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Fashion & Style

The death of high-end sneaker shops

Posted by Rick McGinnis / April 23, 2010

Livestock SneakersThere's a cold wind blowing through the world of high-end sneaker shops in the city, as one store after another has fallen by the wayside in the last year, leaving a much leaner market for anyone who makes a fetish out of footwear that doesn't come with four inch heels.

After expanding into high profile locations like Yorkville, the Goodfoot mini-chain went under this winter, leaving the following message on their website: "We've seen our market change significantly over the last few years. And, as it has changed direction, so too have we. Thus the decision to close Goodfoot and shift our focus onto new opportunities has been made."

Stolen Riches has also left its Trinity Bellwoods storefront vacant, and a website whose most recent updates are from last June, joining North Trooper, a former neighbour of Goodfoot in Yorkville, whose blogspot page last saw tending in the fall. Queen West's Cartel closed last autumn.

Empty storefront at North TrooperJustin, the manager at North Trooper's next-door neighbour Capsule, who now gets to share the Yorkville sneaker market with Niketown, said that it was a simple matter of price -- North Trooper was a reseller that didn't have a deal with big suppliers like Converse, Adidas and Nike and thus had to buy its big-ticket product overseas, making the resulting sticker shock too much for these recessionary times.

To an outsider, the high-end sneaker market can be mystifying -- a marvel of planned obsolescence and fashion churn playing out in vividly-coloured rubber and leather. It's obviously big enough to cater to a market that'll never show off its closet on MTV Cribs, but who speak just as longingly of Jordan Retros, Air Max 90s, Slit Tongue Asics Gel Lytes, Nike Prestos, Adidas Zeitfreis, the Yeezy, Talarias, Reebok Reverse Jams, Clae Russells, K-Swiss Ladners and Air Stabs. It's an obsession so hermetic in its frames of reference that I honestly haven't a clue what a single word I've just typed means.

SneakersOne thing that's definitely happened to the sneaker market outside the realm of obsessives is a new austerity. Carlos is the manager at the Spadina Avenue outpost of Livestock, the Vancouver-based sneaker boutique chain, and he says that the challenge is catering to the label-conscious street types and the "random dudes" who come from the business district just to the east.

"A lot of people want to buy a shoe that they can just wear out," he tells me. "It's more of a grown-up look." No kidding -- a few years ago, I had to spend weeks sifting through neon multicolours and pneumatic soles to find a simple pair of Pumas or Adidas Campus; today almost everyone is offering a variation on these retro chestnuts, and around the corner from Livestock at Get Outside, a whole wall is devoted to the evergreen Converse Chuck Taylor in nearly every style and colour.

Out on the street, the vibe is '70s student meets Appalachia, and it's hard to miss how Goodfoot's market changed significantly; an overbuilt candy-coloured kick doesn't stand a chance these days.

Discussion

18 Comments

Steve Keys / April 23, 2010 at 09:50 am
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Although not high-end, if Get OutSide or Groovy were to ever go out of business I'd seriously cry.
soteeoh / April 23, 2010 at 10:03 am
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Im by no means an expert in this matter, but I inquired in Stolen Riches about the future of the shop shortly before they closed it down and was told that they were closing to renovate the space and would re-open in later spring/early summer. And although Cartel did close, on a recent walk I noticed that the space had been filled by a new store selling essentially the same merchandise and I even recognized one of the staff as a former employee from cartel so it seems like things may not be going as badly as it would appear.
Tiger / April 23, 2010 at 10:11 am
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the problem with these "high end" shops is that you can get the same product online shipped at a lower price.
Larry / April 23, 2010 at 10:16 am
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Livestock will be next. They don't carry anything you cant get online or around the corner - minus the attitude as well. Sneakers arent dead, once this epidemic of boat shoes, boots and 70's sneaker craze goes away. Everyone loves a comfy pair of sneakers.
Karma / April 23, 2010 at 10:40 am
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I'm not surprised. Places like Goodfoot that carried this snobbish attitude to their customers had to have seen this coming.

They used to make that it seem like if you weren't a local, you wouldn't get any good service.
Kenny replying to a comment from Tiger / April 23, 2010 at 11:13 am
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Precisely.

I found a pair of $105 (CAD) shoes in-store that I really liked and would've bought them on the spot but decided to shop around first.

I got home, found the same pair (in USD) on eBay for $99, on the manufacturer's website for $65, then on a 3rd party site for $45... guess where I bought'em from?

