Saturday, May 26, 2012Mostly Cloudy 24°C
City

This was one of the most beautiful streets in Toronto

Posted by Guest Contributor / November 25, 2011

Toronto StreetLeafing through William Dendy's insightful and poignant Lost Toronto, I came across a 10-page section dedicated to the buildings of Toronto Street, the short strand connecting King and Adelaide, west of St James Cathedral. The book reads like a conservation hall of shame, but Dendy pays the most attention to this particular disfigured thoroughfare.

Once home to several great examples of gothic and Second Empire architecture, Toronto Street is now a mishmash of high-rise glass structures, squat stone boxes, and modern marble with the odd national historic site thrown in for good measure. Although it's far from the ugliest of the city's streets, you can't help but wonder what it might have been had things been different.

Toronto StreetMost conspicuously absent today are the Masonic Hall and General Post Office, the once grand central structure of Toronto's postal system. Designed by Henry Langley, the architect behind McMaster Hall and a host of city churches, and built between 1869 and 1873, The GPO stood at 36 Adelaide Street West — the head of Toronto Street-for 85 years. Its chivalrous covered "Ladies' Entrance," recessed windows and mansard roofs are now gone forever, replaced by the wall of glass currently occupied by State Street Corporation.

General Post Office Toronto StreetAt 18-20 Toronto Street, beside the surviving Toronto Street Post Office, was the quirky Masonic Hall with its stepped roof and carved stonework. Originally conceived as a music venue, the building was quickly adapted for use by the city's nine masonic lodges: comprising offices, assembly rooms and an armoury. It was one of the first buildings to emphasise height like many of the first skyscrapers would in later years. The Masonic Hall lasted 107 years before being demolished in favour of the current office tower in 1965.

Toronto Street 1960sLamenting the loss of the building that once housed the Rice Lewis and Son hardware store on the north-east corner of King and Toronto to a double-decker parking lot in the late 50s, Dendy described the neutering of Toronto Street as "the worst and most positive act of vandalism in the city, actively disfiguring what was once one of Toronto's most important streets-and its most beautiful-with an aggressively ugly concrete skeleton."

Toronto Street SignThe offending parking deck has now gone the same way as its predecessor, replaced by an anonymous multi-floor building and a CIBC branch, but looking at pictures of the street taken around 1900 it's not hard to see why Dendy was so outraged. Just four of the street's approximately eleven buildings survive. Also gone the way of the wrecking ball: The Toronto Union Block, Union Loan and Savings Company Building and Temple Chambers. I get it-some buildings have to go to make way for progress. I just wish the replacements lived up to the acts they followed.

Toronto Street Before and After

General Post Office TorontoGeneral Post Office, 36 Adelaide West circa 1900
General Post OfficeCurrent day view of the site

General Post OfficeThe Masonic Hall in 1868
General Post OfficeCurrent day view of the site

Writing and colour photographs by Chris Bateman.

Photos and scans from the Toronto Archives and William Dendy's Lost Toronto

Discussion

49 Comments

Paul / November 25, 2011 at 03:41 pm
user-pic
It's so sad it Makes me wanna cry!!
PD / November 25, 2011 at 03:45 pm
user-pic
Ok, fair enough, but cities need to grow, right? How fantastic and WORLD CLASS would Toronto be if we'd kept every single building since this photo was taken? We'd be a pretty antiquated (and dilapidated) city, wouldn't we be?
Steve / November 25, 2011 at 03:48 pm
user-pic
Conrad Black's old HQ was 10 Toronto Street where he (allegedly?) snuck out the boxes of files. Looking north it's the one on the left with Greek columns.
Nathan replying to a comment from PD / November 25, 2011 at 03:49 pm
user-pic
London's pretty world class, no?
Steve / November 25, 2011 at 03:49 pm
user-pic
it's also quite fitting that the street is named for the city and they still couldn't bring themselves to preserve these buildings.
Alden / November 25, 2011 at 03:51 pm
user-pic
Where are the proper archival citations for the photos used in this post? Sloppy, sloppy, sloppy!
kiki replying to a comment from Paul / November 25, 2011 at 03:51 pm
user-pic
get over yourself.
Davak replying to a comment from PD / November 25, 2011 at 03:51 pm
user-pic
You mean as antiquated and dilapidated as all those beautiful world-class cities in Europe?
gonzo / November 25, 2011 at 03:54 pm
user-pic
Out with the old, in with the nucleus.

