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Travel

Hamilton Bound!

Posted by Robin Sharp / April 5, 2009

hamilton ontarioThe terms 'Hamilton, Ontario' and 'tourist destination' don't usually find themselves in the same sentence. That's just the way it is.

Nonetheless, having never tasted the metallic lips of Steeltown myself, I eventually yielded to my urge to 'discover'. I hopped on the GO Train for eighteen dollars return (so glamorous; I felt like I was on Canadian television in 2005) and made my way to that other city on the lake.

The obvious first stop was the Art Gallery of Hamilton. The building, though centrally located, is uninviting; it's one of those brutal 1970's concrete towers we have so many of in Toronto.

Once you get inside the gallery space is bright and modern, however. Admission to the second floor is free, so that's where I went; their Canadian collection is small but surprisingly striking and varied. Of course the second floor only took about half an hour of my day to peruse.

hamilton ontario loyalist

The highlight of my trip may have been the bizarre public monuments that line the downtown core. There was a huge statue dedicated to the founding fathers of southern Ontario: American Loyalists (trying its very best to make them sound daring and heroic), a large brass plaque commemorating the 'first birth control clinic' in Canada and a monument on Main street dedicated to 'accidental workplace fatalities' that I found kind of creepy.

hamilton ontario

I don't understand why it had to feature a patina'd man without a head clinging to the edge of rusty wall. I'm going to have nightmares about him tonight.

hamilton ontario abandoned

It's obvious the recession has battered the city; there were many large art deco buildings shuttered and closed to the public, not too mention regular storefronts.

hamilton ontario

My favourite abandoned building was a former vaudeville theatre which ran movies until 1989; it was closed after the local mall installed a multiplex.

hamilton ontario

All in all Steeltown is a rougher, rockier, more industrial version of Toronto. There isn't too much to see there on a day trip that you can't find at, say, St. Clair and Keele (they should rename that intersection 'Little Hamilton.')

Photos by Mr. Robin Sharp

Discussion

37 Comments

Jonathan@blogTO / April 5, 2009 at 04:52 pm
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Nice snaps!

The Royal Conought (sp?) has actually been closed for years and years, waaaay before the recession. I should dig up some interior/roof shots and to an 'Ontario's Forgotten Landmarks' on it : D

jonathan@blogTO
Torontonian / April 5, 2009 at 05:41 pm
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The spelling of the hotel is Royal Connaught.
rdaner / April 5, 2009 at 05:55 pm
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I believe that one long abandoned building, the Lister Block, is finally being renovated.
Lindsay / April 5, 2009 at 06:13 pm
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I recently moved close to Hamilton (from the GTA, born & raised) and am learning to really love it. It's certainly a different type of city but there are many saving graces especially if you look beyond the downtown core. For example, surrounding the city are many trails and waterfalls which I'm told are quite lovely (I've yet to go explore those, but plan on it once it's nicer weather). Also, I'm learning to love the live music venues- The Casbah & Pepper Jacks get in some very respectable bands/artists. Plus there's a very decent local music scene. Sure, Hamilton will never be Toronto (and I LOVE Toronto), but if given a chance, it's actually not a bad place to live and at the moment I'm really enjoying exploring its different neighbourhoods and what it has to offer.
Jonathan / April 5, 2009 at 07:13 pm
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If heading in from Union, avoid the GO train and take the Hamilton Express GO bus instead. It's substantially faster and runs twice as often. A local saying that you can be in Hamilton on the bus before the train leaves Toronto is really only slightly exxagerated. The train doesn't even take you all the way to Hamilton outside rush hour anyways.

The review kind of reminds me of reviews of Toronto by tourists who stay within a three block radius of The Sheraton because they assumed there was nothing worth seeing further from that and then say "Toronto is boring".
Jonathan@blogTO / April 5, 2009 at 07:26 pm
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I love the Hamilton express, but you don't get to go over that badass bridge on it ; /

Ya, Lister is finally getting a redo; I miss that place in its state like maybe 8 years ago - since then it started to 'melt' - just became gross after a while, and not worth the stupid-hard trek to get inside... the Lyric theatre is pretty badass too, but is incredibly unsafe - and that's coming from me...haha.

