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Restaurants

Smokin' Bones

  • Currently 3.13/5

Rating: 3.1/5 (23 votes)

Posted by Bryce Daigle / Listed on January 15, 2010 / review policy

Smokin' Bones restaurantSmokin' Bones, at Dundas and Dalhousie, is run by Orlando de Cunha - a comfort food crusader who's looking to bring classic southern dishes to Toronto. Who doesn't love comfort food? It's usually warm, rich and full of artery-clogging goodness. I guess your heart might not love it, but every once in a while you need to stop listening to those pushy arteries and just eat some ribs.

Smokin' BonesThe restaurant is currently a takeout-only affair, with the exception of stools and counter space for half a dozen customers. A delivery service is planned for the spring, which is good news for those of us who don't want to mix exercise with indulgent greasy food.

The menu features a variety of grilled meats, but I am assured by Orlando that Smokin' Bones is not strictly a barbeque spot. Indeed, the menu covers non-grilled dishes like chili, mac and cheese, meatloaf and fried chicken, with plans to add jambalaya and gumbo to the menu in the near future . Orlando has tested three recipes for Andouille sausage, but has yet to find one he's happy with.

I loaded up with as much food as can safely be carried in a paper bag and struck out into the cold, shielding my smoky cargo against the wind as I walked home. Cold is the Achilles heel of warm takeout food in the winter, so I'm hoping they get their delivery system sorted out soon.

Biscuits and corn bread (left), chicken and corn chowder (right)When I got home, my dining companion and I tore into the food, leaving a trail of barbeque sauce and Styrofoam containers in our wake.

Macaroni and cheese (left), potato salad (right)We started with the sides ($3 each). Mac and cheese was gooey, greasy and good. Baked beans were meaty and sweet - almost too sweet, but still satisfying. The potato salad was a basic, faithful rendition of the classic. The biscuits were top notch - flaky, chewy and moist - but the spongy corn bread was a bit of a letdown.

Pulled pork sandwichThe pulled pork sandwich ($6, plus $1 for coleslaw on top) was excellent. Sloppy, but excellent. The meat is tender and tastes noticeably of grill smoke, while the house barbeque sauce and coleslaw add tanginess and crunch.

The corn chowder ($6) is deceptively named, as it actually has a TON of pulled chicken in it, and not all that much corn flavour. Then again, maybe that's what I get for ordering corn soup in January.

Baby back ribs with spicy barbeque sauceI'm not usually a huge fan of baby back ribs. The ratio of effort to food obtained just never seemed worth it to me. This half rack ($12) however, won me over. The meat was tender enough to fall off the bone, and was bathed in a really tasty spicy barbeque sauce with a moderate kick and dangerous addiction potential.

It's still early days for Smokin' Bones and they have a ways to go before their operations and menu are polished, but if the quality of their barbeque is any indication of where they're headed, I'm looking forward to good things from Orlando and crew.

Chicken and corn chowder

Discussion

30 Comments

Jennifer Tse / January 15, 2010 at 12:24 pm
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I ate here on their opening day. Meat-stuffed potato with a side of pulled pork baked beans. Nearly went into a coma.

Legendary.
Joel / January 15, 2010 at 12:28 pm
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FYI "fall of the bone" means they were overcooked.
jason replying to a comment from Joel / January 15, 2010 at 01:04 pm
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FYI "Joel" doesn't know much about real barbeque, stick to grilling till you get some experience.
Sean Galbraith / January 15, 2010 at 01:39 pm
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I live across the street from the place and haven't gone yet. I should be ashamed of myself. :-(
bittles / January 15, 2010 at 01:42 pm
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i only know this from watching bbq pitmasters this week, but according to them fall off the bone is overcooked. what your looking for is a perfect bite mark in the meat. so soft enough to bit through easily and to make a mark but not coming off the .
dre / January 15, 2010 at 01:43 pm
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WTF is that white slop (pic 4)?
Terrible pictures my man.
Chenyip / January 15, 2010 at 02:00 pm
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Yes, if you OVERCOOK ribs, it will fall off the bone. But it doesn't mean that all 'fall off the bone' ribs are overcooked. It's all a matter of preference really. I've been cuing for over 4 years now and I'd have to say the perfect medium for me are ribs that just take the slightest bite to remove the meat from the bones.
Lara replying to a comment from Chenyip / January 15, 2010 at 02:29 pm
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I agree. The term 'fall of the bone' has become eponymous for that desirable rib meat texture that takes little effort to remove the meat from the bone.
cocoa / January 15, 2010 at 03:33 pm
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oh man, i love this sort of food. thanks for the heads up!
Bryce Daigle replying to a comment from dre / January 15, 2010 at 05:15 pm
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Agreed, the chicken corn chowder isn't very photogenic, but I decided to include it in the interests of documenting the meal as it actually looked.
Jason M / January 15, 2010 at 05:27 pm
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Thank god. I was worried that was the coleslaw...! I can't wait to try this place!
Prince of Ronces / January 15, 2010 at 10:48 pm
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Oh god, this place is way too close to my work. I've been trying to lose this gut.. forget it, see y'all there monday lunch.. (okay, probably tuesday too).
groonsy / January 16, 2010 at 12:04 am
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I can't wait to give Smokin' Bones a try! I personally love eating meat that falls off of the bone. This means it is moist, relaxed, and cooked slowly. Or you have the opposite, the meat comes off of the bone in one whole piece because it is as tough as leather and your teeth can't bite through it! Good on you for a job well done, now if I could just have some ribs delivered to my house in Eastern Ontario!
Eric26 / January 16, 2010 at 12:29 am
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I never got over my childhood dislike of meat that is even remotely tough, fatty or gristly so I definitely need to inhale this stuff from Smokin' Bones.
mike / January 16, 2010 at 02:37 pm
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yes, near my work...gotta check out the pulled porked sandwich!
mike / January 16, 2010 at 02:37 pm
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yes, near my work...gotta check out the pulled pork sandwich!
rapi / January 17, 2010 at 09:22 am
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halleluja...finnaly something east of yonge...dundas st. is waiting for more...
Pete / January 17, 2010 at 04:15 pm
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I grabbed a pulled pork sandwich and some mac 'n cheese a few days ago and it was bloody fantastic. The food was truly great, the service was excellent and friendly. I'm going back as often as I can. If you're nearby (or even if you have to make a trip) go there. It's brilliant.
ah123 / January 19, 2010 at 08:10 am
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A couple of weeks ago I went in and had the baked beans, fried chicken and baby back ribs. I was looking forward because I love Southern comfort food, but lament the few options here in the city. Perhaps I should chalk it up to the place being still quite new (about 2 weeks) because I was disappointed.

