Ontario's Forgotten Landmarks: Ghosts Of Steeltown

Filed in City
August 11, 2009

Ghosts Of SteeltownLike all larger cities, Hamilton has its architectural ghosts. These empty shells speak to a forgotten past, and point dismally to the future of all buildings. Paraphrasing Paul Virilio, one might say that architecture itself is merely the art of making ruins.

It is hard to believe now, but as recently as a few decades ago, Hamilton Ontario was a major rival of Toronto's when it came to entertainment and the like. Here's a closer look at these ghosts of memories - a look inside some of Hamilton's silent buildings.

Where did one stay, in this booming steeltown? The Royal Connaught Hotel, built in 1914 under an American developer, sits in the middle of downtown Hamilton, a silent giant awaiting redevelopment. Recent plans in this regard, however, have unfortunately fallen through.
Ghosts Of Steeltown
Whenever I arrive in Hamilton to explore, my first stop is always the roof of the city's tallest building, where I am able to see my 'golden triangle' of abandonments from my perch.
Ghosts Of Steeltown
The Lyric Theatre (formerly 'The Century') is a stunning space, but due to a combination of the natural elements and disrepair, has become increasingly unsafe as of late, even for the most avid explorer...
Ghosts Of Steeltown
Above the false ceiling in the main theatre area is the building's original roof, housing a stunning fallen balcony. Sadly, this area is open-air, and extremely unstable...
Ghosts Of Steeltown
Perhaps the city's most noted entropic space is the infamous Lister Block. Built in 1886, then rebuilt just shy of 40 years later due to a massive fire, this galleria-style shopping and business centre sat in disuse for several recent decades, until a series of accidents (a gas leak followed by an 'accidental demolition' of part of the property) in the past year or so finally pressed the city to make a move to save portions of the historic site.
Ghosts Of Steeltown
The view from the roof of the building is particularly beautiful - especially at night, the (former) best time to visit the eerie place...
Ghosts Of Steeltown
There are many lesser known spots around downtown, perhaps not as exciting, but neverthless mysterious and beautiful...
Ghosts Of Steeltown

Ghosts Of Steeltown
One of my favorite old haunts was an old apartment complex a 10-minute walk from the heart of the city; this burn victim lost the entire roof of its upper floor, while still retaining the charred interior details...
Ghosts Of Steeltown
Hamilton will always exist in my mind as a city of conundrums and ghosts; lingering questions will always haunt its streets for me. It strikes me as a bizarre tragicomedy of a modern architectural milieu, which at one end hasn't the means nor the knowledge for rehabilitation, and at the other, lacks the respect needed for proper burial of some of its decaying appendages.
Ghosts Of Steeltown

(To see more snaps of decay from this beautiful city, as well as high-res. versions of those pictured above, you can check out my flickr slide show below.)

oterry on August 11, 2009 at 9:57 AM

Once again, thank you! Fantastic job of documenting these beautiful places.

nb on August 11, 2009 at 11:02 AM

beautiful...this makes me see hamilton in a new light.

Luciano Galasso on August 11, 2009 at 11:08 AM

These photos are amazing. I hope that if an NHL team ends up in Hamilton that it will allow the city to become known for something more than steel and that it will push the government to do something about cleaning up the city.
Luciano Galasso

Jane on August 11, 2009 at 11:15 AM

Wow the Royal Connaught Hotel is beautiful, definitely needs to be restored. I second Luciano's comments re the hockey team in Hamilton, this hotel should be the first thing to get restored!!

