The staff at O Bairradino on Lansdowne tend to be brusque but efficient - don't get in their way and you will get what you want. The grilled chicken is on the dry side, but its enticingly smoky flavour lingers pleasantly on the tongue. Parisienne potatoes have a leathery, toothsome exterior but a rewardingly creamy middle. The rice is bathed in oil, but the garnish of a half-dozen black olives is a nice touch. Half-chicken platter, $10.