The beans were rich and meaty, but very coyingly sweet. When sweet is the taste that overwhelmingly dominates a dish that is supposed to have layers of flavour, it is not a good thing.

The fried chicken, on the other hand, though fresh and made to order, lacked flavour. It's as if they forgot to season it. Not to mention the thicker piece was not cooked thoroughly since there was pink meat by the bone.

Baby back ribs were never my favourite. I consider them "chain restaurant" cut, for those who like their ribs to come looking pretty and neat on the plate. So I was baffled why a down home joint would offer only that. The meat was smoky, but I kept comparing it to, for example, Phil's BBQ with juicy, tender, flavourful ribs.

I'm sure these are kinks that could be ironed out, and I wish them well. But they need to really "get down and dirty" with real Southern bbq and not make it feel like someone trying to imitate it (despite the obvious passion they have in their subject).
ah123 / January 19, 2010 at 08:11 am
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P.S. They should go try the buttermilk marinated fried chicken at Stockyards, as well as their ribs, to see how it's really done.
Brian replying to a comment from Jason M / January 19, 2010 at 11:02 am
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Hahaha, whew! I thought it was coleslaw too!
darrick baxter / February 3, 2010 at 08:50 pm
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Hate to say it but i actually miss those sangwitches!!! yummy!

dbax
andrew / February 4, 2010 at 10:29 am
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I had a combo so I tried the chicken, ribs and meatloaf. They all suffered from dry meat. Any sauces were flavorless and pasty. Potato salad was sad. Mac and cheese also. The beans were overly sweet.
steve shultz / March 11, 2010 at 08:43 am
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Overpriced! It's a joint for Torontonians and tourists who know nothing about real BBQ. Avoid.
Andrew / March 13, 2010 at 03:18 pm
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My friends and I, every saturday, like to go out and find a new, really good place to eat. A couple weekends ago we opted for smokin bones, because we love BBQ joints (e.g. Phil's) but have never had good fried chicken or other really southern style sids like bisquits and sausage gravy. It ended up being really really dissapointing, and moreso because it had so much potential. The fried chicken had batter on top of batter on top of batter, which wasn't hot or crispy, and masked the flabby, uncooked skin underneath. The shaved beef was dry and uninteresting, the beans were too sweet, and the sausage gravy was bland. The bisquits were decent, and the pulled pork was good, but so are most meats when soaking in a tub of delicious barbeque sauce.

I would venture to bet that they could produce some really good food and possibly even do. When my buddies and I went it was two young guys making the food, and perhaps that was the reason it was so s*#!. While I would love to try Smokin' Bones at its best, my one experience was such a let down that I will likely never go back, as will none of my friends.
Kirk / May 6, 2010 at 05:49 pm
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I tried this place today and it was fantastic. Great service and prices.
Pulled pork sandwich was mouthwatering.
Going back for sure.
Janet / May 13, 2010 at 11:11 am
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Smokin Bones is pretty good and a nice addition to the neighbourhood. I've had the pulled pork sandwich and a pulled pork plate a few times. Tasty, but a little too smokey.
For the tastiest BBQ, I prefer Paul and Sandy's Real BBQ in Etobicoke:
http://www.facebook.com/pages/Etobicoke-ON/Paul-and-Sandys-Real-Barbecue/305225874163
Ribs are wonderful and jalapeno cornbread is the best.
steve / August 19, 2010 at 05:23 am
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The dump's a wanna-be southern BBQ house..

I lived in Texas for 3 years......the joint does not come close to REAL BBQ...

It features small, overpriced portions.

Save your money, and buy a $4.00 slice of pizza across the street, or a burger and poutine next store for $3.99 instead...

At least its tasty, filling and affordable!
2x / January 19, 2011 at 09:57 pm
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Guys trust me on this one, just go with the pulled pork, baked beans and mac n cheese. The pulled pork is so deliciously smoky and they dredge it with sauce just like how good southern barbeque should be. Baked beans are not to sweet, they are perfect with huge chunks of meat and the mac n cheese is creamy with a nice flavour and texture. Those three things and your good, dont waste your money on the other things which are to a certain extent lacking.
Sean / January 19, 2011 at 10:13 pm
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Dead pool.

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