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The great Toronto poutine challenge: the vegetarian poutine

Posted by Luke Champion / September 1, 2010

Vegetarian Poutine TorontoOn day one of my great poutine odyssey that will see me consuming a poutine a day for the next three weeks, I stop by the Stampede Bison Grill to get started.

A place known for serving up thick and juicy bison meat might be an unexpected place to sample a vegetarian poutine, but at this Parkdale haunt they've got an eye out for the neighbourhood herbivores as well. I'm looking forward to becoming an authority on local poutine and Stampede is as good a place as any to start out.

Poutine is a simple enough dish with three basic components: French fries, gravy and cheese curds. It's finding the proper balance between the three that proves tricky. Getting each aspect just right has been the undoing of many valiant efforts.

Fries

The potatoes at the Stampede Bison Grill are on the thinner side, which I like generally. The more surface area a French fry has, the more crisp, deep fried, flavour it is able to impart - plus, they will cook faster which leaves the inside light and airy. Unfortunately, thin shoelace potatoes don't hold up nearly as well to piping hot gravy. A poutine fry needs to take into account the hearty weight of it's second and third floors. A mound of creamy curbs smothered in thick brown sauce will easily overpower a delicate fry and unfortunately, that's what happened here. 2.5/5

Gravy

Stampede uses veggie gravy for their poutine, a blessing for the herbivores out there, but really no substitute for the real thing. It's okay; it has that "gravy" flavour. Unfortunately, what it's lacking is the depth and complexity of flavour that only a big pile of beefy bones can provide and honestly, a great poutine is probably 40 per cent sauce alone. So what can I say? Top marks for inclusiveness, it's just that sometimes compromise can ruin the party a little bit. 2/5

Curds

Here's where Stampede steps up. The curds here are soft, moist, a little bit gooey and extremely plentiful. Since poutine is, in part, little more than an excuse to gorge on curds and not feel guilty about it (feel guilty about the fries and gravy), Stampede has earned back some much-needed marks on this one. On arrival the fries are all but covered by them with only a stray stick poking through. This is a cheese lover's poutine through and through. 3.5/5

Portion

It's big - big enough for a meal itself, big enough to share. Poutine shouldn't be this big, people shouldn't eat this much cheesy, deep fried potato at one time, but they do, and they will continue to do. 5/5

Price: $4.25

Overall it's a decent showing for a place that prides itself more on its grill. The gravy is a decent veggie gravy, unfortunately it's very mediocre in comparison to the real stuff.

Keep checking back on the site over the next three weeks to see where my great Toronto poutine challenge takes me next.

Discussion

36 Comments

Angelune / September 1, 2010 at 09:57 am
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I disagree - this veggie gravy is the best of all the veggie gravies I've tried. You shouldn't compare it to beef gravy, compare it to other veggie gravies!
This is one of the best, if not THE best veggie poutine in Toronto.
PETA Pusher / September 1, 2010 at 10:23 am
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Cheese is made using rennet which comes from the KILLING of ANIMALS.

Love / September 1, 2010 at 10:23 am
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This "veggie poutine challenge" series sound fantastic!!! I absolutely LOVE the fact that this city has vegetarian poutine options.
AV / September 1, 2010 at 10:27 am
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That poutine looks like shit.
Mike / September 1, 2010 at 10:28 am
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I haven't had this poutine, but I've had the vegetarian one from Poutini's. If the Stampede is anything like Poutini's, then you would never know it was vegetarian. Tasted great.
Rick / September 1, 2010 at 10:32 am
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@PETA Pusher
As per our lovely friend Wikipedia http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rennet - "There are non-animal sources for rennet that are suitable for vegetarian consumption." There is an explanation of vegetable based rennet in the article as well.

Deep breath, exhale. ENJOY the POUTINE.
Zoe replying to a comment from PETA Pusher / September 1, 2010 at 10:58 am
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Agree with Rick. PETA Pusher, if you aren't already doing so, I would suggest that you inquire if the cheese is rennet-free. This will help vendors / manufacturers understand that rennet-free products are in demand.

That is, if you eat animal products at all.
beef? / September 1, 2010 at 11:03 am
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beefy bones? what are you talking about? poutine is supposed to have chicken gravy. ok, most toronto poutine places use beef gravy, but they're making a big mistake.
laurel / September 1, 2010 at 11:20 am
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i loves me a good veggie poutine! utopia has a tasty one, and smoke's version is awesome; hearty gravy with mushrooms. if you're doing it at home, i like to add a bit of soy sauce and poultry for a more meaty flavour.
BC / September 1, 2010 at 11:24 am
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I commend you on your city wide quest for great poutine, but come on; the very first stop and you've chosen vegetarian?! In the opinion of a humble meatosaurus with a never-ending appetite for foods of the gravy-smothered variety you really should have started this out with a beefy, bacon topped bang... however, I will continue to read in hopes that you are saving the best for last.

Happy Hunting.
matt / September 1, 2010 at 11:54 am
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ITS CALLED THE DAMN FOOD CHAIN PEOPLE. look up apex predator, that would be what people are. poutine is fries, cheese curds, and chicken gravy. period.

a suggestion to all you food chain denyers out there: a bullet is not just vegetarian, its vegan, try eating one of those. that would make the world a better place.
Mike replying to a comment from BC / September 1, 2010 at 11:58 am
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Yes, well, keep in mind that the readers of this site voted a vegetarian/vegan restaurant as the best diner in Toronto. That's like finding O'Doul's on a best beer list.
LJ replying to a comment from PETA Pusher / September 1, 2010 at 11:58 am
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rennet is not in every god damn cheese PETA DOUCHE, geez.
LJ replying to a comment from beef? / September 1, 2010 at 11:59 am
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real poutine gravy (non-veggie) is made from VEAL stock. eat that PETA and Zoe
Miranda / September 1, 2010 at 12:06 pm
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A poutine a day for 3 weeks? Your poor heart :(
The Shakes / September 1, 2010 at 12:23 pm
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Luke Champion - Fucking awesome name for a marathon poutine tester!
Zoe replying to a comment from LJ / September 1, 2010 at 01:21 pm
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Again, the vegetarian/vegan is pegged as a squeamish wimp who can't bear to be responsible for another creature's death, ohhhh the horror of it all!

