one has just the right interplay of moistness and crispiness from the sauce and the fried veal and eggplant.

mustachioThis is a sandwich that'll fill you up very quickly, and you'd have to be really starving to eat the whole thing in one sitting. One sandwich is perfect for two hungry adults or can be divided into two meals -- half now, half for later.

MustachioMustachio also offers pasta dishes, soup, salads, spaghetti and submarine sandwiches, all with fast and friendly service. We wanted to try the soup of the day but there wasn't any left when we arrived.

mustachioThat's fine today -- its not like we would have had any extra space for it. Visitors can opt to eat at the busy counter, or take it out and enjoy the (hopefully) good weather.

Mustachio's is open Tues-Thurs 8 a.m. to 6 p.m., Fridays 8 a.m. to 7 p.m., Saturdays 5 a.m. to 5 p.m.

Discussion

22 Comments

alison / July 20, 2007 at 05:07 pm
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*drools*
I used to get one of the eggplant sandwiches at least once a week when I worked down there. I MISS THEM SO MUCH! *sobs*
SuDs / November 22, 2007 at 09:27 pm
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The best veal and eggplant sandwich you can find.
LH / July 10, 2008 at 11:52 am
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Mustachio's is by far my favourite sandwich in the city. I love the chicken and eggplant. They are so big, I can only eat half!
jrhather / January 3, 2010 at 04:30 am
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Amazingly good food, nice and cheap. Just watch out for the lunch line-up.
Patrick / April 21, 2010 at 12:32 pm
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Tried chicken, veal, and just eggplant and I gotta be honest, I find their sandwiches a little bland. Filling they are, but not much zing. Lineups go out the door at lunchtime, however, so maybe it's just me.
Marta / April 21, 2010 at 12:35 pm
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My office is seconds away from St. Lawrence Market and we refer to Mustachio grub as "Big Sandwich". The title seems to fit the meal. Delicious!
eatmeat / April 21, 2010 at 12:36 pm
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was underwhelmed by sandwiches here. for my money California Sandwiches ain't to be beat for meat!
Neda / April 21, 2010 at 12:50 pm
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Love their veal and egplant, have to get it with everything though! I have to hold back and try not to get one every Saturday!
FranktheTank / April 21, 2010 at 12:50 pm
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You guys are on crack. I've had the veal sandwich from mustachio's and it always taste's BLAND. California's is MUCH better. I'm a WOP so i know what i'm talking about.
Martin / April 21, 2010 at 01:28 pm
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I have to admit, I don't get why California's gets such a good rap in this city. Their sandwiches are fine (a bit over salty, in my opinion), but the fresh and full flavour of a Moustachio's sandwich (on Focaccia with the works --including hot peppers) is top notch. I'd also go out on a limb and say the SAUCE at San Franchsco's on Clinton is the best of any veal sandwich in the city.
Michael / April 21, 2010 at 03:33 pm
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I got back to the office after a meeting near the market, bringing one of Mustachio's sandwiches with me. Veal and eggplant is my preference.

Upon my arrival back, amidst many drools, I was accused of being a bandwagon jumper as this review got bumped today!

Way better than California's. Much.
Sarah T / April 21, 2010 at 07:06 pm
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Really good but extremely bad service.

Wexler / April 22, 2010 at 10:31 am
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Great spot.......but California's is king of veal in this city
Naysayer / April 22, 2010 at 02:13 pm
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Isn't this place called Uno Moustachio? The name changed when the original owner sold a coupla years ago iirc.
notanymore / April 23, 2010 at 08:26 am
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I think those of you gushing about mustachios haven't been there recently. I go to the market a couple of times a week as it's by my work. mustachios is still great (if you like lots and lots of white bread and fried everything inside as a meal) but it's certainly not cheap anymore and there are no more line ups curled around the market because of it. They've been jacking their prices every few months and now it's about $8.00 for a veal sandwich. I don't think that's a very good deal on a sandwich. I can think of a few other places in the city that have much better sandwiches in that price range.
Loïc / April 23, 2010 at 09:52 am
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Mustachio's wouldn't be bad if it wasn't for the "old oil" taste that ruins the sandwiches. I'm with Wexler, eatmeat and FranktheTank the wop, California Sammiches is much better.
Lori / April 24, 2010 at 09:05 pm
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I had the eggplant sandwich this weekend. Sure, it was as big as my head, but it was also cold. As for the flavour, I was not impressed after all the hype I've been hearing about it for years.
Liana / May 24, 2010 at 02:34 am
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yummiest sandwich in my life!!!!!
Beth / March 18, 2011 at 06:52 pm
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I wasn't impressed. I went on a busy Saturday just after noon. Like I read in a review somewhere else - the sandwich wasn't even hot. How can you have an eggplant parm when the cheese doesn't even melt? also, the eggplant was just way too thin so I couldn't even taste it - too much breading (trust me, I never thought I would say it but it is true). Very dissapointed as I thought this sandwich would be amazing.
Nonna Maria / April 20, 2012 at 10:31 am
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How about somebody describes why something is either good or bad?
Bland: thanks. what does it need? Salt? Herbs? What?
Overpriced: Californias is $10+. How is 8 overpriced for an equally large sandwich?
Good sandwich: Why? BEcause its big? Plenty of flavour? what?

Way to go team
Veal sandwich lover / October 30, 2012 at 11:40 pm
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Not the best sandwich, San Francesco is better. Watch out for the owner at the cash. He'll rip you off big time depending on the drink you order with the sandwich.
Cam / June 7, 2013 at 12:34 pm
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It was a good sandwich. I have not tried other places so I cant compare, but as someone hungry wanting a decent sandwich i was not dissapointed.

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