Rooh is a modern Indian restaurant in Toronto with Michelin connections. From the team behind Bar Goa, it's a more approachable sister spot serving a vast collection of authentic dishes.

Opened in August, Rooh, which means soul in Hindi, was initially envisioned as a consolation prize for diners unable to snag a table at Michelin-recommended Bar Goa.

"Bar Goa was our first Indian restaurant," says Madhusmita Patra, who owns both restaurants with her husband, Jay Patra. Though the couple have a long history in hospitality, Bar Goa marked their first foray into Indian cuisine. "We saw how popular Indian cuisine is."

Buoyed by Bar Goa's success, the duo decided to expand. "We thought we should open another Indian restaurant, something nearby," she explains. "Sometimes we get so busy. We get catering orders. We get a party of 100 people we are not able to accommodate because the Bar Goa space is not enough. We thought, 'Let's get something close by because we don't want to lose those guests.'"

Designed with the same eye for drama as its sister, Rooh boasts a riotous colour scheme, embellished walls and plenty of luxe finishes. Still, despite its veneer of opulence and the fact, as Patra says, that the team wants to "maintain the same level of service and hospitality at both locations," the restaurant's main selling point may just be its reasonable prices.

"We want to cater to all sorts of people," states Patra. "My main goal in Rooh is to welcome everyone. It's very budget-friendly. You can get a full meal for under $20 here."

Inspired by India's impossibly varied culinary landscape, Rooh's menu includes pages of options. "I don't want people to think we only have five dishes or six dishes. I want to give people vast choices, like 30 or 40 choices."

What begins with chaat, momos, and myriad appetizers leads to vegetarian and meat-based mains, biryanis, breads, and a solid Hakka section that brings Desi-style Chinese street food to Little Italy.

There are also plenty of cocktails and mocktails, each, says Patra, made with an Indian twist.

To start, you might sample the Rooh Mirage ($18), a drink that marries gin and cardamom mezcal with melon liqueur, cucumber and absinthe.

Alternatively, the astonishingly azure Blue Lagoon ($13) might catch your eye. The tropics distilled, it's a beachy blend of white rum, Malibu and peach liqueurs with sparkling wine and Blue Curaçao.

A floral shot of lychee liqueur brightens up vodka and lemon in the Tropical Muse ($14) while the Bollywood Affair ($15), named for the chokehold Bollywood gossip has on India's populace, is a light and floral sipper made with gulkand-infused whisky, cinnamon, ginger and lemon.

Though decision-making at Rooh is a monstrous task, it's hard to go wrong thanks to a team adept at spicing and saucing.

Mildly spiced, Hakka Garlic Chicken Dry ($15) offers a series of savoury, crunchy first bites.

Coated in gossamer batter, Dynamite Shrimp ($21) are crisp and sweet, their dynamite sauce delivering a composed hit of heat rather than a violent explosion.

Appetizers that could double as mains, Reshmi Chicken Seekh Kebab ($16) and Cheese Burst Malai Chaap ($16) need little more than naan and, perhaps, one of the kitchen's many sides to feel complete.

Herbaceous and generously seasoned, tender minced chicken is cooked in a tandoor oven for kebabs with a whisper of smoke.

Made from roasted soy beans, the chaap arrives in a pool of spiced, cream-based sauce, with a liberal amount of cheese adding even more plush richness to every morsel.

There's also zippy Greek Salad ($10), for diners yearning for greens.

A Keralan specialty, Banana Leaf Pomfret ($19) is flavoured with a masala dabba's contents, then plated with mint chutney and house-pickled onions. Served whole, with its skeletal system still very much intact, it's a meal that makes you work. Still, dig your way through the fragrant banana leaf, score a delicate piece of fish, and you won't mind the extra effort.

For the team at Rooh, there's only one goal to reach at every service: "The food should touch diners' soul, so that they will remember us and will want to come back again," says Patra. 

With so many dishes to discover, you may need to schedule several visits.

Rooh is located at 633 College Street.