For the record, I have no issues with humans eating other animals, generally speaking. In fact, I have no issues with killing a wild animal with my own hands for the purposes of feeding myself... even if that animal is a cute, cuddly baby cow.

What I have an issue with is those humans who think that blood, bones and killing animals is disgusting and don't want to think or hear or see it, but they have no problem chowing down on the products of their death.
bob / September 1, 2010 at 01:26 pm
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What about VEGAN poutine - too much to ask for?
Laura / September 1, 2010 at 01:48 pm
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Vegan poutine does exist. Poutini's does it well and it is really tasty -- topped with Daiya (serious damn good vegan cheese)
Acacia / September 1, 2010 at 01:50 pm
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VEGAN Poutine does exist. Poutini's makes it.

Poutini's has the best vegetarian poutine in town HANDS DOWN.
lister / September 1, 2010 at 01:51 pm
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Poutini does vegan poutine: http://www.poutini.com/vegan-poutine/

The people who mindlessly chant that poutine is solely fries, curds and chicken gravy need to get a life. There's nothing wrong with variations especially if it makes a better product. I personally prefer poutine with beef gravy and some sort of meat on top. Bacon works nicely. Smoked meat is nice too. Hmmm, even chorizo sounds good, never tried that yet. Horrors, upon horrors, some places in Quebec even do that too.
Tina / September 1, 2010 at 02:14 pm
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How can this be vegetarian if they use CHEESE?
Corina replying to a comment from Tina / September 1, 2010 at 02:28 pm
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Cheese is vegetarian... just not vegan. Ugh.
Greg / September 1, 2010 at 02:47 pm
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Meat would be nice, but vegetarians are limited to meat once every 3 weeks, unless its fish. Fish is not meat. Also, free-range meat is not meat.
common replying to a comment from BC / September 1, 2010 at 03:04 pm
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@ BC - the whole point of this series is to find the best VEGETARIAN poutine.
did you read the article? or even the entire headline?

if you want the real deal, then check out the top 10 poutine article:
http://www.blogto.com/toronto/the_best_poutine_in_toronto/
SYSS Mouse replying to a comment from Corina / September 1, 2010 at 04:13 pm
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I figured a Vegan Police joke is in order.'

The Vegan Police knows that chess is not Vegan, Todd doesn't.
SYSS Mouse replying to a comment from Corina / September 1, 2010 at 04:19 pm
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Then some Vegan Police joke is in order..

Cheese is not Vegan - that the Vegan Police knows, Todd doesn't
Bizzy Bunter / September 1, 2010 at 04:19 pm
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I don't see the obsession with chicken gravy. I like the beef gravy equally well. Sometimes, I even like it more depending on the place.
Just because something was done first, doesn't automatically mean it was done best.
Lisa / September 1, 2010 at 06:28 pm
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I love this challenge! I love poutine, and I am vegetarian, so this series really floats my boat. I also agree that Poutini's vegan poutine is amazing!
Rachel / September 1, 2010 at 08:25 pm
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"Stampede uses veggie gravy for their poutine, a blessing for the herbivores out there, but really no substitute for the real thing."

Face palm. Some of us, as in the ones who purposely seek out and eat vegetarian poutine, don't want, need, or care about "the real thing." But I do appreciate you're writing for a greater audience.

That aside, I am beyond thrilled to see BlogTO cover poutine, vegetarian food, and a combination of the two. Happy eating!
Tim replying to a comment from common / September 1, 2010 at 08:57 pm
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Sorry if the title confused some of you but the series is not focused exclusively on vegeterian poutine. The focus is simply poutine and today's post was on a vegetarian poutine. Other posts will cover different types of poutine (almost all of them non vegetarian)
gr1 / September 2, 2010 at 01:57 am
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I HATE FRNECH FRIES. MAKE ONION RING POUTINE. THANK YOU.
Nico / September 2, 2010 at 12:18 pm
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This is truly exciting news. I had no idea that anywhere but Smoke's had vegetarian poutine.

Rock on.
Nico replying to a comment from Rachel / September 2, 2010 at 12:19 pm
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Also, ditto this comment.

Who cares what the carcass-based gravy tastes like? Rate veggie gravy as veggie gravy. It's not <em>supposed</em> to be anything else.
BC replying to a comment from common / September 2, 2010 at 09:03 pm
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I certainly did read the article, and have read the link you posted when it was originally posted. I thought that list was top-notch, and have the same hopes for this series.

If you'd read the ENTIRE article, as you so eloquently put it in your attempted slam towards me, you would have noticed that the vegetarian poutine was step one in an all-encompassing poutine saga that will cover all grounds on the dish.

Nice try. Read the entire headline next time.
Hmm / September 2, 2010 at 09:39 pm
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Are all vegetarians as insufferable as many of those posting on here? Some non-vegetarians do care how veggie gravy compares with the meaty variety as we're fine with the healthier choice if it tastes close but yeah, taste kind of counts in a big way where food is concerned.

I know this more relaxed attitude towards the evils of our nature can offend your self-righteous sensibilities but not all of us have our moral compass pointing in the same rather inflexible direction.

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