KO on August 11, 2009 at 11:16 AM

Absolutely gorgeous pictures and a beautiful article. Thank you. I like the last lines you wrote ("It strikes me as a bizarre tragicomedy of a modern architectural milieu...") in particular. Time and a time again, I find it so amazing that North American cities really have these huge, often historical and could-be-grand buildings that just sit there abandoned, right downtown. I can nowadays understand how that happens, knowing some of the realities of how 'developers' and property business are seen and managed here, but it still amazes me - how wasteful and irrational it is, to my mind. I'm more used to old buildings getting constantly restored, refurbished and reused in Europe. Not that all of Europe is so pristine either but there is not the same kind of situation in where I come from, in Scandinavia, or most of Western Europe - you don't generally see huge unused properties there.

mark on August 11, 2009 at 11:39 AM

Absolutely amazing!!! Great work!

Annie on August 11, 2009 at 12:04 PM

I agree with all the above comments; once again, a well-written article combined with stunning photographs.

This is truly your calling.

A.

donna on August 11, 2009 at 12:41 PM

Hamilton is actually a wonderful city with a bad rap. Hopefully, articles like this will help show it's forgotten beauty.

sam on August 11, 2009 at 12:46 PM

as a born and raised hamiltonian, i am quite familiar with many of the buildings and areas, and can even recall when some of them were still in use as a child and young adult -- though it pains me to see them in their current condition, thanks for capturing them so beautifully

Joanne on August 11, 2009 at 2:08 PM

I am a recent transplant from Toronto to Hamilton and much to my surprise am learning that the city holds a lot more charm and beauty than what you see from the skyway. I read with earnest last year about the attempt to revitalize Lister Block. We can still hope. It is truly amazing how many graceful elderly buildings with so much gorgeous detail and architecture are not being showcased as the gems that they are. You have a great eye and stunning photos. Thanks for sharing them!

Ratpick on August 11, 2009 at 2:30 PM , replying to a comment from KO

No vacant old buildings in Europe? Really? I beg to differ, friend.

But you are very correct about how wasteful and irrational we can be when it comes to redeveloping.

Bubba on August 11, 2009 at 3:03 PM

i've seen many of these building in downtown Hamilton, it's sad thing to see a city dying.

Sharif on August 11, 2009 at 4:42 PM

These are beautiful captures. I had no idea about these architectural landmarks in Hamilton. Thanks!

Jonathan on August 11, 2009 at 4:54 PM

Thanks, guys - I'm glad you liked the images; many are more than a few years old ; P

jonathan@blogTO

james on August 11, 2009 at 5:07 PM

the first building in the flikr photo series is the building where i live. it IS a nice place. it is NOT abandoned. wtf?

Jonathan on August 11, 2009 at 5:22 PM

james: I believe that when the shot was taken (3-6 years ago...ish), it was vacant / under reno.

Correct me if I'm wrong ; P

jonathan@blogTO

james on August 11, 2009 at 5:45 PM , replying to a comment from Jonathan

jonathon: that's possible (i've only been there for a year or so), although the sign on the side ("for rent: newly renovated apts ..") is for apartments in that building. it's up now, and gets taken down and put back up based on space available there.

no hard feelings!
thought the piece as a whole was great.

Jonathan on August 11, 2009 at 8:53 PM

james; heh - I remember when I saw that sign I was like "hmm...maybe"; seems like the perfect spot; charm of distance from the city-city, and all those nice restaurants and stores nearby; my favorite art store closed down, though - on your strip - forget what it was called, but I bought a Lister Block (and some other) silk-screened shirts there that were very nice.

Beautiful city.

jonathan@blogTO

YW. on August 11, 2009 at 11:29 PM

First of all, I think your photos look great! And I'm wondering, the Royal Connaught Hotel and the Lyric Theater, do they still look like that today? And can anyone just go in randomly and explore the two places (or are there Visitor Hours)?

Mickie Collins on August 12, 2009 at 1:02 AM

I came to Canada from England just over 6 years ago and fell in love with Hamilton and never left. I commend Hamilton's Environment Department for the marvellous way in which it has lanscaped the City in recent years, now it is time to do something about the Historical aspect of the City before it is lost forever. Hamilton has such a rich diverstiy of beautiful Architecture in both its dwellings and public buildings. If such a thing is not already in place. it begs a Government initiative to bring in a "Listed Building" programme of Preservation Orders to restore and maintain them, as has been done in Britain for many years now with all Buildings of Architectural or Historical significance.

steel buidings on August 12, 2009 at 7:10 AM

Its a beautiful article combined with amazing photographs...its like touring the city while reading...

