Breds Custom has thrown open the doors of its new retail space, ready to offer its customized clothing to Toronto's tee freaks and those looking for one-of-a-kind, locally milled tops.

Clothes-obsessed world traveler Kieron Marhue set up an appointment-only custom garment shop in 2004, but an urge to open it up to the public led him to settle on Dundas West . I learned that he's partnered with local millers to make ultra-soft fabrics -- including a bamboo/organic cotton blend -- and local artists to create clothes that can't be found anywhere else. (Even the labels are made from recycled fabrics.)

Working with local designers was one way Marhue was determined to stand out from other tee shops in town. "No stealing from album covers or using photographers' work!" he said.

The shop currently works regularly with around 10 designers, with more coming on board in the near future. Their designs -- there's around 20 to choose from currently -- tend toward the counter-culture, showing the Young Offenders Act, smoking gnomes, brains listening to headphones...

Marhue hopes, however, that the designs will stand as classics. "We want to create a piece that you'll still love 10 years later," said Marhue.

Customers have the choice of a variety of tees and long-sleeved shirts in several shades and cuts, along with a small selection of Castro-style caps. Prices run from $65 to $95. Those looking for more than a shirt can check back this fall for zippies, coats, and waffle shirts, and women's sizes come spring.

"It's all about attention to detail, and keeping it small," he said. "Right now it's kind-of wait-and-see as we take on the idea of inventory. We have to know it's wanted so that an African [child] doesn't end up wearing it [due to corporate overstock donation]."

This fall will see another half-dozen designs make their debut in the Breds Custom catalogue. Keeping it small, right? "It could all still go horribly wrong," Marhue laughed.

Photos by Alex Russel