Jonathan@blogTO
RM / April 5, 2009 at 07:30 pm
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Ugh! The bleak and condescending view of Hamilton is so boring and cliched. This is an appallingly bad and ill-informed article that does a disservice to the long-suffering city. You wouldn't know it from this article (definitely written after an hour's trip into Hamilton) but the city's downtown is actually filled with plenty of architectural gems and up-and-coming neighbourhoods.

Some of the more glaring inaccuracies: the AGH (Art Gallery of Hamilton) is located within a wonderfully renovated (and decidedly non-Brutalist) space designed by Bruce Kuwabara: http://www.artgalleryofhamilton.on.ca/aa_index.php. Did the writer even look at/enter the art gallery? Also, as far as I know there are no "art deco buildings shuttered" in the downtown. While there are indeed shuttered buildings (the Lister Block and the Royal Connaught being prime examples), all Hamilton's Art Deco buildings are open and flourishing, such as the GO station, Liuna Station, and the old post office. The writer appears to have no idea what "Art Deco" constitutes at all.

Justin / April 5, 2009 at 08:09 pm
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A "more industrial version of Toronto" is all you have to say about Hamilton? I guess your analogy is just about as limited as the effort you put into planning your visit to the city and to write this article.
Robin Sharp / April 5, 2009 at 08:13 pm
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@RM

Uhh...hello? The article explicitly says "once you get inside the gallery space is bright and modern"...that suggests to me that the author went inside the gallery.

Obviously my grasp on art deco is much firmer than yours on mid-century brutalism, which the gallery certainly is. The facade of this 'shuttered' Hamilton building looks pretty art deco to me...

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_RrFTIiSH0qg/SdlH35ebHSI/AAAAAAAAAFY/Fu4ZRrpQwhI/s1600-h/Art+Deco+Closed.jpg
Justin / April 5, 2009 at 08:32 pm
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Wow, riding on the GO Train must have been such an exciting novelty for you, eh?
Robin Sharp / April 5, 2009 at 08:54 pm
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I do understand that it is difficult to get a sense of a place on a day trip, I'm sure there's plenty of things that I missed about the city. I had a good time there.
James / April 5, 2009 at 09:11 pm
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I lived in Hamilton for a few years when I was in College. Although it doesn't compare to living in Downtown T.O., there are things I do miss including the following:

- Chicago's Pizza Restaurant
- Red Rockets Wings
- The Bruce Trail
- Hiking in Dundas
- Biking/roller blading along the harbour front
- Running up and down the escarpment stairs (@Chedoke Golf Course)
- Cheap drinks at Billy Bob's
- Live music @ Silante pub

This list turned out to be longer than I thought.. I guess I do miss Hamilton after all.
Bradley Wentworth / April 5, 2009 at 10:11 pm
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Hamilton actually has my favourite café in the world: My Dog Joe, on the North side of King St W in Westdale, a block before Sterling in a little plaza next to a Subway and the Westdale Theatre. Mmmm savoury southwest muffins!

Downtown, on King William St just off of James St is a really cool co-op run café/restaurant/community space called the Skydragon center. ALWAYS worth a visit!
James / April 5, 2009 at 10:25 pm
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I thought I smelled some Toronto smugness roll into town this weekend. I won't rehash all of the obvious inaccuracies that other commenters have already pointed out. It's pretty obvious the point of view the author had when writing it though...I mean the attempt to try and compare Hamilton to an intersection in Toronto at the end of the piece just proves what a load of shit-talkery this whole thing really is. St. Clair and Keele? Seriously?

Before you get defensive - wouldn't you be pissed if I said: "Toronto is smaller, more pretentious version of New York or Chicago that's really insecure about its identity". Or how about, "Toronto is like Montreal, but without the beauty, art and joie-de-vivre".

Jim Curran on the CBC had the best line though - "Toronto...it's just down the road from Hamilton".


PS:
Come back for another visit and this time, bring your bike and go beyond the 6 block radius that surrounds the GO Station.