margarets replying to a comment from PD / November 25, 2011 at 03:55 pm
user-pic
For just one example, Bruges has kept its old centre pretty much intact and people come from all over just to look at it and exclaim how beautiful it is. Bruges has all its modern stuff outside the old centre. Seems to be working out well for them.
Lindsay replying to a comment from Paul / November 25, 2011 at 03:56 pm
user-pic
Meeeeeeeeee toooooooooo.
That's the thing I hate most about Toronto.
This city tears down EVERYTHING!
Other cities like New York, Chicago ... Montreal even, have some of the most beautiful architecture around.
Toronto is just depressingly condo-rific.
Paul replying to a comment from Nathan / November 25, 2011 at 04:02 pm
user-pic
London tears down tons o' buildings every year.
PD replying to a comment from margarets / November 25, 2011 at 04:08 pm
user-pic
Apples and Oranges. Bruges is a lovely, UN-Protected Historical town. It's never aspired to be the financial or commercial hub that Toronto is for Canada. I love Bruges, and I regret that lots of wonderful buildings have been lost in Toronto, but sacrifices have to be made if we're to grow. More people=taller buildings.
vai / November 25, 2011 at 04:13 pm
user-pic
so sad!
why oh why?!
Dmitri / November 25, 2011 at 04:33 pm
user-pic
This is still one of my most favorite streets in Toronto. If you look in the other direction of this street (north) it presents you with a nice mixture of modern and old-stone design.

http://artsocket.com/prints/2011_04_16_shots-of-intimidating-toronto-streets-in-black-and-white#02_garbage-boys-view-of-scotia-bank.jpg
margarets replying to a comment from PD / November 25, 2011 at 04:36 pm
user-pic
Way to miss the point. Bruges has had lots of growth, just not in its old centre, but OUTSIDE its old centre. As for it "never aspiring" to be a commercial hub, it actually was one for a couple centuries. It still is; tourism is a commercial activity.

The pre-1900 part of Toronto was small enough that it could have been kept largely intact and the city could have grown up around it. The 416 is over 600 square kilometres - PLENTY of room.
PD replying to a comment from margarets / November 25, 2011 at 05:01 pm
user-pic
Fine Margarets, you win the war. Bruges was a commerical hub for many centuries, but it's Friday and I'm gonna go for a couple of beer after work. Geez.
Evan replying to a comment from PD / November 25, 2011 at 06:53 pm
user-pic
London's and Paris are commercial hubs and they don't tear down their historic buildings, they value their history. When they want to build up, they build in the suburbs.
FAC33 / November 25, 2011 at 07:09 pm
user-pic
I have no problem with "progress" when the new is an improvement on the old from an architectural/design standpoint. With this street, I don't think anyone would argue that any of the newer buildings are an improvement. This street went from an attractive thoroughfare with a beautiful building at its terminus to a forgotten side street with a lovely view of a portion of a wall of glass at its end.
W. K. Lis / November 25, 2011 at 07:20 pm
user-pic
Be careful. Someone might see the "surplus" museums and buy the land from the city for "newer" buildings.
Ryann / November 25, 2011 at 07:20 pm
user-pic
I love Toronto, but the people in charge sicken me, the most beautiful skyline that is bragged about, is bullshit, the most beautiful skyline would not include so many condos! For years so much of the city's beauty has been torn down for high rises and more money! It needs to stop!
mondayjane / November 25, 2011 at 08:56 pm
user-pic
Toronto has no excuse. Montreal, for instance, does not rip its historical buildings down at the alarming pace that this city does. The lack of regard for history and important buildings is not only depressing, but also gives little sense of foundation to Torontonians.

What's next, major TTC route reductions so citizens can't travel efficiently and are therefore angry and frustrated with the city, and each other? Oh, wait...
fwegweg / November 25, 2011 at 09:17 pm
user-pic
??? This street is still beautiful, the only not historic buildings are the one that replaced the Masonic building and another one?
fwegweg / November 25, 2011 at 09:21 pm
user-pic
Also there's a lot of things facing the city that are problematic like the OMB, lack of power for heritage boards and most of all the lack of education? Like UofT hardly teaches kids about Toronto as from what I heard.

