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Restaurants

Manpuku

  • Currently 2.76/5

Rating: 2.8/5 (38 votes)

Posted by Devon Scoble / Reviewed on March 16, 2009 / review policy

Manpuku TorontoIt's Friday night, and there's a line of hungry patrons streaming out the door of Manpuku, the new-ish Japanese eatery in the Village Grange complex. I think there's something in the Canadian psyche that makes us equate queues with quality. Not only do lines build a healthy sense of anticipation (and hunger), they channel that anticipation in an orderly, regulated fashion. Thoroughly regulated excitement? This humble line outside a Japanese restaurant may be the most Canadian thing going.

After an interminably thrilling wait (7 minutes), my companions and I are finally seated and greeted by a chipper server. Tea's on the table, and we make our orders: Curry Udon with Vegetable, Curry Udon with Beef, Kitsune Udon, Niku Udon, Takoyaki, Takosen, salad and chips.

The chips and salads arrive first, and teach us that at Manpuku, "chips" is a euphemism for "cutely packaged fried noodle bits". The noodle bits are pretty plain, and the mixed salad, topped with Italian vinaigrette and deep fried onion pieces, is tasty and tangy.manpuku

Next in line are the mains: four steaming bowls of thick ropy udon noodles in broth. The good thing about writing food reviews is that I can steal bites from my companions with impunity. Oh, was that your last fish cake? Sorry. Sometimes I just get so caught up in my work.

I sample each broth, all varied blends of savoury and sweet, and reminders that it was a Japanese scientist who first discovered the umami flavour (For hundreds of years, English words were limited to the four major flavours: sweet, salty, sour and bitter. Although tongues could taste the rich glutamate tones that make the umami, they couldn't form an exact definition for it, grasping around approximations like full, round, deep and savoury). The udons I sampled were all these things, with Curry Udon providing the strongest taste, Niku Udon strong, but less pungent, and Kitsune Udon flavourful, but mild in comparison.

Most of us agree that Curry Udon is the tastiest. It also comes with a vegetarian option, but since I chose a meat based broth for my veggie-topped noodles, I can't vouch for it here.

20 minutes later, the most interesting part of our meal arrives. Made-to-order in custom molds, Takoyaki are crispy balls of dough surrounding a dollop of octopus and topped with wide bonito flakes and Japanese mayo. We also receive Takosen, Takoyaki balls served with crispy shrimp crackers. I take a Takoyaki ball and squish it between two crackers to make my very own seafood-crispy-soft cracker-sandwich.

manpukuAlthough the blogosphere had warned me the Takoyaki at Manpuku is not up to Japanese street food standards, I came in with an open mind. The only Takoyaki I'd had previously was in Korea: closer to Japan, for sure, but still not actually Japan--so I assumed that my standards might be a bit relaxed. I can't say whether the Korean version is as good as it is in Japan, but it's definitely better than Manpuku's attempt. Where I expected a crisp outside with generous bonito flakes, and a light, soft inside with a big piece of octopus, Manpuku's Takoyaki are heavy, doughy, lightly garnished and accompanied by only the merest hint of tentacle. With strong tones of seafood and salt, crispy skins and sweet mayonnaise, Manpuku's Takoyaki treats are worth trying, but may disappoint former inhabitants of Japan.

Reasonably priced, and serving tasty simple dishes, a meal at Manpuku is definitely worth a 12-15 minute wait in line. Any more, and I'd try another day.

Discussion

38 Comments

yammy / January 8, 2009 at 02:47 pm
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This is honestly one of the best modern japanese spots in T.O. However, most don't like the takoyaki.despite its interesting appeal. It does take some time to make, and they make it fresh every order (about 10-15min). The U-don is quite good, and for a $1.50 extra they will give you a refill of noodles if your not full. I have to say amidst all the grandeur of sushi rolls, and tempura, this is a very fresh idea when it comes to showcasing japanese fast food. The only other Manpuku I know of is in the centre of Tokyo. I believe this sort of a take on that.

NOTE: Be prepared to wait for your food, despite the fact that it is supposed to be fast food. Most japanese wait considerable time anyway for their food in Japan. Also remember to say hello to the staff, they work very hard to make it special. Lunch time is super busy.
Bob replying to a comment from yammy / January 8, 2009 at 05:43 pm
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Ummm..."modern Japanese"? I don't get it. There's nothing modern about their food. I agree it's a cheap joint, but that's about it. Their quality is bad, but what do you expect for the price?! Anyway, most customers going here don't give a damn about that, so I guess it's not that important. In terms of their takoyaki: where's the tako?! It's just dough and tiny bits of tako. I suspect it's bought frozen, too, much like most of their menu.

