Toronto Street Food Goes a la Cart
The city's anticipated Toronto a la Cart program hit the streets this holiday Monday, bringing with it fare far more interesting and ethnically diverse than our former Toronto street meat staples.
After years of planning, a mountain of red tape, and a $40,000+ investment, four of the eight carts involved in the program opened up shop for the first time today (to the chagrin of local dog vendors).
"We're open to the city!" proclaimed Blair Bonivento, who's cart is located at the West end of the strip of chip trucks and dog vendors at Nathan Phillips Square. He and his wife Kathy are celebrating their 23rd wedding anniversary by dishing out Greek souvlaki and salads to hungry and curious passersby.
"It took a lot to get here," explains Kathy about the experience of becoming one of only eight vendors who got the city's seal of approval. Extensive regulation, being interviewed by and having to cook for a panel of chefs and health inspectors ("Now that was intimidating!"), and extensive staff training were just some of the requirements of the program.
Seemab Ahmad, who immigrated to Toronto from Pakistan in 2006, is set up at the East end of Nathan Phillips Square. Owners/operators of the carts are required to be there for at least 70% of their operating hours. When I stopped by Seemab was serving up Central Asian/Persian dishes like chicken biryani ($5), salsa kahari (a tomato based curry) served on a pita ($5), and lassis ($3). With a chicken souvlaki wrap ($5) already in hand from the first cart, I decided to go for the rice-based biryani.
The souvlaki was quite tasty, even if the chicken was a smidgen on the dry side (one of the challenges of holding pre-cooked foods in the cart, as all foods must be pre-made in a licensed kitchen). The chicken in the biryani held a little better (being immersed in saffron scented rice) and was perfectly seasoned. It was served with a yogurt and cilantro based sauce, which was a great condiment and complement.
Right across from Steamwhistle at Roundhouse Park, Andnet Zere was scheduled to be serving up Eritrean/Ethiopian injera with legumes, vegetables, lamb or beef. But when I swung by there at about 1pm, they were just unloading the cart and having problems with the gas hook-up. Too bad, as they were missing out on gads of Jays fans who instead grabbed dogs before the game.
The fourth vendor opening today was a Caribbean cart at St. Clair & Yonge, right outside the south-east St. Clair Street subway exit. Bridgette Pinder, who told me she has been professionally cooking Caribbean for over 20 years, was offering up a jerk chicken fajita topped with lettuce and mango salsa ($5) and grilled pineapple ($2). Bridgette sent me off with the most genuine "Enjoy your meal!" I could have hoped for - and boy did I enjoy it. The smokiness and spice of the chicken was perfectly balanced with the salsa, which wasn't overly sweet.
The rest of the vendors will be rolling out over the next couple of weeks. Even though the city has been behind the selection and regulation of the carts, they have no say in when the vendors decide to start operating, or the hours they keep. In an interview with the National Post, Councillor John Filion (who headed up the A La Cart project for the city) said "There's a popular misconception. The city designed the A La Cart, but they're eight independent entrepreneurs." Filion was on hand today at Nathan Phillips Square, talking to curious Torontonians about the program while eating his biryani.
With their distinctive A La Cart branding it won't be difficult to spot these new vendors. The city has a list of all of the locations.
Comments (41)
I have to say the branding is horrendous. Absolutely no character. Design by committee? And I feel bad for those working the carts having to wear the standard A La Cart uniforms.
wow they spend so much money and time and end up selling food in Styrofoam containers? How is this progress?
At least they're keeping the prices within reason and competitiveness against established street meat vendors. Mr Tasty's blue chip truck at Nathan Phillips Square gives me a box fulla fries, a hot dog, and a pop for $4! But at least now... I can has zouvlaki!
I remember a few years ago when the 'street meat' vendors were forced to work at street corners (cold & windy) because high-priced restaurants 'feared' they were taking away business.
I really miss the red carts that used to sell warmed up nuts & cashews...
That's because The Star's reviewer, Corey Mintz, typically takes a dim view, seemingly deciding his review stance before sampling the food. How anyone who recommends non-Kosher food (i.e. pork) for a Jewish Passover Seder (as Mintz did) has any credibility is beyond me.
Nice write up. I am not too sure why they went so uneco-friendly on the packaging. Huge oversight.
Those are really great photos. Off topic, I know, but what type of camera do you use?
Wow. Agreed...great photos and write up. I am looking forward to trying the Eritrean/Ethiopian.
This program is been so micromanaged by the City. I have a lot of respect for the vendors who have stuck with it.
Yes, the branding is awful. Why should vendors of different types of food have to use identical carts? Hot dog vendors don't!
Hey, ya, right on. Styrofoam for food? At least the hot dog vendors are more conscious about the environment than city hall.
I know I am alone on this I don't mind the branding. Although I don't like the fact all the carts are the same.
If you want an idea of what happens bureaucracy and food service mix, just come to the U of T campus. Here you can lunch on yellowed-lettuce salad and undercooked pizza for just under $10, and sip "organic free-trade" coffee that tastes and smells like a burning tire.
$5 for a souvlaki
$5 for a briyani.
Burger combo = $5.50 plus your drink which is $2-$3.
I tasted both at Nathan Philips locations. Missed Councillor Fillion
Just got back from trying out the jerk chicken fajita & is was delicious. They are a bit slow, obviously because it's new and there was a huge line but in the end, really good and worth the 5 bucks. Not much space for them to prepare which is stupid but they are trying to work around it. So glad I have another option for lunch!
Just had lunch at the Central Asian/Persian stand at Nathan Phillips Square, and while it was good, it certainly wasn't what I expected. 3 chunks of chicken on a big mound of rice for $5!? Same for my vegetarian friend, except sub in 3 potato chunks and a few green peas. I expected a little more than that.