Colin / April 5, 2009 at 10:51 pm
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I have a soft spot for Hamilton. I have plenty of friends there, and perhaps knowing them has given me a better view of the city. A previous commenter mentioned the trails, and I can vouch for them, they really are quite lovely in the summertime. Hamilton might not wow you right off the mark, but I'd get someone to show you around town next time, because there is much to discover!
Jeff / April 5, 2009 at 11:28 pm
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Honestly, that was a pretty brutal article. I wish someone who had little more time to fully explore the city would write another article, and without the negative bias.
Dan D / April 5, 2009 at 11:35 pm
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I have to say although technically correct, your review of Hamilton only focuses on the downtown core which doesn't necessary represent what makes Hamilton great. It would also appear this story seems to be written with a bias of "Look how great we are compared to Hamilton", if that was your intention, mission accomplished.

There were large omissions of some fantastic architecture photos that could have really helped with showing the beauty of Hamilton, instead of focusing on the boring "70's style" architecture that largely makes up the core of Hamilton (I agree they should be updated) you opted to use the photos of boarded up stores.

If you're an active person is any way, Hamilton has 100x more to offer you then Toronto. From its local rail trail bicycle trails, to escarpment hiking, to nearby cliffs, I could only hope for something as good within the T dot.
Media Images / April 6, 2009 at 01:43 am
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I love Hamilton, one of the few close cities to Toronto that when I want a change I take a run to there. You seemed to have missed what a wonderful place it is. If you would have done some research, talked to some Hamiltonians first you would not have had such an uninformed opinion of the place. If you choose to be uninformed so be it. I am very Toronto Centric but Hamilton can be a great place to explore.
Matt L / April 6, 2009 at 02:32 am
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Here is another take on Hamilton from a Torontonian.
http://green.hyperdot.net/beautiful-hamilton
Anon / April 6, 2009 at 03:07 am
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"There isn't too much to see there on a day trip that you can't find at, say, St. Clair and Keele"

For those not familiar with the intersection of St. Clair and Keele, this is a pretty brutal statement. Apparently Hamilton consists of a McDonalds, a Home Depot, and a whole lot of traffic.
Dave / April 6, 2009 at 09:28 am
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Oh SNAP!
apetimberlake / April 6, 2009 at 10:12 am
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"St. Clair and Keele (they should rename that intersection 'Little Hamilton')"

Thats kind of an Arsehole dig at that intersection/
Gloria / April 6, 2009 at 10:59 am
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"There isn't too much to see there on a day trip that you can't find at, say, St. Clair and Keele." Ouch! I live in Toronto and haven't been to Hamilton in a decade, but even I winced at this. I find it hard to believe the author wasn't looking for a fight.
J-rock / April 6, 2009 at 12:03 pm
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I went to school in Hamilton and spent 4 very happy years there. It definitely gets a bum rap, especially from people in Toronto who invariably look at me funny when I try to describe its charms.

"There isn't too much to see there on a day trip that you can't find at, say, St. Clair and Keele": Comments like that are why the rest of the country hates us. In what is a fairly well kept secret, There's actually a lot of natural beauty in and around the city. The Botanical gardens, Cootes Paradise, and Webster's falls immediately spring to mind. In addition, the west side of the city, the Westdale neighbourhood in particular, is quite charming and about as far away from Hamilton's grimy, industrial image as one can imagine. Next time, explore a bit further than the 3 blocks surrounding the bus station, and leave the attitude in Toronto.
Ryan replying to a comment from James / April 6, 2009 at 12:58 pm
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Billy Bob's... Oh man, that place was quite the classy establishment. It closed a few years ago though and is now a paint store (or was a year ago when I last lived in Hamilton).

Hamilton does have a lot to offer, and its waterfront shouldn't be missed in an article such as this one. Mac's campus isn't downtown and gets less traffic than U of T, which makes it more appealing for students. Let's not forget Hess either; which I always enjoyed more than Billy Bob's.
Roger / April 6, 2009 at 04:04 pm
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If you're up for a day trip to Hamilton this weekend, <a href="http://www.facebook.com/event.php?eid=62297534681"; target="_blank">there's a super show</a> coming to Pepper Jack Cafe on King William St.

<a href="http://www.myspace.com/woodhands"; target="_blank">Woodhands</a> and <a href="http://www.godmademefunky.com"; target="_blank">God Made Me Funky</a> in one night. What more could you want?
Meg / April 6, 2009 at 04:42 pm
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"It's obvious the recession has battered the city; there were many large art deco buildings shuttered and closed to the public, not too mention regular storefronts."
Do your research!
david / April 7, 2009 at 01:02 pm
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Yikes! Obviously the writer is clueless...a good thing imho.:)

Hamilton is a "secret" city, and compared to Toronto, sure it seems poor.