If you want more JPN "fast food", they're better restaurants out there.

Also, Japanese folks don't wait a considerable amount of time for their fast food. I don't know where in Japan you went.
Bob replying to a comment from yammy / January 8, 2009 at 05:48 pm
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Yammy: you work for Manpuku, don't you?
Joe replying to a comment from Bob / January 8, 2009 at 08:21 pm
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What exactly is it that demonstrates bad quality? and show me some better JPN fast food, cuz I'd like to try it. If u consider Japanese fast food burgers and fries, then no, Japanese folks don't wait a considerable amount of time. But for the good stuff in Tokyo, I know I waited.

I've found Manpuku very satisfying amid all the other crappy "Japanese" restaruants in Toronto.
Ted / January 8, 2009 at 09:59 pm
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I love this place! I eat their Yakionigiri at least twice a week.

Bob, what better japanese fast food places are there? I certinly cant think of anything that comes close in this city.
Mike replying to a comment from Bob / January 14, 2009 at 02:24 pm
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Asides from sushi, ramen and bento boxes, I don't know of any other kind of Japanese fast foods commonly available in Toronto. Most of the better places are in sit-down restaurants that will put a large dent in my wallet if I decide to eat there.

I've been to Manpuku many times and I don't see your rationale behind the 'bad quality' food there. I find the food quite enjoyable and the wait times are usually fairly quick unless it's busy (which happens often) but just shows that many others share my opinion of their food as well.

As for the takoyaki, I find the size of the tako is fair without making it too pricey. I disagree with your comment about it being frozen as they do have an authentic takoyaki machine which you can see by the bar and you can watch them pour in the batter and place the tako into it.

If you do have any recommendations about any better Japanese fast food places then please mention them on here. However, I still find that Manpuku gives the best bang for your buck!
Jo / January 21, 2009 at 11:53 pm
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I ate there once and had a bland seaweed soup with udon that wasn't very hot. I don't eat meat (but I eat seafood) and so I looked for veggie/fish options on the menu but there weren't any to choose from. I'm sure the other food they serve is good, but it's just not for me. What is "tatoyaki?"
fani / January 30, 2009 at 09:37 am
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The udon was pretty bland. The takoyaki was relatively good except for the fact that there's BARELY any octopus meat in it. It just tasted like bread-dough topped with Kewpie mayo, katsuoboshi and the brown sauce. I felt so cheated especially because I made a special trip to go to Manpuku.

There are other non-tempura/non-sushi Japanese restaurants run by Japanese Canadians. Manpuku isn't the only choice.
Paul / February 4, 2009 at 03:38 pm
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This place provides good, cheap eats, but I wouldn't go in there with super high expectations. I don't expect foie gras and caviar from Burrito Boyz either.

I agree about the takoyaki though. I think it's freshly made, but the one time I ordered it there was way too much batter and just tiny tiny bits of octopus. Not very satisfying.

But the noodles I thought were fine, and for a really good price too. Much better than most fast food in that range, anyway.
nnn / February 19, 2009 at 02:28 am
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I LOVE stopping by here after class. Price is good and the menu is nice and concise. Perfect for a cold winter day.
soloista / March 13, 2009 at 11:52 am
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Yes! Yes! Japanese street food!
J-rock / March 16, 2009 at 01:11 pm
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The food, especially the cheap izakaya-type fare, is probably what I miss most about living in Japan. Does this place do yakitori?
chenyip / March 16, 2009 at 01:30 pm
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Ok, anyone who is from, lived in, or been to Japan for a considerable amount of time will love this place.

When I got back from being in Tokyo, I dearly missed having fast-food Japanese curry (even the curry at Yoshinoa in Tokyo was better than anything i had in Toronto).

Then a friend told me of Manpuku.

I bolted over there and ordered - well - the curry. Killer. Just like I remember in Japan. Since then, I've been back and ordered everything else.

Now, Manpuku isn't going to win any Peter Beard awards, but lets be honest, they're not out to achieve that. They are bringing homemade, cheap, Japanese fast food to a market where "Japanese food" equates with sushi and teriyaki. And I don't think a lot of Torontonians get that - that this type of Japanese food is far more ubiquitous in Tokyo than a 7 course omakase. Well that and ramen.

Like I said, if you have ever been to Japan, Manpuku is sure to bring back memories. And based on that alone, I'd keep going back.

PS: For what it's worth, all of my Japanese friends (some which recently immigrated from Japan and some of which are Canadian born) love Manpuku because it reminds them of.....(insert memory here).


