SAKU means crunchy. A word that, in Japanese, phonetically mimics the crisp chomp of the foods that it describes, it's an ideal name for a spot built around golden, audibly crackly temptations.

Katsu is never a hard sell. A popular Japanese dish made of breaded and deep-fried meat, vegetables or seafood, it appeases the near-universal yen for food that's texturally exciting, deeply savoury and seductively naughty.

If you're going to give in to katsu's many charms, SAKU is a comfortable, modern place to do so. Founded in Vancouver in 2018, the chain has grown to six locations, including its first in Toronto, which opened in November.

After years of expansion out west, the new location was chosen, a company representative says, in response to repeated customer requests to bring the brand east.

Modelled after its sister spots, the Toronto restaurant is bright and inviting and, it should be noted, happily absent of any funk of grease despite the amount of deep-frying going on behind closed doors.

Awash in a rainbow of beige shades, every corner calls to mind the team's signature item. That dish? Tokujyo Rosu Katsu ($29), a hulking, juicy offering made with premium pork loin. Tender, with a more even meat-to-crust ratio, Hire Katsu ($27) is made from a thinner pork filet.

For those who abstain from pork, there are several options, including Chicken Thigh Katsu ($26), seafood or Whitefish Katsu ($27) and breaded, bronzed veggies given the, you guessed it, katsu treatment.

What of the item you've likely seen on Instagram? The one with a foot-long cheese pull that's left many an influencer wide-eyed and rapturous? That's the Cheese Katsu ($27), an option constructed from mozzarella wrapped in thinly sliced pork loin, then cooked until it's molten and as stretchy as the elastic waistband you'll wish you were wearing.

A platter named the Zenbu Katsu ($43), billed as "an assortment of everything for the katsu lover," is as promised.

With hire, rosu, chicken thigh, hotate, ebi, eggplant and pumpkin katsu, it's a comprehensive study in what a variety of ingredients taste like after being coated in fresh panko and submerged in sizzling hot oil.

The menu at SAKU isn't vast. Instead, it's neat and concise with little variation, save for curry, udon and warming Katsu Nabe ($29.50), to distract from the central theme.

What sets the restaurant apart is the quality of ingredients and attention to detail evident in every dish. From cutlets and loins to thighs and vegetables, every element feels elite—whether that means fresh and juicy, sizable or just seriously good. 

Even the panko and oil used for frying were specifically selected from amongst a cluster of options. Think these are any old breadcrumbs? Think again. The team tested hundreds of varieties before settling on the one that consistently yielded the best flavour and crispiest bite.

Rather than receive a simple plate or bowl, diners at SAKU are presented with a tray loaded with garnishes and sides. If choose-your-own-adventure is your style, you'll swoon at the chance to mix and sample, garnish, dip, drizzle and experiment at will.

Parked in a tiny mortar, sesame seeds arrive with a pestle, for à la minute grinding. There's tangy tonkatsu sauce, vibrant Japanese pickles, mustard and lemon salt, plus steamed rice, shredded cabbage and steaming tonjiru (the last three of which are unlimited, should the portion size not suffice).

Made fresh daily, the signature sesame dressing is a source of pride that's nutty and delicate, and delicious, dribbled haphazardly onto everything in sight.

SAKU is located at 22 Edward Street.