But really it's just the city centre that isn't very historic, a little outside that is still very much historic. Just look at King West (past University), and there's a lot more.
namehijacked replying to a comment from mondayjane / November 25, 2011 at 09:47 pm
user-pic
... and that is why Montreal is the financial and population hub of Canada and Toronto is not. Oh, wait - this is 2011, not 1911.
Never mind....
RJ / November 25, 2011 at 11:33 pm
user-pic
So sad, its a shame : (
Stop being superficial / November 26, 2011 at 01:08 am
user-pic
There's no question those old buildings are a lot prettier than the new ones, but a lot of you guys are ignoring the positives of the new buildings.

They're more energy efficient, they allow for more density, they aren't miserable to be in when it gets hot, they let in more light (this really matters!), they're more accessible, it goes on.

It's not all about the pretty, guys. Function matters too. I get depressed by some of the buildings that have been torn down, but that's part of the perpetual regeneration that seems to define Toronto.

The only really unfortunate thing is that a lot of this regeneration happened during a time when the architects of the world were turning out hideous concrete buildings.
EliseevKirill33 / November 26, 2011 at 01:45 am
user-pic
Я очень часто ищу высококачественные [url=http://www.bustrans.com.ua]аренда микроавтобусов[/url] или же перевозки пассажиров, в то время когда делаю туры заграницу.
Paul / November 26, 2011 at 05:39 am
user-pic
I'm currently in Vienna. They have a lot of ugly buildings here as well outside the city center. Furthermore Europe lost a lot of old buildings due to the war.
Mauricio / November 26, 2011 at 08:57 am
user-pic
What's up with you urban white people and your obsession with keeping/preserving old 19th century ugly buildings? It really is a very strange fetish.

Why don't you argue to keep the teepee's that were found here when your ancestors commandeered the land? Those are the real "historical buildings".
dan replying to a comment from PD / November 26, 2011 at 02:35 pm
user-pic
we are not a world class city ... bc we never retain our heritage/ reinvest into our future ... visit real cities if you want to make a comment like that (try london, ny, chicago, hong kong, shanghai, san francisco, beijing, sydney, mumbai, paris, rome, vienna, berlin ... these are world cities ... please look them up and tell me how dilapidated they look... and being in a different continent is not a excuse for being more worldly) ... montreal is more worldly than toronto if you want a canadian comparison
dan replying to a comment from PD / November 26, 2011 at 02:41 pm
user-pic
you really are closed minded with the idea of development ... all world cities do continue to develop outwards and maintain heritage and sophistication ... toronto was never a "true" hub in comparison to other cities around the world but still a hub non-the-less, so there is no excuse for any of your half thought out responses and comments... its ideas like that, that have molded this city into the second tier world city that it is
dan replying to a comment from Ryann / November 26, 2011 at 02:48 pm
user-pic
more money is fine and development is great... but i think you meant to say is that with development comes the responsibility to forecast perception of current developments in 10-20 years and maintain a timeless look ... not something that can easily be dated ... best example of a building that took this into consideration, the exterior of the ACC
Eagle3 replying to a comment from PD / November 26, 2011 at 07:08 pm
user-pic
Ok, I just got back from Scotland, having spent some of my time in Edinburgh, where there is some of the most beautiful old and historic structures! I was in absolute awe of it, and the historical significance they represent. The city has managed to preserve historical buildings while still maintaining a sense of style and trend of today. They make use of the old buildings instead of flattening them and why? Because they just don't make them like they used to. There is a certain level of respect for its history and what they represent for the city, unlike Toronto.
This city is being ruined by ugly glass condos and as long as we continue down that route we will never be "world class"
dan replying to a comment from Eagle3 / November 26, 2011 at 08:46 pm
user-pic
amen
michael / November 26, 2011 at 09:12 pm
user-pic
i am so glad i wasnt alive in the 50's and 60's in TO, it always seems so terrible, they were demolishing old buildings, taking away streetcar lines, building parking lots. i probably would have gone mad. no wonder so many people moved to the suburbs in those days.
steve replying to a comment from Eagle3 / November 27, 2011 at 07:12 am
user-pic
The majority of those 'glass' condos are going up in parking lots and on vacant land. The destruction happened long before they came along.
Another thing to think about is the glass point tower glass has been popular for less then a decade. The previous style was a big slab with concrete current walls for more then 40 years. The glass point tower is big improvement.
namehijacked replying to a comment from Eagle3 / November 27, 2011 at 10:36 am
user-pic
Why are folks constantly comparing Toronto to Europe? North America is a far, far different entity than Europe.
Fact: Edinburgh is 1,100 years old! Artifacts dating back 3,000 years have been discovered. Toronto is, charitably, 300 years old, and the so-called Natives didn't leave much behind in the way of castles or stone carvings to discover.
Fact: in 1891, Edinburgh had 269k people - about the same population as Toronto. By 2010, Edinburgh had 469k people - not even double! Toronto went from 250k to 2.5Million, and the greater area is nearly 5 million.

