Primadonna is Toronto's latest destination for Italian-American fare, and it's like dining inside a classic Hollywood mob flick.

Here, chicken parm is served tableside, and fur coats, while not mandatory, feel fitting given the mobster-meets-mob-wife inspiration of the restaurant's aesthetic.

Espresso martinis are non-negotiable, as are heaping portions of pasta smothered in red sauce.

Located at the intersection of King Street West and Portland Street, inside the new multi-level dining hub Portland Square, the restaurant comes from local hospitality veterans Charles Khabouth and Danny Soberan of INK Entertainment.

Channelling the likes of The Sopranos, My Cousin Vinny, and The Godfather, the restaurant is romantic and moody with a flair for the dramatic, dripping in red and outfitted with plush velvet banquettes, checkered tablecloths, and vintage art. 

With ample seating, a private dining room, and a rooftop patio that will reopen when the warmer months return, the space is designed to host the largest of parties. Expect loud tables packed with family and friends. 

Behind the menu is Executive Chef Marc Cheng, who also oversees Primadonna's downstairs neighbour, Honey's Chinese.

"The whole concept is fun and approachable, and yes, always with a bit of refinement. We don't do things haphazardly," says Cheng. "Primadonna is everything I've ever seen in an Italian-American movie - big plates, everybody sharing."

Built on hearty, comforting classics, every dish balances flavour and familiarity. 

Take the Spaghetti and Meatballs ($26). A nostalgic Sunday supper for many and a staple of Italian-American cooking, this one comes with tender meatballs made from a mix of ground veal and pork, braised in a simple tomato sauce.

When asked his secret to a really good sauce, Chef Cheng credits two ingredients: San Marzano tomatoes and leftover Parmesan rinds.

The popular Spicy Vodka Rigatoni ($25) features a rosé sauce made from a blend of pomodoro, cream, and Calabrian chilis that promise to bring the heat. Served perfectly al dente, the dish is finished with freshly shaved Parmesan and crispy basil leaves. 

Of course, Cheng couldn't design an Italian-American menu without a New York-style slice. The Pepperoni Pizza ($32) is all pep and no fuss, topped with tomato sauce, creamy fior di latte, and Ezzo pepperoni, which is widely considered the gold standard among pizza-pep enthusiasts thanks to its signature cup-shaped discs. 

The pizza dough gets made in-house, and it does exactly what good dough should. It's crispy, light, a little chewy, and sturdy enough to hold the sauce and toppings without going soggy. 

Coveted as a social media must-try is the tableside Chicken Parmigiana ($34). An obscenely large cutlet is pounded thin, breaded, and fried golden brown, before being served in their signature spicy vodka sauce. The whole thing is topped with a generous blanket of melty mozzarella. 

On a lighter note, there's the Caprese ($22). Ripe tomato and buffalo mozzarella are sliced to match, then served with a drizzle of fruity olive oil, fresh basil, and a balsamic glaze on the side. It's bright and refreshing, though the portion may feel a little lean for the price.

The Prosciutto E Melone ($21) is a winning combination of sweet and salty. Topped with fresh mint, it goes great with a signature cocktail from the bar. 

The Primadonna Negroni ($18) is a classic rendition of Tanqueray gin, Aperitivo, and white vermouth, rounded out with rhubarb and dried strawberry for a hint of subtle sweetness.

Despite what the name suggests, the El Diablo ($22) leans bright and citrusy, made with Grey Goose vodka, Amaro Nonino, passion fruit purée, tangerine syrup, and a splash of prosecco.

The Cosa Nostra ($18) is a clean, refreshing blend of Malfy gin, limoncello, lime, mint simple syrup, and Angostura bitters. 

Now, dessert is where Primadonna really lets loose.

The Tiramisu ($14) arrives in a fluted glass, all layered up with espresso-soaked ladyfingers, mascarpone cream, and chocolate chips. It's the kind of dessert you pretend you'll share but absolutely won't.

The Bigne ($14) pairs airy Italian profiteroles with creamy vanilla ice cream and warm chocolate sauce for an easy way to end the night on a sweet note. 

Already a buzzing destination, Primadonna keeps the rules simple. Go for the cocktails and red sauce classics, stay for the company, and most importantly, never go against the family. 

Primadonna is located on the fourth floor at 600 King Street West.