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Eat & Drink

The great Toronto poutine challenge: the beef poutine

Posted by Luke Champion / September 8, 2010

beef poutineAt first glance it's kind of difficult to figure out what W Burger Bar is trying to be. It has this kind of Restaurant Makeover style sleek modern design. But at the same time, they serve $9.00 pitchers (take note). It's kind of an upscale, casual burger joint I suppose. Judging by the business it seems to be doing, it has been a welcome addition to Yonge and College.

You could say it was bustling during my recent visit. Even at 10:00pm on a weeknight the place was quite full as pieces of people's conversations floated through the bar. There are three options for poutine here: the Poutine Quebecois, the Beef Poutine and the Pulled Pork. While I know I should have gone traditional here, my $2.00 12oz PBR (take note) made a very convincing argument towards the beef, and I'm not arguing with a glass of beer in a crowded restaurant, I'd almost certainly be asked to leave. So beef it is.

What's a beef poutine? Well, at W Burger Bar beef is king. They serve hormone free, organic, locally sourced beef for their hamburgers, and they sprinkle the same beef atop their poutine. Let's see how the rest of it panned out:

Fries

These are a slightly thinner version of what you'll commonly see served in poutine - think McDonalds in size and colour, maybe a hairline thicker. Do not however, think McDonalds in terms of taste, texture and overall quality. These straw-coloured shoestrings have much more to offer than their franchise produced brethren. W's fries make an ideal vessel for poutine transmission, delicately crisp strands of deep fried excellence. The only drawback here is that because of their thinness, they're milder in flavour than many of the other poutines on the circuit - less potato flavour, more deep fried flavour, which depending on your point of view, may not be a drawback at all. 4/5

Gravy

This is a medium bodied beef gravy with lots of flavour and which is seasoned perfectly. The delicate sauce is thin enough to work its way through each nook and cranny this nest of frites has created until everything is coated. They haven't gone overboard here and it's much appreciated. The balance of flavours is remarkable. It's rich and meaty without being intrusive, and the ground beef on top acts almost as a sponge to hold any excess drippings keeping the French fries from getting overly saturated. 5/5

Curds

Mild and buttery, stringy and chewy, complete with a slight squeak. The addition of beef to the dish pushed the curds out of the spotlight a little, but only because the beef was so good. The cheese just couldn't compete. 3/5

Portion

Just right. Granted, W Burger Bar's is a little pricey. This isn't a place where you'll get piled high fries, but as such, this also isn't a place where they'll ever be frozen. Care is taken in the poutine's preparation and while it might cost a couple of bucks more, it's well worth it. This is single person size, but if you're there with a partner that just means you can try the pulled pork as well. 5/5

Price: $8.99

Total Score: 17/20

What more can I say? The beef works. It makes sense; it adds more flavour to the gravy while giving an additional vessel for that gravy to combine with. I'm a total convert. I don't know how to solve the curd issue. You could add more I suppose, but to be honest I'm not even convinced it's an issue that really needs resolving.

Discussion

16 Comments

gr1 / September 8, 2010 at 01:54 pm
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it looks like poop, you cant judge poutine because you are 1) not french, 2) not a culinary genius, 3) versed in the intricacies of squeaky curds. I hate this site, poutine is stupid and I hope you consult your physician.

There, I got all the bullshit out of the way for you all.

ps, first.
Grade Two / September 8, 2010 at 02:30 pm
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Your face looks like poop.

1) It is true, you must be French (not Quebecois) to cook poutine (Nature not nurture).
2) There's a lot of protein in this dish. Good after workout snack following a strenuous workout at Metro Central.

ps, you are intelligent.
gr1 replying to a comment from Grade Two / September 8, 2010 at 02:52 pm
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i'm so salty for you right now. lets slip into a starch coma together and never wake up.
Eric26 / September 8, 2010 at 03:08 pm
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I like the Jamie Kennedy version of "poutine" which doesn't involve cheese curds (but does have beef). The rubbery byproduct of cheese known as cheese curds are an insult to cheese. Cheese cheese. Cheese.
Justin Lee Edward replying to a comment from gr1 / September 8, 2010 at 03:11 pm
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cry about it, you buzz kill.
TJ / September 8, 2010 at 03:29 pm
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$8.99 for a poutine is by no means "cheap" even if it does have beef but considering all the restaurants and all the reviews of various poutines by blogto in the past, $8.99 is in line with Smokey's and others. I find it inequitable to suggest $8.99 for W Burger bar is a little pricey whereas there's no mention elsewhere that others are because it doesn't give readers proper context or proper comparison criteria.
katt / September 8, 2010 at 03:42 pm
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the worst poutine in toronto is Sassafraz
gr1 replying to a comment from Justin Lee Edward / September 8, 2010 at 03:59 pm
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you are clearly an idiot.
Alan / September 8, 2010 at 04:00 pm
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this i might eat...looks like chili fries...
Greg replying to a comment from gr1 / September 8, 2010 at 04:11 pm
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Yes, *you*.
jay / September 8, 2010 at 04:20 pm
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Since when has everyone become so critical with food? Give it a rest, and if you are not pleased with a certain restaurant do not go there, and do not waste your time commenting about it online.
Jarrett / September 8, 2010 at 04:29 pm
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Poutine looks disgusting. Hate pulling up this website EVERY DAY SINCE SEPTEMBER 1ST with pictures of this guck.
chefxh / September 8, 2010 at 06:59 pm
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Goodness, somebody needs a nap. If you must have flame wars over something this mundane, you have too much time on your hands.
mr. hood / September 8, 2010 at 08:00 pm
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they have great food at that place, and it is always steady with a good crowd..

im a meat eater, but on one visit i tried the cobb salad, and even me 6'4 200lbs, had to get 3/4 of it to go....

this place has never let me down
curgoth / September 9, 2010 at 12:41 pm
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I for one am loving the poutine reviews. Even when I disagree with them.
T / September 10, 2010 at 12:39 pm
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the chili poutine here is delicious apparently. their chili is awesome so i can only imagine combining it with fries to be sublime.

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