It's unfortunate that I ended up buying the shoes from a USA company, when but when it's more than half the cost in-store, I can't really be blamed. If only more Canadian retailers did the online-only storefront.
Matthew replying to a comment from Kenny / April 23, 2010 at 11:29 am
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any tips on keywords used to search for manufacturer's site or 3rd party sites? I'm looking for classic retro new balance's, but on the newbalance.ca site they are still 129.99
jamesmallon / April 23, 2010 at 12:01 pm
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'High end sneaker shops' (sic) are going out of business, perhaps because there are not enough clueless people who dress in athletic wear to attempt to impress.
Cheapskate / April 23, 2010 at 12:03 pm
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My problem is that 'high-end' sneakers are just shoes that have limited distribution. They are the exact same as ones found online or in outlet stores but are 3X the price.

I already have hard enough time understanding why i'm paying $50 for something that costs 30cents to make...let alone paying $100+. Has anyone every looked at the quality of 'high-end sneakers'? glue everywhere, uneven lines, pieces peeling and falling off after 2 months... ughhhh. I love them but they are garbage.
Bash / April 23, 2010 at 12:24 pm
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The real issue here is that sneaker collectors are scarce, and while it has been a fad the past few years to try and be a part of the culture, you can't build a store or a franchise around a fad.

I appreciate a good looking sneaker as much as anyone, Retro Jordans or Air Max 95s with some original colour-ways always look good.. but will I drop 220 for a shoe that I can wear once every 3 weeks? The answer is no. And while there are a few who WILL drop this amount of money the truth of the matter is the average consumer WILL NOT.

Goodfoot failed to appeal to the average consumer and that is why they failed. They had a snobbish feel to them and that came back around and bit them in the butt.

If you wanna be a shoe boutique, that's cool.. but also have something in your shop that will make someone who DOESN'T want neon green and bright pink Air Max 95's for $230 or else you'll always have a 24 window shoppers and 1 real shopper.

In this economy, young adults who are becoming increasingly more financially conscious, aren't going to drop big dollars for something that they can't utilize often. We see a huge increase in $60 Vans and Chuck Taylor's because they're simple, straight forward, convenient for every occasion and look good. Same goes for simple jeans and tees.

Simplicity is in... and it's probably the most affordable and sensible fad that's occurred in a while. Instead of tapping into BOTH the Sneaker Head and average consumer market, the boutiques who went down focused on one... the one that was successful as a result of being a fad, and now they are out of business.

Bottom line: Bad business strategy and horrible niche marketing.
Richard / April 23, 2010 at 12:45 pm
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I really wish we had somewhat similar prices as the states...my shoes cost 2x the price they do in the States, don't come in adjustable widths like they do in the States, and don't come in customizable colours like in the States. It sucks.
jamesmallon / April 23, 2010 at 03:08 pm
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'Richard', too right: "don't come in adjustable widths like they do in the States." What is with that? How lazy are distributors in Canada, and how docile the Canadian consumer? I can't get a medium tall anywhere, nor a 31" waist with a 34" inseam, nor even an unhemmed inseam I can pay to have done. If it weren't for getting extorted by Canadian Customs and Duty, I wouldn't buy a piece of clothing here. But of course, the Canadian retailer will blame everyone but themselves for their woes.
kevin / April 23, 2010 at 05:38 pm
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Is stolen riches still opened? the main problem is they expanded too fast. theres sneaker shop every corner now and it doesnt help that footlocker gets the same releases as goodfoot, few years back goodfoot was only shop getting rare shoes.
george2 / May 16, 2010 at 10:27 pm
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I'm pretty sure Stolen Riches is gone. They've been vacant for over 3 months with unpaid bills piling up on the floor. It'll be interesting to see who will be taking over this location, as it was previously the first Lululemon test location outside of BC.
JKG replying to a comment from Cheapskate / June 11, 2010 at 02:21 am
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"Has anyone every looked at the quality of 'high-end sneakers'? glue everywhere, uneven lines, pieces peeling and falling off after 2 months... ughhhh. I love them but they are garbage."

Depends what you're buying. Top stuff like Adidas Consortium or Asics Directional or Runovation series is very cleanly put together with great materials.

In any case, I will genuinely miss Stolen Riches and Goodfoot. These stores represented well for Toronto, they really did blaze trails with their respective house "brands" (can't count the number of times I've seen a DJ or MC on stage with a Stolen Riches cap), and they became fixtures of sorts for a lot of people. It'll be a little more boring without 'em. Thanks for the memories guys.
Marc / June 22, 2010 at 01:20 pm
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It's simply because of economic factors. It's not how it was before. There's the recession and the disappearing/lack of jobs, so that's one big factor - no money. Then there's the demographic factor. Every generation has their struggling portion, but let's face it, the group with the most money is the baby boomer group. However, they are not looking for green converse shoes or sneaker shops. But even if the younger people have work, a career now and some money, the society they live in has higher costs, high taxes and student debt to pay off.
Dr. Spanky / October 15, 2010 at 03:28 pm
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Life is good.
Dr. Spanky / October 15, 2010 at 03:28 pm
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Life is good

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