J-rock replying to a comment from chenyip / March 16, 2009 at 01:49 pm
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That's EXACTLY what I wanted to hear. I miss stopping in at the local after work, grabbing a couple of "nama-birus' and chowing down on some good, cheap eats. I'll be heading over there this week.
chenyip replying to a comment from J-rock / March 16, 2009 at 02:15 pm
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J-rock: If you get the chance, try meeting/talking to Sid (the owner). Young Japanese guy. He's been musing with trying to bring in some of the more - for lack of a better word - indie beers, shochu and sake. They have a pretty standard selection of Japanese beers but eh, I don't mind.
daniel. / March 16, 2009 at 02:24 pm
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awesome place and i hate japanese food
Sal2469428 / March 16, 2009 at 03:18 pm
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When I feel like good traditional Japanese cheap eats in the city (Not Takoyaki mind you). I usually hit up Okonomi (Across from the Manulife Centre). Place has been around since the late 70's and it's still the bomb!!!

I'm headed for Tokyo again in April. Amazing street Takoyaki here I come!!!
J-rock / March 16, 2009 at 03:23 pm
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Not to delve too deeply into the regional politics of Japan, but there are many people, specifically those from the Kansai area, who would scoff at the idea of going to Tokyo for Takoyaki. Osaka takes that stuff very seriously.
tamago replying to a comment from chenyip / March 16, 2009 at 03:27 pm
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This place is overrated.

I'm Japanese and most of my other Japanese friends would never go back. The food's mediocre at best.
chenyip replying to a comment from tamago / March 16, 2009 at 03:49 pm
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Well we all have our preferences.

I'm Jamaican and you wouldn't catch me dead in a handful of Caribbean spots in Toronto. But does that mean they are "garbage" or that unanimously everyone should dislike them? I would hope not. I don't consider myself the utmost authority on Jamaican food. And likewise, I doubt anyone considers you or your friends the authority on Japanese food.

Take it for what it's worth: My Japanese friends like it and your Japanese friends don't. While we're at it, I bet I can piss farther than you.
tamgo replying to a comment from chenyip / March 16, 2009 at 04:16 pm
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chenyip: It's funny, because I seem to recall you saying the following: "all of my Japanese friends (some which recently immigrated from Japan and some of which are Canadian born) love Manpuku".

Doesn't this imply that your Japanese friends have a certain degree of authority on Japanese food? If you didn't think so, then you wouldn't be using this to back up your point about Manpuku.

However, when someone else (me) uses the same line, you challenge their (my Japanese friends) opinion.

So, which is it, chenyip?
joe / March 16, 2009 at 04:56 pm
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it's entertaining to see how passionate people are about this place. it may not be the best quality (c'mon they're in a food court across from a college), but the bottom line is they're just about always busy which says something about their value.

quality product, friendly staff, fair price.
Elle Driver replying to a comment from tamgo / March 16, 2009 at 07:27 pm
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Well, if we're going to nitpick here, then how about the nay-sayers recommend some "non-mediocre" Japanese fast food places?

I'm all for open discussions about food, but vague and unhelpful comments like "this place sucks" doesn't add to the discussion.
Peter G / March 16, 2009 at 07:34 pm
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I lived in Oosaka for two years. It's famous for the takoyaki, which is served out of fast food windows all over the place. The brown blobs in the photo look nothing like the dumplings I know. I discovered this restaurant in winter, and am curious about whether they offer a range of basics/cheapies, like 'chicken don' or a decent tonkatsu. Sashimi and faux bento in Toronto are not at all similar to what people eat on a daily basis in Japan.
Jerrold / March 16, 2009 at 10:24 pm
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I did a two year stint in Japan as well. I've been dying for some cheap J-curry in this city. I'll give it a next time I'm in the area, for sure.
chenyip replying to a comment from tamgo / March 17, 2009 at 10:49 am
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Hey tamago: No i don't think my friends are any authority really. Kind of why i prefaced it with a "for what it's worth...". Some people seem to think that a restaurant that wins the hearts of ex-pats or people of said culture means it's good. When really, that's kind of horse shit. Just because I'm Canadian, does that mean my taste in poutine is better than any other Canadian? Or that I'm automatically an authority on Canadian beers?

And really, I wasn't even arguing that it's the best Japanese fast food around. I was simply saying that some of my Japanese friends like it because it brings back/up fond memories. And if that's what you like in a cheap food shop, then perhaps this place is worthy of a visit.

Soooo. I guess what it boils down to is that some people like this place, and some don't. Nature of the beast I suppose.
Eric / March 17, 2009 at 11:17 pm
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Thanks for the article!
I had no idea that there was a Veg option for Curry Udon!