Anon. on August 12, 2009 at 9:19 AM

I had a prom at the royal connaught hotel in 1990.
I can't believe it has deteriorated that much since then.
I even stayed in the hotel.
It is so sad.
It was such a great place.
Hamilton has so much untapped potential.
downtown in the 70's and early 80's was the place to be.
Now it is the place for strip clubs and bingo halls.
So sad.

priscilla on August 12, 2009 at 9:28 AM

My husband and I went to Hamilton for our first wedding anniversary.
I love this city, from the grand entrance on arrival from Toronto, to the downtown core's beautiful architecture. Compared to TO it has geography, (sandwiched between the lake and the escarpment) which makes for great vistas. Each neighbourhood has its own particular look and feel and is incredibly diverse. I'm amazed that more people don't visit. Forget about the stale and touristy town of Niagara on the Lake around the corner, this place has beauty and heart.

Michelle on August 12, 2009 at 11:06 AM

We spent our wedding night at the Royal Connaught. Sadly, these photos remind of me of scenes from the Titanic (and I don't mean that in a comic way). Makes me inexpressibly sad to look at them.

hollie on August 12, 2009 at 9:11 PM

I believe your favourite art store may have been "Mixed Media"? And it hasn't closed down, it just moved down a couple of doors, on the southeast corner of James and Cannon. There's a lot of great things happening down there.

Beautiful photos!

dave on August 12, 2009 at 11:20 PM

Hi Jonathan - as Hollie mentioned your favourite art store didn't close down - we moved south to the corner of James and Cannon.

We are renovating a building that was owned by a slumlord from T.O and are turning the upstairs into studios and the groundfloor has Mixed Media, Downtown Bike Hounds and White Elephant Vintage.

Come and visit us - I'll give you a tour!

Ruth on August 15, 2009 at 12:52 PM

I've moved to Hamilton for school from New Brunswick and the decay in the city is just disgusting. There's so much beautiful architecture that could and has been preserved in my home province that has been let to rot and decay here. Nobody can say that Hamilton is worse-off economically than New Brunswick. So it's a matter of will in the right places to cherish the city's past and make the city an enjoyable place to live in. It's just a tragedy to let these places go to waste.

Rachel on August 17, 2009 at 3:14 PM

Beautiful documentation...but what you can't see it Hamilton's community spirit. The winds of change are bringing Hamilton back, slowly, but it's coming.
AM

Marianne on September 4, 2009 at 10:20 PM

I'm glad I found this page. My husband and I arrived in Hamilton from California just five nights ago for an extended stay, and I've been stunned by the architectural beauties that are in sad states of neglect. Nor can I find much of anything online about the buildings or the neighborhoods of Hamilton (I had a great wander around James Street North just this afternoon). But I agree with Rachel--in the short time I've been here the city has impressed me as a place with some real grit and spirit (and I'm speaking as a native of the Bronx).

Can anyone recommend a good guide to the city--either online or in print?

mickie on September 5, 2009 at 6:56 AM

Hi Marianne, this page has lots of interesting links - I am sure you will find something of interest or information that you seek.

Enjoy your Stay in "Our" Wonderful, Diverse and Beautiful City of Waterfalls.

Mickie Collins

mickie on September 5, 2009 at 6:57 AM

Hi Marianne - and now you have sootted my, Ahemm... deliberate mistake (DUH!) - here is the url:-

http://www.myhamilton.ca/myhamilton/CityandGovernment

Regards,

Mickie

Jonathan on September 5, 2009 at 11:21 AM

Marianne, between what I e-mailed you and mickie's addition, I think you should fill your time well : )

jonathan@blogTO

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