They're not totally ready to go yet either - no signs about what kind of food it was, what was on the menu, or what the prices were. People were confused. And the staff seemed unimpressed.
I'll try out the other carts, but not sure if I'll go back to this one.
Just had lunch at the Central Asian/Persian stand at Nathan Phillips Square, and while it was good, it certainly wasn't what I expected. 3 chunks of chicken on a big mound of rice for $5!? Same for my vegetarian friend, except sub in 3 potato chunks and a few green peas. I expected a little more than that.
They're not totally ready to go yet either - no signs about what kind of food it was, what was on the menu, or what the prices were. People were confused. And the staff seemed unimpressed.
I'll try out the other carts, but not sure if I'll go back to this one.
It's worth remembering that that $2-3 drink in your hand is probably worth something closer to 5 cents in terms of syrup and carbonated water. Hardly "value."
Still, I agree I don't go to street carts for a $5 main ... there are probably half a dozen options for shawarma near my work, all for the same price and fresher.
I'd really love to see carts that sell hot, sugary peanuts, almonds, cashews, and pecans. Always completely overpriced considering how many you get, but so delicious, especially in the winter.
The design of them is uninspired, maybe, but I wouldn't call it horrendous. Monstrous trucks, blinking lights, neon signs and bad typography? That's what I'd call horrendous.
I am with you Facebook User, the designs are uninspired, not horrendous. I like the concept of these carts though. I hope they expand the program.
The cart at Yonge & St Clair was surrounded by curious folk today. I tend to go with the 'don't knock it till you try it' rule. I make my own lunches, so I can't say I'll be trying it soon, but maybe I'll give it a go on a Friday afternoon.
I literally gasped when I saw the styrofoam!
The cart at Yonge & St Clair was surrounded by curious folk today. I tend to go with the 'don't knock it till you try it' rule. I make my own lunches, so I can't say I'll be trying it soon, but maybe I'll give it a go on a Friday afternoon.
the concept is great, but the execution is terrible, just like most of the things that come out of toronto.
when i think street food, i think of other cities where it is part of the culture. hot peanuts, grilled meats on a stick that don't close more than $2, a hot bowl of noodles, crepes... i would love this. the problem is the stringent guidelines that have been put into place. i understand they are there to protect us, but i've probably unknowingly eaten in restaurants in worse condition than what they worry over a street vendor.
jlt on May 19, 2009 at 7:37 PM
the concept is great, but the execution is terrible, just like most of the things that come out of toronto.
when i think street food, i think of other cities where it is part of the culture. hot peanuts, grilled meats on a stick that don't close more than $2, a hot bowl of noodles, crepes... i would love this. the problem is the stringent guidelines that have been put into place. i understand they are there to protect us, but i've probably unknowingly eaten in restaurants in worse condition than what they worry over a street vendor
________
agree
Maybe is just a 'good' start, hopefully the food will be less boring over the years and then we can have some good, tasty, real street food.
And cheap. If it will cost me the same price than in a restaurant then what is the point of this program at all?
why bother with street food.. we are not a city for that, and will never be... our health regulations will kill any interesting food idea.. what a waste of time
It is great that we're finally moving beyond 'dogs and sausages (although these are still tasty treats), but please...let these people advertise their goods on the front of their carts! I couldn't tell which A La Cart cart was selling what until I was less than two metres from the cart. Would it be so bad if they used the front of the cart as a menu board?
It's about time! For years Torontonians have been deprived of a greater variety of street food and one that is a better reflection of all the great cultures that live here. But, although I appreciate strict standards in terms of health regulations I find it dull and unimaginative to not allow these vendors to do with their carts as they wish. Who cares if there is big sign advertising what they've got? or they add a flag or whatever? The best street life is allowed some measure of freedom otherwise it may as well be a shopping mall.
Five minutes walk from Nathan Philips Square in the Village by the Grange the Veggie Heaven is Karines'. www.karines.ca
Vendor prices, restaurant style servings, all fresh and delicious.
Try once and you will love it for life.
Amazing.
Has anyone actually seen the Eritrean stand at Roundhouse Park?
Where is this stand set up? i am hoping to grab some injera before the Jays game today... just want to make sure where this stand actually is! cheers
I've tried the Korean one at Yonge and Eglinton. The food itself was fine but $6 for a smidgen of shredded carrots and zucchini on top of a nickel's worth of rice? It's the same price (I think) as the non-veg option (that and more plus beef), which seems pretty ridiculous to me. I can walk into Korean Village on Bloor and for $7 get a huge bowl of the same, with an egg, and a bunch of sides. Doubt I'll be back.
the sight of your shaved head and the red t-shirt makes me believe that you shouldn't worry about the uniform but about your own appearance...
love your comment, handfed
and matt I am with you with the branding, I think it serves its purpose, being recognised and promoting a clean, modern, and slightly more sophisticated image.
the four colors, purpule, green, orange and magenta are secondary colors on the color wheel obtained by the mix of 2 or more primary colors; green is the mix of yellow and blue, megenta is red, blue and white combined. making the color scheme much more sophisticated than the "childish" primary colors; red, blue, yellow.
as for the shape. the circle has a cognitive meaning, a symbol of comunity and and gatherings (think of a group of campers in a circle around a camp fire. Everybody is at the same distance of the fire, sharing the warmth, everybody is facing each other, this facilitate exchange, communication...
finaly the diversity is represented by the outline of different eating instruments comming in the circles from different angles.
I think this is branding that is difinitely targetted towards someone much more sophisticated than Jim Shore
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