Noyaa
Noyaa isn't a name with immediate familiarity. Whatever images it conjures in your mind, they're likely worlds away from reality—a sultry, sleek space stretching across Toronto's The Well. A restaurant where sushi frolics on Ferris wheels, cocktails glow from within, and the menu feels as vast as the Silk Road that inspired it, Noyaa is a startling addition to the city's dining scene.
"Life is too short for boring food," exclaims Noyaa executive chef Ciprian Gabriel Porumbacean. At Noyaa, it seems to be too short for anything pedestrian.
A 7000-square-foot space, the restaurant brings the drama, and then some. Gilded here, it's luminous there, with imported tiles, life-sized sculptures and commanding light fixtures emphatically kicking ho-hum to the door.
A first Canadian venue for Dubai-based Tribes Hospitality Investment Group, Noyaa is restaurant and nightlife venue all rolled into one. With the Silk Road as its muse, it draws on Asian, Mediterranean and European traditions and culture for its broad approach to cuisine and décor.
Designed to offer temptation no matter the craving, Noyaa's breadth of offerings is as expansive as the space. "The menu is a journey," explains Porumbacean. With starters, raw items, veggies, seafood and hearty beef dishes, plus dim sum and sushi to contemplate, it's a voyage best planned over drinks.
Another hefty tome, Noyaa's cocktail menu is designed for bookworms with a thing for spirits. Divided by region, each section revolves around distinct, often rare, ingredients and eye-catching accoutrements.
Set in the midst of a lush (if artificial) garden, Northern Lands ($42) nods to Asia, with chaga-infused Don Julio Blanco, strawberry soju, amaretto and bright umeshu liqueur. Emerging from a haze of palo santo smoke, it's a drink that's floral, sweet and noticeably earthy.
Warm and aromatic, the Nomad ($42) blends Ketel One and kumis with Hennessy and wild honey cordial. Glowing, care of an electromagnetic Tesla base and glass, it's a heady, spicy sipper.
Oyster-infused Tanqueray 10 and mineral cordial, meanwhile, give a saline edge to the Oyster Spritz ($42). The most approachable of the lot, it's an easy-drinking option for imbibers looking to dip their toes into the unknown.
Alongside, Edamame ($10) and Lobster Tempura ($56) are just two of the menu's many shared starters.
Blanched and then finished on a robata grill, the edamame are kissed with tangy Vietnamese-style sauce, then dusted with togarashi seasoning and olive oil. Groundbreaking? No. But the dressing and smoke give the ubiquitous morsels distinctive pep.
Sourced in Nova Scotia, the lobster is tender and sweet—tempura batter clinging lightly to its every crevice and yuzu cayenne aioli adding brightness to every bite.
A taco in concept only, Wagyu Nori Taco ($31) pairs a madly crisp nori shell with generously seasoned minced wagyu striploin. Flavoured with garlic ponzu aioli and winter truffle, a slick of sinus-clearing karashi mustard to one side, it's the appetizer equivalent of a starter's pistol.
Keep the momentum going with the giddy drama of the Isan Tower ($135). The team's ode to the Ain Dubai—the world's tallest and largest observation wheel—the structure is a striking pedestal for the chef's sushi selection.
Flown in twice weekly, its star ingredients range from Scottish salmon and king madai, to botan-ebi and bluefin tuna, in lean and extra fatty. One constant? Chef's signature spicy tuna maki, shocked with dry miso and confit myoga, then crowned with glistening kimchi granita.
Mains at Noyaa range from the ultra-chichi to the more accessible, such as saffron-scented Noyaa Risotto ($39). Made from carnaroli rice that's been patiently cooked in dashi, it's a creamy, saucy pool sharpened with lemon and sudachi and topped with grilled seafood.
Marinated in yuzu and two types of miso, Miso Black Cod ($62) is assertively sticky and savoury, its silky flesh buttery and tender under its umami varnish. For balance? An accompanying mound of silky sweet potato and a bouquet of pickled daikon.
A dish that's unlikely to survive seasonal menu changes, A4 Wagyu Beef Ribs ($68) will be sorely missed.
Treated to a 14-hour sous vide snooze in a galbi-esque sauce, the meat sheds any hint of chew. Instead, what emerges is succulent, rich and fragrant, its lacquered exterior decorated with perky dots of pineapple gel. Completing the meat-and-potatoes model is a hefty slab of potato mille feuille layered with bechamel and cheese.
Deliberately made to satisfy without cloying taste buds, desserts at Noyaa are aesthetic final bites.
Ripe and juicy, Strawberry Cheesecake ($15) features an exuberant array of berry elements—from gel and caramel to reduction and compote—inside a fine white chocolate shell. Buttery Brie de Meaux joins cream cheese in a whipped filling that's fluffy, light and unique enough to surprise.
"Noyaa blends the elegance of Asia with the party vibe of the Mediterranean," says director of operations Andrea Rossetti. As the sun sets on the glowing room, the music intensifies, and undulating performers command attention, you'll understand exactly what he means.
Noyaa is located at 486 Front St. W.
Fareen Karim