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BarChef

Photo: Eugen Sakhnenko

Posted by Eugen Sakhenko / June 15, 2009

Confession: I went into BarChef with a bad attitude, having already decided that I wouldn't like it. Touted as Toronto's answer to "cocktail culture" (whatever that is) and boasting drinks in the $20 range, neologisms like "mixologists" on BarChef's website were just the homemade maraschino cherry on the dry Manhattan of my disdain. As a no-frills drinker who sticks to beer and dive bars, I have a natural aversion to trendy hotspots. Especially when it seems like the words "trendy hotspot" might actually have been written into the business plan.

That said, my friends and I sat down to a round of cocktails off BarChef's $8 Recession Menu and one boozy, refreshing sip of my My Tie, with its perfect, harmonious blend of rum, fresh orange, homemade almond orgeat, and soda, quickly had this dour pragmatist singing the praises of barchefery (neologism mine).

Everything at BarChef is made by hand, or done the hard way; from the rows of medicinal-looking jars on the counter housing the bar's pharmacopeia of homemade bitters and syrups, to the 20 lb ice block from which chunks are hand-chipped as needed. Every good chef knows that quality ingredients are the first order of business and we had to agree that our drinks - respectively the My Tie, the Four-Seven-Two made with bourbon and homemade cola bitters, and the Elixir with vodka and homemade grapefruit bitters - were the best we'd ever had. Although we'd planned for one cheap drink each and a quick exit, we were unable to resist the temptation to have another, exciting round.

After the reasonably-priced but profoundly impressive Recession Menu, the Sweet or Sour Menus are a logical next step up. These drinks are slightly fancier and, of course, more expensive. I could've put away ten or twelve of the bananas-foster-tasting Caramelized Banana, a $12 concoction of salted butter, coconut puree, banana and spiced rum, if my wallet would've allowed it. My friend sung the praises of Van Gogh's Downfall, and assured me that the bitters, orange blossom water, lemon, cloves, and star anise were the perfect complement to absinthe's strong taste.

The fourth menu category is the Molecular Menu, Barchef's true specialty. Drinks on this menu range in price from $20 to $45 and are mixologized (I think I've really got the hang of this) with the focus on experimentation and presentation that are characteristic of molecular gastronomy - the scientific study of chemical processes that occur in cooking (i.e. What would happen if we blowtorched this egg white?).

Our knowledgeable waitress won us over to it by bringing us a round of Mojito Raviolis to sample; a blend of mint, lime, sugar and rum contained in a tiny gelationous bubble that burst delightfully in our mouths with a pop. A Freestyle off the Molecular Menu was the next drink to visit our table, but I found the spicy Sidecar-inspired seafoam, dense egg-white topping, and decorative plate of burning hickory chips to be overwhelming and even a bit silly. We asked the waitress to take the hickory chips away while fanning the smoke out of our faces.

Turning our pockets out to pay the bill, we had to admit that the drinks were beyond good and the experience was fun, even if the atmosphere was a bit overstyled for our tastes. The room is long and dark, with tall tables and high chairs in the back and a lounge area in the front. The bar boasts live DJs on Friday and Saturday night, which I'm told get busy, and the rest of the time it's whatever's on the iPod - an unexpected mix of R&B, classic rock remixes and hits through the ages.

There is a small menu of reasonably-priced snacks, from edamame and fries to oysters. Expect to keep company with older drinkers with a taste for the finer things, the style-and-status-conscious King West set, and loyal followers of the bar's co-owner and award-winning mixologist, Frankie Solarik.

Writing by Jessica McGann

Additional Details

Beers on Tap:
None
Signature Drink:
Anything made with a blow torch
Bar Snacks:
Edamame,Fries,Oysters
Patio:
No
Music/Genre:
R&B, classic rock remixes
Live Music:
No
Who Goes There:
The style-and-status-conscious King West set, and loyal followers of the bar's co-owner and award-winning mixologist, Frankie Solarik
Hours:
Tuesday to Sundays from 5:30pm to late

Discussion

10 Comments

Aleslinger / June 15, 2009 at 11:00 AM
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Here's the National Post's review, also positive:

http://network.nationalpost.com/np/blogs/theappetizer/archive/2009/04/04/bending-elbows-something-explosive-going-on-at-barchef.aspx

Jane / August 9, 2009 at 9:57 AM
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Really bad place. The drinks are overpriced and the staff are crude and pretentious.

Nick / February 6, 2010 at 10:39 AM
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Actually, it's a really GOOD place. Drinks are expensive, but so is rent on Queen West so if you want cheap drinks hit up Jack Astor's in Brampton. Staff was nice, so was the decor. My only complaint was that is was quite warm in there, but otherwise very good.

Sean / October 19, 2010 at 11:44 AM
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There is nothing else quite like Barchef in Toronto. If your tired of the same watering holes that only provides beer, mixed drinks and a sub par atmosphere, than Barchef is for you. It's a bar that has style without the attitude. The decor is sleek, simple and cool. The music is upbeat and trendy without distracting you from an intimate conversation. The cocktails come in an amazing variety of flavors that will fill all the senses. The bartenders Frankie and Aaron should have their PHD is cocktail mixology. Throw any base alcohol (vodka, gin, absinthe etc.) and a secondary taste (sour, sweet etc) at them to challenge them to a freestyle experience - where they will create a wonderful concoction tailored to your tastes. If you want to feel like your in NYC (PDT, B East, Death & Co), LA (The Varnish), or Chicago (Not Telling) for the evening - you've got to swing over to Barchef. Make sure you get a seat at the bar for a view of all the action. Frank and Aaron are the real deal in the mixology biz.Cheers!

Brandon / February 7, 2011 at 1:03 AM
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Barchef is fantastic. The drinks are definitely worth the $12-25 -- top-shelf liquor and homemade infusions. Cool vibe, relatively non-douchey crowd and good customer service...none of which can be said about the only other non-TTS cocktail bar in Toronto, Goodnight.

Robert / March 16, 2011 at 8:46 AM
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Frankie definitely knows how to make a cocktail.
That being said, other DJs & conscientious guests should know that:
*last may - barchef hired me as their DJ Fri + Sat nites (nothing but compliments from guests since then)
*november - bChef starts playing my recorded 5.5h mixes
*march 9 - bChef mgr txts me for MORE recorded 8h mixes for Tues-Thurs, but says normal hourly rate is too much
*march 12 - bChef mgr fires me b/c they "aren't feeling" my music, no further explanation

Nikolas / December 18, 2011 at 8:48 AM
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It was a nice experience, but an experience that I think I can only afford every so often! The waitress my friends and I had was really good and knowledgeable of everything they had which was nice to see. The place is quality, the drinks are amazing (although a bit pricey), and the atmosphere is pure chill. Conversation and people having a good time fill the air - really nice spot.

J*town / August 14, 2012 at 10:30 PM
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BarChef serves up a great cocktail! One can truly taste the complex flavours in the drinks they offer, which I find sets them apart from a lot of other decent places in the city.

Leigh / March 6, 2013 at 6:56 PM
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Did anyone have trouble getting in? They don't take reservations and I would love to know when they start to get busy so I can beat the rush

d / February 14, 2014 at 8:09 PM
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I've heard it's a great place for a first date if you want to impress ...

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