My Dog Joe is one of my favourite coffee shops in Canada.

Other than incredible real estate bargains, Hamilton is best discovered through the photographs of Flar on Urban Toronto:

http://www.urbantoronto.ca/showthread.php?t=8917

http://www.urbantoronto.ca/showthread.php?t=8367

Over 30 different neighbourhoods photographed by Flar, I highly recommend taking a look at them!
roz replying to a comment from david / April 7, 2009 at 04:28 pm
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david, those photos are mostly just houses! unless hamilton is nothing but houses it doesnt really tell me a whole lot.......and theyre kindof making me depressed too. hamilton's not actually that bleak is it?
Heather replying to a comment from Colin / April 16, 2009 at 11:53 am
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Ditto on the soft spot. Out of all the places the "Adulty novelty" show stops at, The Hammer is my favourite cuz the people make the weekend a blast.

Plus Hess - love Hess.
Rick / May 5, 2009 at 12:58 pm
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Have a look at these pictures by Flar!

T H E - C I T Y - I N - P I C T U R E S

http://forum.skyscraperpage.com/showthread.php?t=168601

BE / May 5, 2009 at 01:20 pm
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What can you do? Lady spends an afternoon in Hamilton, walks around a few blocks, pokes around the HGA, leaves unimpressed. Situations like this are 50% responsible for the negative imagery assosciated with Hamilton (the other 50% is people driving over the skyway.)

Tourism Hamilton could learn from this article. Maybe if there were more signage everywhere pointing to interesting features. I mean, the writer walked within a block of the Farmers Market maybe if she knew it was there the article would have been more positive. She didn't even go to the waterfront... or Hess Village or Princess Point or any of the dozens of waterfalls or lookouts...
RLove / May 5, 2009 at 01:54 pm
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I love Hamilton. I guess it depends on what you want out of where you want to live. I would take the miles of hiking trails the dozens and dozens of waterfalls and the ability to get within 5 feet of wild animals and low congestion and a Hassesl free airport anyday

vs the concrete jungle urban sprawl blob of a mess that would mean a life of hassesl to get anywhere is a decent amount of time. not much nature or scenery to be found in T.O. Unless you love the fresh feeling of just poured concrete.

I guess this is why the 400 is jammed on a friday evening in the summer.

enjoy that!!!

YHM / May 5, 2009 at 11:10 pm
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"The obvious first stop was the Art Gallery of Hamilton. The building, though centrally located, is uninviting; it's one of those brutal 1970's concrete towers we have so many of in Toronto."

In case anyone is curious, here is the AGH: http://www.kpmbarchitects.com/index.asp?navid=30&;fid1=15&fid2=23


With all due respect to your grasp of all things brutal, your comment regarding the building’s aesthetics could easily be misconstrued. After all, the concrete tower that you find so objectionable is essentially invisible. From the project architect's notes:

"The opaque, fortress-like façade was transformed by a composition of boldly-scaled horizontal and vertical geometric planes defined by broad expanses of gold paneling, charcoal brick, and steel. The custom-fabricated gold corrugated steel panels consciously reference the city’s history as a steeltown, and differentiate the image of the AGH from its context of brutalist concrete and corporate office buildings."
Happy in Hamilton / September 23, 2009 at 01:40 pm
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I have been fortunate enough to live in Montreal, Edmonton, Toronto, Burlington and Hamilton. Of all of these places, Hamilton is the most unique and offers the most diversity. Until you have had a chance to live in each of these places, do you really have any right to judge one better than the other?

Every city has their good qualities and to ignore those and not look beyond the obvious, you are depriving yourself of all life has to offer. We are not judgemental in Hamilton and we all get along despite differences in social classes. If you ever need a hand, want to talk to all walks of life and remain grounded despite the hustle and bustle of every day life...Come to Hamilton. Otherwise, all who live here in this hidden gem would be happy to keep it to ourselves.
Kathy replying to a comment from James / January 22, 2010 at 08:48 am
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Sorry but Toronto is nothing like New York .I know I am a native New Yorker
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