I'll be definitely going for that next time!
mark / March 24, 2009 at 12:30 pm
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I hope one of you went to the chinatown street festival last year... they had a Takoyaki booth! I must say, it was much better than the Takoyaki at Manpuku - could have been a bad batch, but I wasn't that impressed.
yammy / June 8, 2009 at 11:17 pm
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I don't work for manpuku, and I am aware there are better places, but I think thats obvious considering the cost of the food..however, where else can you find takoyaki in toronto..from what I know...nowhere else. I tried a bunch of places I go to often enough..but no they don't do it. Also what I meant by modern japanese was really the fact that in "toronto" most people who have never left here, or have never been to Japan would actually be able to catch up on what Japan does that they would consider modern fare. You sorta have to read between the lines Bob. And I have been all over Japan, and it takes time everywhere in considering how many people live there. Bob, your so negative...Maybe you need to have an Ochazuke.
Tim / June 18, 2009 at 02:32 pm
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I'm a fan. Good prices. Good food.
Chris replying to a comment from Bob / July 15, 2009 at 01:43 am
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This "Bob" person is very obviously a troll as per his disappearance. This place definitely gets two thumbs up from me. Always fills you up and at such a cheap price. I'm sure if they opened up anywhere else their menu would be at least $1 more expensive but here they have to compete with the other Grange "fast food" joints.

Their takoyaki definitely doesn't have as much tako as you'll find in Japan, but for people who aren't that crazy about octopus this is definitely a good thing and from the many times I've eaten there I can see it's a popular item among both Japanese and non-Japanese customers.

Most notable dishes I've had there were the curry udon and shigure don.
LanternBell / August 11, 2009 at 11:57 pm
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I've been to Manpuku a couple times with friends (as they insisted) and unfortunately, I will be one of the commentators with a bad review of it. Their service is always rather terrible since I usually to wait over half an hour to get our food (only after reminding the waiters they've forgotten our order may I add). I find their portions pretty small and their udon noodle soup overly bland. I admit their curry beef is good but the amount in the udon is negligible. I was also surprised to find that they served onigiri you could buy from asian supermarkets instead of making them by hand (for handmade onigiri, I suggest Bloom's cafe on Baldwin) and their takoyaki lacked the squid and lacked the crunch that the outer layer should have.
Sayaka / August 22, 2009 at 02:36 am
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First of all I believe that after reading these reviews that most people believe their own taste sets the standard, but i think all restaurants out there try their best to make the customer appreciate their foods. Therefore I do not believe negative comments are necessary but rather suggestions would be more helpful, and if the owners of the restaurant are reading they can see what people want to see improved. I also believe that there are many different variants of any cooking and that is what makes each store unique. In Japan there are many takoyaki stores in Osaka and no two stores taste the same. These are necessary becuase not everybody has the same tongue, for some who may think this is "best takoyaki" some may feel it is "terrible". I feel it is best if people could share their happy experiences, because i read this blog to find places i may want to try, not read about people complaints or fighting. As for myself I tried manpuku takoyaki and i enjoyed it personally and I think I will go and try their other dishes in the future.
Gabe / August 22, 2009 at 12:05 pm
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ok I just got back and i'm really pissed off. Yes, it's good food, good prices and great service. But come on, this is the second time now that they can't seem to follow their own schedule. I went there friday and their hours were 10 am to 11 pm. It was 11:15 am and they were still closed! I go there today and their hours on Saturday is 11 am to 11 pm. I had plans to take my friends there as I would always talk to them about the place. It was 11:30 and it's closed, heck, there wasnt even anyone inside that was preparing anything. I used to love this place but now it's pissed me off twice...not coming there again.
peter replying to a comment from Gabe / October 20, 2009 at 01:21 pm
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Gabe, check their hours on their website: http://www.manpuku.ca/
you're off on both counts
peter replying to a comment from Gabe / October 20, 2009 at 01:25 pm
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As for the food itself, it's really good @ a great price. The curry udon was really good, the yakionigiri was ok but nothing spectacular. I also stole some of the niku udon from my pops and the broth was sooo good, definitely trying that next time. And i'll give the takoyaki a shot next time too....
Gabe replying to a comment from peter / October 20, 2009 at 10:56 pm
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They may have a different hours on their website but that wasnt what was listed on their front door.
fabavg / March 5, 2012 at 11:02 pm
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This is one of our favourite restaurants; we go nearly every week to get our fill of the Niku Udon. I go for the Pork with a $1.10 noodle refill right away; my husband the Beef and he orders two each time. Love the red spice seasoning that comes with the noodles. I would love to try other dishes, but the Niku Udon is so good...I can never stray!

Service is always fast, and Sake (sp - one of the owners) always remembers us and our orders which is nice. Prices are very reasonable. Cozy which is nice, but can get busy - but the wait is never too long. Love this place!

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