Again, the challenges and opportunities that Toronto faces are unique to Toronto, not Europe, not HK, not New York - but Toronto.
Matt / November 27, 2011 at 11:18 am
user-pic
Toronto is not a world class city and never will be. It is a nice city to live in but it is ugly and far from a destination city. It does not have interesting history for the most part. It is not beautiful. It is not a world economic centre. It is sprawling and pretty inaccessible for visitors who do not drive. Toronto is only 218 years old and we have already torn down most of our old and beautiful buildings. Toronto is a very nice city to live in and I do enjoy it but I do not try to trick myself by calling it a world class city and I just kind of smile and sigh when other people do.
Matt replying to a comment from Mauricio / November 27, 2011 at 11:20 am
user-pic
Urban "white people" obsession with old 19th century buildings is they are a physical tie to the past when Britannia did rule and your people were not in Canada. It is a nationalist thing for some and for others it is simply the enjoyment of classical architecture.
fwegweg replying to a comment from Matt / November 27, 2011 at 02:22 pm
user-pic
lol at this
Mauricio replying to a comment from Matt / November 27, 2011 at 05:56 pm
user-pic
Matt - thanks for your honest answer. I can actually respect that in a way, instead of the wishy-washy explanations we hear about heritage buildings and the such. Interesting that It would have been probably still mostly true if you had reworded it, "...is they are a physical tie to the past when Britannia did rule your people".

Still, I stand by my claim that it is a strange historical white-people fetish. Like those weirdos that do Civil War reenactments.
Adam Sobolak / November 27, 2011 at 07:49 pm
user-pic
To be honest, Mauricio, said "historical white-people fetishists" are probably just as likely to crusade (or support crusades) on behalf of similar urban fabrics in cultures not their own. So it isn't about white vs non-white; but rather, about heritage sensitivity vs heritage philistinism--a distinction that knows no culture or race.

You might as well be puzzling over the "white-people" obsession with women's or gay rights, under the circumstance.
greg / November 27, 2011 at 08:58 pm
user-pic
Wow! Seriously. Some of you need to chill out a little. Thank BlogTO for sharing these pics. I am without doubt that these buildings (which probably sit somewhere in the rubble stretch of Tommy Thompson park) were exquisite. Regardless of who designed, financed and built these structures, I hope Toronto can stop tearing down other people's pursuits for personal gain.
urban daddy / November 27, 2011 at 10:33 pm
user-pic
Wonderful article! It really is a toss-up between old buildings which look prettier and would great to attract tourists vs new, practical buildings which people can use.

I had no idea how pretty Toronto Street was and I'm a born and raised Torontonian... I even worked for a little bit on that street...
McRib / November 28, 2011 at 07:02 pm
user-pic
i enjoy all the posters telling us over and over that Toronto is not a 'world class' city.

no shit assholes, nobody except the odd politician actually says Toronto is world class. we know that. we accept that. we also don't really care. living here is nice.

I wonder if dickbags in Portland go around telling people "we're not world class you know, and we never will be!"

Alex / November 29, 2011 at 01:27 pm
user-pic
I think old buildings need to be replaced by newer more efficient ones. You can leave some for heritage purposes, but generally they are simply not as good as newer buildings from a functional perspective. BUT, I also believe newer buildings should aspire to contribute to the urban landscape with unique or beautiful architecture. This is all subjective of course, but generally a flat concrete or glass building is boring and ugly.

To everyone complaining about the condos, some of the new ones look really cool. So not all condos are bad, just the ones with terrible design.

You know, if cities offered to archive and store the old Google Maps Streetview pics then people in the future could literally "drive" around the Toronto of 2010, and any other year that google chooses to update their pics. Wouldn't that be so cool? You would have a visual record of the entire city.
Note: if this post shows up as one giant paragraph, it is not my fault. BlogTO keeps unformatting my posts.
jack / November 30, 2011 at 01:00 pm
user-pic
walk around new york or chicago, look around, and i find myself "why couldn't we have done that? we don't we look like that?." I guess thats the answer.
bob / March 19, 2012 at 04:24 am
user-pic
i use site http://tour-trans.com when i'm looking for passanger transport...

Add a Comment

Other Cities: VancouverMontreal